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Miken
Joined: 24 Dec 2012 Posts: 544
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Posted: Sun May 25, 2014 11:08 pm Post subject: cylinder head studs |
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I have been cleaning up the bare cylinder block for my Morris prior to reassembly and i notice that some of the threaded holes for the cylinder head studs break through into the water jacket gallery.
This is not a problem but i was wondering what would be a suitable sealant or lubricant to put on the studs for reassembly to stop corrosion and maybe leakage.
The studs were extremely difficult to remove and I don't want to find that they have rusted solid in the block if I ever have to take them out again.
I was thinking maybe silicone grease or Hylomar.
Suggestions welcomed
Thanks, Mike |
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goneps
Joined: 18 Jun 2013 Posts: 601 Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted: Mon May 26, 2014 1:17 am Post subject: |
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Mike,
Loctite 243 (nut lock), but thoroughly clean both male and female threads first. This is a common problem, at least with the Eight. The studs have broken through because in the past they've been tightened down too hard to stop them unscrewing with the nuts. Loctite overcomes that problem, and seals the threads.
From your remarks it sounds likely that the studs are old and have been stretched. At the very least they will have suffered from countless heating/cooling cycles. I strongly recommend you obtain new studs, but whatever you do, don't buy the stainless steel ones advertised on eBAy. Common stainless grades are totally unsuitable for this application.
In the case of the Morris Eight I should think Ian Harris could supply new studs, failing which they're simple enough to make from ordinary M10 x 1.5mm bolts by cutting off the head and threading the other end with a die. Zinc plated high tensile bolts (Metric class 8.8 ) are the most suitable.
Richard |
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Miken
Joined: 24 Dec 2012 Posts: 544
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Posted: Mon May 26, 2014 8:38 am Post subject: |
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Thanks Richard ,
I will try Loctite.
You are correct in thinking that the studs are rather tired and i have purchased and intended making new ones from 5/16" dia. EN16. Which is what IH gets his made from.
But on reflection HT bolts may be a better source of material.
This is for a 1933 Minor
MN |
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Jim.Walker
Joined: 27 Dec 2008 Posts: 1229 Location: Chesterfield
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Posted: Mon May 26, 2014 11:50 am Post subject: |
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I'm not very knowledgable about these engines, though I know some early Morris cars had METRIC components.
But with Mike talking Metric and you MN talking Imperial, someone is VERY wrong.
And NEVER the twain should meet!! _________________ Quote from my late Dad:- You only need a woman and a car and you have all the problems you
are ever likely to want". Computers had not been invented then! |
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ajlelectronics
Joined: 04 Oct 2010 Posts: 168 Location: Gloucester
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goneps
Joined: 18 Jun 2013 Posts: 601 Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted: Tue May 27, 2014 3:25 am Post subject: |
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Jim.Walker wrote: | I know some early Morris cars had METRIC components. |
Morris engines used Metric threads from c.1919, when Hotchkiss engines replaced White and Poppe motors as supply of the latter dried up. Morris subsequently took over Hotchkiss' Coventry factory, and continued using the Metric machine tools right up until being absorbed into BMC.
To save British mechanics from having to splash out on a set of Metric spanners, Morris instructed its fastener supplier (most likely GKN) to supply nuts and bolts with Metric threads but Whitworth/BSF hexagons. This is sometimes referred to as "Morris' Mad Metric", but the above shows there was method in the madness.
Many (but not all) Morris gearbox threads of the period were also Metric.
Richard |
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Miken
Joined: 24 Dec 2012 Posts: 544
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Posted: Wed May 28, 2014 5:00 pm Post subject: |
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.[/quote]
Morris engines used Metric threads from c.1919, when Hotchkiss engines replaced White and Poppe motors as supply of the latter dried up. Morris subsequently took over Hotchkiss' Coventry factory, and continued using the Metric machine tools right up until being absorbed into BMC.
quote]
So why is my 1933 Minor all BSF? |
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