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geonot
Joined: 23 Sep 2008 Posts: 53 Location: edinburgh
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Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 3:24 pm Post subject: Non Insulated round crimped cable terminal |
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Hi
Any ideas were I could get some connectors similar to the one in the picture below? - I have tried most of the internet suppliers, but no luck.
It has a locating tab and the hole is 3mm in diameter.
What is the "technical/trade" name of the terminal in the picture? - To make easier for a novice like me to describe it over the telephone
Any help appreciated.
[img][/img] |
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D4B
Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 2083 Location: Hampshire UK
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Bitumen Boy
Joined: 26 Jan 2012 Posts: 1735 Location: Above the snow line in old Monmouthshire
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Roger-hatchy
Joined: 07 Dec 2007 Posts: 2135 Location: Tiptree, Essex
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Bitumen Boy
Joined: 26 Jan 2012 Posts: 1735 Location: Above the snow line in old Monmouthshire
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Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 5:59 pm Post subject: |
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Another possibility, if the tag is esssential but extra thickness doesn't matter, is to file down the crimp section of one terminal to form the tag then solder it together back to back with another, intact one. Won't be the prettiest thing in the world but should do the trick. |
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Old Wrench
Joined: 23 Dec 2013 Posts: 226 Location: Essex and France
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Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 9:36 pm Post subject: |
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Logically, I am unable to comprehend the reasoning behind this?
A ring terminal can be made extremely secure, by using an aircraft locking washer.
What is critical with any terminal and/or connection, is to ensure excellent contact; bad face contact creates what is called High Contact Point Resistance.
Just because cars use 12 volt or older cars, 6 volt electrical systems, creates a sort of false comfort zone!
To illustrate: a 60 watt load (headlamp) operating at 12 volts creates a FIVE AMP current. a 60 watt bulb in a 230 volts mains circuit demands just .260 amps.
If the OP really wants to replicate the original, then use an asymmetric lock washer with three tabs.
More sensibly, ensure there are good plain washers either side of the ring terminal to pull the terminal down square on the stud and use an aircraft locking washer.
If a Wright Cyclone radial aircraft engine in a B25 didn't shake em loose............ |
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geonot
Joined: 23 Sep 2008 Posts: 53 Location: edinburgh
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Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 10:28 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for all your comments.
The terminal is from one of the wires( there are four) going into the horn/indicator switch on the centre of the steering wheel on my Thames 400e- I am thinking that the locating lug is there because of the rotation of the steering wheel and the fixed nature of the wires, thus preventing any movement of the lug.
May be need to try a normal lug with serrated washers top and bottom and introduce some fuses encase any wiring lug fails - can live without the signals and a horn if it happens during a journey- but not the possibility of arcing wiring and a melted loom or fire! |
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peter scott
Joined: 18 Dec 2007 Posts: 7118 Location: Edinburgh
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Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 11:04 am Post subject: |
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Wiring within steering wheel manettes should see no movement what so ever. The manette itself is clamped at the foot of the column and whilst the moving part of the column rotates the inner tube that contains the wiring is always static. Likewise the horn and indicator switches are held static and all the wiring is contained within.
Peter
p.s. Of course none of the above is true if the clamp at the foot of the column is not holding the stator tube as was the case in my big sister's Ford Prefect. It was with some trepidation that I obeyed the order of my car driving examiner when he said "You can stop using hand signals now and use the trafficators!"
He no doubt saw me winding the the switch around the steering wheel until the cables were tight enough to permit the switch to click on (or off) but he said nothing and passed me. _________________ http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon |
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