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Lucas RF95 Blowing Fuses
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
Posts: 3804
Location: The Somerset Levels

PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 3:08 pm    Post subject: Lucas RF95 Blowing Fuses Reply with quote

I have a 1947 Hillman Minx that I have just got back on the road after some 5-6 years in the garage. The car starts/runs fine and all the electrics work, ie trafficators/horn/wipers/lights etc when on tickover. But as soon as the car is driven the fuse for the horn/trafficator blows Crying or Very sad , but everything else still works. I am no expert on auto electrics but have worked through the earths (I would presume that these are fine as everything works on tickover?) so I am thinking it may have something to do with the contacts? Has anyone got any ideas?
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
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Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Rootes,

Welcome to the forum.

The wiring for the horn and trafficators goes down the centre of the steering column and comes out at the front of the steering box. I suspect that you may have an intermittent short at the point of exit from the box.

Failing that you may have a short within the steering wheel hub, beneath the horn/trafficator switches.

To withdraw the switch assembly (manette) you need to release cable at the steering box then slacken the grub screws around the steering wheelhub and pull it towards you. The pipe that carries the cable is in two parts with the upper part slotted into the lower part so you need the slots to line up when reassembling. This pipe ensures that the horn and trafficator switches don't revolve with the steering wheel. The pipe/tube is anchored at the point where the wires exit at the front of the steering box.

Peter
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Last edited by peter scott on Tue Apr 30, 2013 5:21 pm; edited 2 times in total
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47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1480
Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds like a cable has rubbed through it's unsulation and is shorting to the body /chassis. You should do an eyeball on the harness anywhere it comes in contact with chassis. Another thing you could do is separate the wires (if there is more than one) at the fusebox. This could give you a clue as to where to look.

Art
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
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Location: The Somerset Levels

PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys.

Funny you mention the steering column Peter, I have just recently had the whole lot apart as I have had to reduce the play in the steering. The whole stator tube ect was withdrawn and when re-fitted all new connectors from column wires to the main loom were fitted. What I shall do is go back through the connectors and look for any obvious signs of wear/rubing/shorting etc.
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 22438
Location: UK

PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I suppose if you disconnect/isolate any feeds in to the column, and you're able to take it for a spin without blowing a fuse, you've narrowed the search down considerably.

It'd be interesting to see the Minx sometime, welcome aboard.

RJ
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My thought though would be if it were a short or something like that would it not blow the fuse straight away? I can leave the car idling for 10 mins and it all works but as soon as I put my foot down to pull away it blow the fuse.
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
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Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think Rick's suggestion is your best bet.

Wires can easily remain isolated until a little vibration or disturbance of the steering causes them to make contact and short.

Peter
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Penman



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
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Location: Swindon, Wilts.

PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
Rootes75 wrote:
My thought though would be if it were a short or something like that would it not blow the fuse straight away? I can leave the car idling for 10 mins and it all works but as soon as I put my foot down to pull away it blow the fuse.


I don't know this particular model, but could the action of moving the accelerator pedal cause some part of the linkage from pedal to carb move against part of the wiring loom, where there might be broken insulation, and thus cause an overload?
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
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Location: The Somerset Levels

PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After working back through the wiring connections at the base of the steering column I found that one of the connectors from the horn back into the main loom was a little loose.

After replacing the crimp and tightening it up I fitted a new fuse and to my relief after a short trip out round town the fuse and all the electricas were still operating!

Thanks guy for all your suggestions & advise. I'm glad I didn't go down the route of stripping the voltage regulator!
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47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
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Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fuses are independant of the voltage regulator and are there to keep things compact and covenient.

Art
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
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Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Rootes,

I'm sorry but I don't think a loose connection would blow your fuses unless the connector could also short to some other metalwork.

So you may have inadvertently sorted the problem just by moving the wires but I suspect that you haven't actually prevented a recurrence.

That said, I think you can probably assume that you don't need to touch your control box (voltage regulator etc).

Peter
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
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Location: The Somerset Levels

PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Peter.

The crimp that I found loose on one of the horn wires had worked itself so loose that a very small section, less that 5mm I'd say would touch back against the horn bracket. I presume that it only occured when the car vibrated a lot rather than tickover. Due to the compact nature of the wiring coming out of the end of the steering box it looks fairly easy that if a wire were loose it would touch something else at some point under mvoement/vibration.

We took it to a show about 15 miles away today and I can say that its all working fine now.

Its a shame, its all come about by a previous owners attempts at re-wiring. All wires were replaced by wire of one colour and many connections had no crimps or bullet connectors etc so many were broken or had worked themselves loose.
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
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Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rootes75 wrote:

The crimp that I found loose on one of the horn wires had worked itself so loose that a very small section, less that 5mm I'd say would touch back against the horn bracket.


Ah! That sounds good!

Peter
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
Posts: 3804
Location: The Somerset Levels

PostPosted: Wed Jun 19, 2013 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After a month or two of running fine its gone and b****y done it again! Will have to investigate again. Embarassed
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