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Adjusting clutch
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Dave1948



Joined: 26 Sep 2014
Posts: 7
Location: Durban

PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 11:05 am    Post subject: Adjusting clutch Reply with quote

Hi there......Can anyone tell me the easy way (if there is one) to adjust the clutch on a 1948 Ford Prefect.
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Old Wrench



Joined: 23 Dec 2013
Posts: 226
Location: Essex and France

PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

From distant memory, Dave, the clutch is operated by an adjustable rod, between the pedal and the release bearing axle shaft.

If so, then it is simply a matter of extending/reducing the rod's screwed ends.
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Well, apart from that, did you enjoy the play, Mrs Lincoln?
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Dave1948



Joined: 26 Sep 2014
Posts: 7
Location: Durban

PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 7:10 am    Post subject: Old wrench Reply with quote

Thanks for your help......quite a mission to get to, but will win!
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The pressure plate is a three paddle affair, where each of the paddles transferring the thrust to the spring plate, are adjustable.
Where the Morgan uses the Ford 10hp engine, a common after-market tweak, is to drill a hole in the bellhousing, that aligns with the adjusters, big enough to get a socket through, to be able to adjust the clutch 'in-situ'. The hole is filled with a suitable size rubber grommet to stop transfer of grunge.
Whilst I am not advocating this is the normal way of adjusting the clutch, as I feel sure the clutch fork, or connecting rods will have some adjustment in them, this is a thought for those who have found they have no adjustment available.
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KA

Better three than four.
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Old Wrench



Joined: 23 Dec 2013
Posts: 226
Location: Essex and France

PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perfectly acceptable service Mod, Ka.

Similarly, where drum brakes had those nasty square ended pegs which operated a cone shaped spreader, the tweak then was to drill two 1/2" holes in the drum (grease on the tip of the drill to collect swarf) - and remembering the two holes are to restore dynamic balance - and spray releasing agent onto the spreader thread and leave it ease. Rubber bungs to prevent ingress of dust and water.

They invariably rusted and seized up and the square bits became rounded.
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2014 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know I am now digressing but, when I converted the brakes from SLS, to TLS, the main item I struggled over was the snail adjuster, in the end making them from repair washers. The cutting of the washer was not the issue, nor alignment, but finding some bolt, or pivot mechanism to be able to turn the snail, without it becoming over tight, or loosening. In the end the use of a spring washer sorted it, and slimmed nuts locked against each other to provide security, and maintain the tension on the washer.
I would be interested if there are any other ideas or views?
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KA

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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2014 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The trouble with the nasty little square adjusters is that people try to adjust them with open ended spanners so they quickly become rounds rather than squares. You must use a proper square key on them. That said, snail cams are just a horrible way of adjusting shoes anyway. A nice screwed taper/wedge with a decent sized square adjuster gives no trouble at all.

Peter


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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for this, but this is an adjuster for single leading shoe brakes. Morgan originally used (on the F Types) the Girling system, with the sliding wedge to pull the shoes apart. Works reasonably well but requires lots of maintenance to keep them working, but almost impossible to balance.
Anyone any thoughts on Snails?
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KA

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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not just for SLS..


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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cracking photo, can you show a pic of the bottom half, and how the wheel cylinder pushes the leading shoe, and how the trailing is anchored and the leverage arm actuated?
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KA

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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The trailing expander tappet doesn't push on the shoe directly. It only pushes on the lower bell crank and that pushes the strut and in turn the upper bell crank thus giving TLS. The thing described as a contact plate is static in the housing and only forms the pivot point for the lower end of the shoe.

Peter


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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is really interesting, looking at the picture, the leading shoe is anchored at the trailing edge/expander end, and the expander movement is used to work the mechanism at the leading end of the shoe, opting the expander at the adjuster end, I have always believed nothing is new, and if you dig hard enough, it will have been invented before!

Thanks for this, it has set the grey matter running.
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KA

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