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Cellulose vs Two Pack for a Classic Car?
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Rich5ltr



Joined: 28 Mar 2008
Posts: 678
Location: Hampshire, UK

PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 2:42 pm    Post subject: Cellulose vs Two Pack for a Classic Car? Reply with quote

I asked this question on Pistonheads but thought I'd ask here too as I am interested in all opinions.

I muscling up to a bare metal repaint for the Aston (1958 burgundy red, not metallic) and I want to know what people think of using 2K on older cars. I understand the lacquer is more like glass but I've also read that you can add a slight flatting agent to the it to get the same look as cellulose.

What are your thoughts and experiences from those who've done either?

p.s. I will be using a specialist body shop to do the work, not doing it myself... Wink


Last edited by Rich5ltr on Wed Nov 26, 2014 6:24 pm; edited 1 time in total
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4104
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

I have used both, but only use 2k these days, if you look at the thread on my MGA Restoration the entire car is painted in 2k.

Parking the safety stuff for a moment, 2k has a number of advantages, for me the 3 important one's are:

1) Coverage; needs less coats than celly, and in the home workshop this means less chance of paint contamination.

2) Runs and orange peel (the 2 most common faults) can normally be rectified without adding more paint.

3) it does a better job of covering very minor defects than celly.

Most painters apply a base coat followed by a clear coat, this is what can give the plasticly look, I get the paint made up as a solid colour (ie the gloss is in the paint) because on a older car it better resembles celly, and I don't have to paint 2 coats (increased contamination in the home workshop) A matting agent can be added to reduce the gloss right down to a matt finish if required (paint supplier will advise how much to use for desired effect, or will mix it in the paint for you) I have only used it for chassis and suspension components where I wanted a "factory" black satin look.

One disadvantages of 2k is the overspray / mist that seems to cover everything, investment in polythene sheets to cover everything in the workshop is a must.

Safety wise, 2k can kill... it contains arsenic Shocked ...there are "28 day" disposable masks, but frankly you only get one pair of lungs and the £250 investment in an air fed mask and proper filters is IMHO a small price to pay even if its just one respray Smile

Cheers

Dave
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Rich5ltr



Joined: 28 Mar 2008
Posts: 678
Location: Hampshire, UK

PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's really interesting Dave, I hadn't realised you could mix the colour "solid2 so to speak and not use lacquer. Smile
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peppiB



Joined: 30 Jun 2008
Posts: 686
Location: Newcastle upon Tyne

PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 10:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

2k hardener contains poisonous isocyanate, and can be deadly. Nowadays however you can get 1k converter which turns the paint from chemically cured to air dried and eliminates the risk of cyanide poisoning. It dries glossy and does not need a lacquer coat.
I have no connection with the firm, but Jawell paints in the midlands mix my 2k paint
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Old Wrench



Joined: 23 Dec 2013
Posts: 226
Location: Essex and France

PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ukdave2002 wrote:


Safety wise, 2k can kill... it contains arsenic Shocked ...there are "28 day" disposable masks, but frankly you only get one pair of lungs and the £250 investment in an air fed mask and proper filters is IMHO a small price to pay even if its just one respray Smile

Cheers

Dave


Also remembering to move the compressor outside, or the air intake is sucking in the overspray and then you are breathing in in a tiny enclosed area.........
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ajlelectronics



Joined: 04 Oct 2010
Posts: 168
Location: Gloucester

PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lots of misinformation about 2K. Firstly, it doesn't contain Cyanide. Isocyanates are not Cyanide. First time I have heard the Arsenic idea too, but will need to double check. However, I don't think it does.

It is true that Isocyanates can be dangerous, apparently even in small quantities. The danger is in the hardener, not the paint or the thinners. When sprayed, the isocyanates become airborne and that is when you are likely to be at risk.

Safe working is with an air fed mask and coverall. There are some non air fed masks that claim to be for 2K, but you will never know the truth of that unless you take the risk. As far as I know, no UK mask or filter manufacturer in this country will recommend a non air fed mask for 2K exposure. One of the reasons is that with air fed, you always have positive pressure. With a conventional mask, the fit can be imperfect and you will be breathing in the mist.
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Old Wrench



Joined: 23 Dec 2013
Posts: 226
Location: Essex and France

PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 7:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Cellulose vs Two Pack for a Classic Car? Reply with quote

Rich5ltr wrote:
I asked this question on Pistonheads but thought I'd ask here too as I am interested in all opinions.

I muscling up to a bare metal repaint for the Aston (1958 burgundy red, not metallic) and I want to know what people think of using 2K on older cars. I understand the lacquer is more like glass but I've also read that you can add a slight flatting agent to the it to get the same look as cellulose.

What are your thoughts and experiences from those who've done either?


I presume your car is a DB2/4.

Aluminium body.

Point one, why strip back to bare metal?

This means that you will be removing all the filler coats: if you look carefully along the side of a badly painted classic (Rolls Silver Shadows in particular), by "Shooting" the perspective from a crouched position, then it will look like a contour map of the South Downs!

Poorly and incorrectly prepped cars can easily also be seen as they overtake you.

Your Aston is a handbuilt "Coachbuilt" car.

Furthermore it is worth significant capital!

Let me ask a question: if you were fortunate enough to own a Thomas Chippendale secretaire, say and it was a little tired and needed refinishing, would you slap on a coat of Ronson Polyurethane? Or seek out a skilled french polisher?

I always compare paint finishes to a decent bit of mahogany furniture: french polish has amazing depth and highlights the grain structure.

Cellulose, on hand built cars does precisely the same thing; the depth creates a wonderful deep finish.

If you do decide to strip back to bare metal, then you must start refinishing using a twin pack etching primer to guarantee adhesion.

Then build up from there.

The standard method is to start using synthetic paint, build up and spray a very thin gloss finish as a guide coat; this is "Blocked Off" (wet flatted with a block) to show the high spots, which are then built up.

After sufficient build, then the next step is cellulose Primer-Surfacer.

I always next, made up my own coat finish, which was a mix of grey primer-surfacer and 25% gloss to universally cover the whole car and prevent bases coats "grinning through". Burgundy red will most definitely grin through. use a mid white gloss to mix this pre-coat.

In any case, do please read this concerning isocyanates, before even considering 2K systems.


http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/2k-safety-leason-learnt.14051/page-5
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Rich5ltr



Joined: 28 Mar 2008
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Location: Hampshire, UK

PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My car is a 1958 DB 2/4 MkIII, handbuilt in aluminium by craftsmen wearing brown workshop coats in Feltham. It was re-sprayed back in 1972 and that paint is now blistering additionally in places there is some corrosion that needs fixing. It is not suitable for painting over hence wanting a bare metal repaint. Incidentally perhaps some people have got the wring end of the stick. I am not proposing to do this myself but will have a specialist body shop do the work. I am just interested in people's thoughts of the virtues of different paint systems. One possibility is Mitchell Motors and Andy Mitchell is a fan of 2K paint. An alternative is Spellbound in Farnham while a third option is Fiennes Restoration, a Rolls Royce specialist who's work I have been impressed with.
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Old Wrench



Joined: 23 Dec 2013
Posts: 226
Location: Essex and France

PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it were mine, Rich, then I would seek quotations from such as R J Williams.

http://www.rswilliams.co.uk/contact-us/

http://www.djsmail.co.uk/contact-us/

http://www.amoc.org/component/option,com_weblinks/catid,160/Itemid,4/

That car is a priceless piece of wonderful engineering heritage and demands and deserves all respect.

Which, sadly, does not come cheap.........
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Rich5ltr



Joined: 28 Mar 2008
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Location: Hampshire, UK

PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 12:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, yes I know RS Williams and Desie Smail. They tend to specialise in the DB4/5/6 cars rather than the earlier Felthams. That said their bodywork is good. Mitchell Motors are also very well known in Aston (and Bristol) circles and have the benefit of working closely with Davron who do the mechanical work on my car. I certainly won't let any old back street paint shop loose on it but on the other hand I'm not about to give Aston Martin Works a cheque for £330,000 to rip it apart and replace everything with new metal! Very Happy

As an aside there is a tendency for specialists to increase their costs in direct relation to the value of the cars, something I can't fathom. It takes the same number of hours now as it did 5 years ago and back then Works Service quoted me £25k for a full body job.


Last edited by Rich5ltr on Sun Nov 30, 2014 5:17 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Rich5ltr



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Location: Hampshire, UK

PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 12:46 am    Post subject: Re: Cellulose vs Two Pack for a Classic Car? Reply with quote

Old Wrench wrote:
I presume your car is a DB2/4
Cue gratuitous picture taken at the Hampton Court Concours earlier this year Smile

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RotaryBri



Joined: 20 Dec 2007
Posts: 465
Location: Warwick

PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 2:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know that photographs can make a car look better but your paintwork looks superb. Does it really need a bare metal paint job?
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
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Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are getting done professionally, for a car like this I'd have it done in cellulose to maintain originality.

If you choose celly make sure you pick a firm who are used to painting with cellulose as it hasn't been used in volume by the refurbushing trade for more than 25 years Shocked mainstream body shops stopped using 2k about 15 years ago water based paints are the current flavour using clear over base.

Cheers

Dave
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colwyn500



Joined: 21 Oct 2012
Posts: 1745
Location: Nairn, Scotland

PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 11:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RotaryBri wrote:
I know that photographs can make a car look better but your paintwork looks superb. Does it really need a bare metal paint job?


I agree with the above and having seen the photo and seeing what a classic you own, I think the arguments sway well in favour of cellulose. From what you say you are probably going to end up paying a premium anyway because of the nature of the car and if I may say so, you don't seem over concerned about price. You may as well use the premium to get the quality of preparation and finishing which will be needed to create that original cellulose finish.

If they use modern paints, although they will be unable to create that deep, smooth lustre of cellulose, they may well charge you a similar price for a job that will be less intensive for them.
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petermeachem



Joined: 23 Sep 2013
Posts: 358
Location: Chichester Sussex

PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should be cellulose I think. It's the same with chrome, old chrome has a deep sheen, modern chrome is too sparkly.
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