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Roger-hatchy
Joined: 07 Dec 2007 Posts: 2135 Location: Tiptree, Essex
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Posted: Tue May 19, 2015 7:51 am Post subject: Bleeding Brakes |
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As the subject of renewing brakes has been posted I thought I'd pass on information of my method
Handy if you need to do the job single handed, or if like the DLM it is a pig to bleed
Well not MY method but a cheap home made device to Back bleed.
Nearly all of us will have a blow up bed / mattress with the relevant pump to inflate and deflate it.
I have made a resevoir from an old plastic air tight container, the plastic fruit ones in supermarkets
Fitted the un-used pump ball adaptor into the lid, a tight push fit seems enough, a piece of silicon tube to fit the the bleed nipple also into the lid, the tube is down to the bottom of the container.
Use the suction side of the pump that is used to deflate the camp bed to bleed the system.
I changed my old fluid on the DLM the other week, took longer finding my pump than doing the job and the brakes felt as they should after the job. |
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bob2
Joined: 06 Dec 2007 Posts: 1727 Location: Malta
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Posted: Tue May 19, 2015 9:19 am Post subject: |
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interesting any chance of posting some pics and a quick how to? |
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petermeachem
Joined: 23 Sep 2013 Posts: 358 Location: Chichester Sussex
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Roger-hatchy
Joined: 07 Dec 2007 Posts: 2135 Location: Tiptree, Essex
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Posted: Tue May 19, 2015 7:37 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Bob
Not got a photo. YET.
I'll post one soon. |
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Roger-hatchy
Joined: 07 Dec 2007 Posts: 2135 Location: Tiptree, Essex
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Posted: Tue May 19, 2015 8:00 pm Post subject: |
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Here it is.
Any translucent container could be used as long as it's not too thin.
[IMG]http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n101/Hatchy-62/DSCF8420_zpsiw69y9nh.jpg~original[/IMG]
The bleed tube is just parked in the black piece, the other end I have pushed through till almost touching the base, not sure if that is a necesaty
[IMG]http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n101/Hatchy-62/DSCF8422_zpsqeiehlra.jpg~original[/IMG]
Didn't have to use any glue as it is a very tight fit but it could be glued in if needs be.
[IMG]http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n101/Hatchy-62/DSCF8423_zps7u770wse.jpg~original[/IMG] |
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Roger-hatchy
Joined: 07 Dec 2007 Posts: 2135 Location: Tiptree, Essex
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ka
Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 600 Location: Orkney.
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Posted: Tue May 19, 2015 8:42 pm Post subject: |
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Nice, Val Singleton, John Noakes and Chris Trace would be impressed! _________________ KA
Better three than four. |
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Roger-hatchy
Joined: 07 Dec 2007 Posts: 2135 Location: Tiptree, Essex
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Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 7:02 am Post subject: |
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ka wrote: | Nice, Val Singleton, John Noakes and Chris Trace would be impressed! |
Can I have my Blue Peter badge now ?
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ka
Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 600 Location: Orkney.
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Posted: Thu May 21, 2015 7:47 am Post subject: |
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No, sorry. Just need some 'sticky back plastic' to finish it off.
This is really good, I wonder how many other home made tools there are out there, that do the job as well as, if not better than the commercial equivalent?
I like many have my favourite spanner, bent to reach even the most inaccessible nut. When rooting in the tool box the other day, I came across the 1/2" spanner, shaped to access the engine mount nuts beneath the bell housing on the Minis we once owned. _________________ KA
Better three than four. |
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bob2
Joined: 06 Dec 2007 Posts: 1727 Location: Malta
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Posted: Thu May 21, 2015 8:34 am Post subject: |
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Thanks roger for the pics, will put one together when I have some free time (home decoration time right now).
Ka thats a good idea, might sacrifice one of the older spanners for such a job!! Those nuts drive you nuts without a special tool!! |
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D4B
Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 2083 Location: Hampshire UK
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Posted: Thu May 21, 2015 9:40 am Post subject: |
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Great stuff!
Might go make one, brakes to bleed soon hopefully
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goneps
Joined: 18 Jun 2013 Posts: 601 Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 4:47 am Post subject: |
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When I first started meddling with motor vehicles, almost fifty years ago, the recommended sequence for brake bleeding was to start with the slave cylinder closest to the master cylinder and work out to the farthest. This information would have come from a trustworthy source of the time (probably a Pitman's handbook for the Herald or similar), since like many of us I was largely self-taught from such standard sources. I've always followed this method and it's always worked perfectly well.
Nowadays the usual recommendation is the opposite, namely start at the farthest slave cylinder and work towards the closest. This method is recommended in the instructions for the Eezibleed kit, for instance.
Does anyone know the theory behind either method? To my way of thinking, the closest-to-farthest is more logical, but it would be interesting to know if there's actually a valid explanation for either method.
Richard |
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MikeG
Joined: 16 Sep 2013 Posts: 56 Location: Cheshire/Staffordshire Border
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Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 7:57 am Post subject: |
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I have allways bled starting from the furthest from the Master Cylinder.This was passed on from my Dad who was 2WW REME trained.Cart comment on the thoery.
Mike |
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Peter_L
Joined: 10 Apr 2008 Posts: 2680 Location: New Brunswick. Canada.
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Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 12:39 pm Post subject: |
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Roger-hatchy wrote: | ka wrote: | Nice, Val Singleton, John Noakes and Chris Trace would be impressed! |
Can I have my Blue Peter badge now ?
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Can I have a "Tracy Island" please. Younger OCC members may ignore this. |
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