Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[goneps]

Miken,

Possibly no need to completely remove the dynamo? On the Eight it's only necessary to remove the set screw from the adjustment slot, take off the belt, and swing it over to the outside.

20lb.ft. sounds not nearly enough. The Series E workshop manual specifies 44lb.ft. The correct figure for the Minor can be obtained from a torque setting chart online, using the thread size and type (BSF in the case of the Minor, I believe). Go up progressively in 5lb.ft. stages to this setting and you'll be fine.

As a final note, when applying a torque wrench the threads should be only lightly oiled, ie. a slight smear of ordinary engine oil. Never use slippery compounds such as Copaslip, which will give false readings and result in broken studs.

Richard

NB. Edited from original remarks referring to the Eight.

[Miken]

[quote="goneps"]Miken,

P

20lb.ft. sounds not nearly enough. The Series E workshop manual specifies 44lb.ft. The correct figure for the Minor can be obtained from a torque setting chart online, using the thread size and type (BSF in the case of the Minor, I believe). Go up progressively in 5lb.ft. stages to this setting and you'll be fine.

Richard

OK Thanks Richard,
The Minor uses 5/16 BSF studs.

[goneps]

Miken,

Didn't realise the Minor had such small studs. Thus the 20lb.ft. you're using is probably about right for 5/16"BSF studs (those of the Eight are M10 x 1.5).

The best chart for BSF that I've been able to find in a quick search is this:

http://www.jag-lovers.org/xk-lovers/library/torque.htm

At a guess your head studs would probably be equivalent to Grade R, which has slightly less tensile strength than SAE Grade 5 and Metric Class 8. The figures given are for new fasteners, so if you're still using original studs you might consider being a little more conservative.

Richard