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1927 Morris Cowley Flatnose
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 252

PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2016 9:59 pm    Post subject: 1927 Morris Cowley Flatnose Reply with quote

I have just bought this 1927 flatnose Cowley to replace my '33 Minor. I really like it. It goes well enough . Not everything works. It doesn't charge but as its magneto ignition I can get to that later.
One thing I noticed immediately was that every time I go round a left hand bend there is a stink of petrol. Lifting the bonnet showed that fuel was coming from the little air vent in the screw on brass filler cap due to centrifugal force.
So, does anyone have any suggestions how to stop this? the cap looks original but is there anything missing from it? Surely people havent been putting up with this for 90 years?
Thanks Mike


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roverdriver



Joined: 18 Oct 2008
Posts: 1123
Location: 100 miles from Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2016 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would think that there should be a leather (or similar) gasket inside the cap. That gasket should have a small hole punched through it somewhere near the edge so that it does not line up with the hole in the cap.

Find a pair of old boots, cut a gasket from the thin upper, punch the hole and fit it!
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Rick
Site Admin


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 20496
Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2016 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good to see your latest wheels Mike.

RJ
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Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
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bjacko



Joined: 28 Oct 2013
Posts: 118
Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2016 5:43 am    Post subject: 1927 Cowley Petrol Cap Reply with quote

The original cap had a special hard cardboard type material washer that was fuel proof and the outside diameter was the same as the bottom of the threads so that after it was sprung in place it did not fall out every time the cap was removed. Like stated above it had an off centre hole to allow the tank to take in air as the fuel was used without blocking the centre hole in the cap.
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 252

PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2016 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies. I will see what I can come up with.
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Peter_L



Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 2228
Location: New Brunswick. Canada. (formerly "Peterwpg"

PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2016 11:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, now I am not 100% on this, but maybe there is someone with actual practical knowledge. Going back something like 50 years I was told that petrol causes leather to shrink and harden.

I have never had the need to expose leather to gasoline, so I don't have the answer, can anyone provide the truth to this 50 year old theory. ??
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bjacko



Joined: 28 Oct 2013
Posts: 118
Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2016 6:09 am    Post subject: Cowley Fuel Cap Reply with quote

Probably safer to use a plastic similar to tins of turps and the like which have sealing washer under the cap.
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2016 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a thick cork gasket with a hole punctured off-centre.
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KA

Better three than four.
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roverdriver



Joined: 18 Oct 2008
Posts: 1123
Location: 100 miles from Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2016 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have used leather boot uppers cut to size and shape with success for gaskets under petrol can lids.
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 252

PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is what I have done.
I didn't have any old boots to cut up, but I found some of this cork like stuff on a roll in my garage .
The filler neck of the fuel tank has a very narrow land for any seal to seat on so I made a top hat bush to provide a wider surface for the cork disc.
I drilled an off-set breather hole as suggested.


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Peter_L



Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 2228
Location: New Brunswick. Canada. (formerly "Peterwpg"

PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perhaps soak the cork washer in some oil.
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 252

PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes OK
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 252

PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2016 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have decided to curtail the use of my car as I think it mght benefit from a re-wire.
Here are 2 short sections (but they are like this all along) of the battery leads that were clamped side by side to the metal bulkhead under the petrol tank.
Thats the petrol tank with the drippy tap and leaky filler cap.
I have sent my ammeter off to be refurbished and purchased a load of cable and a new cut-out box. So will be busy for the next few days.
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 252

PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2016 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My car has clearly got some serious problems in the engine department so i have decided to bite the bullet and pull it apart to have a better look.
I will show my progress here. At least it should remind me how it all goes back together again. It didn't come with a very good manual.
First I had to get the engine out . I borrowed a hoist but had to make some lifting eyes to screw into the spark plug holes.
Then i decided I would need to construct a bench to dismantle and re-erect it all.
Unfortunately im a bit short of space.


Im not very knowledgeable about vintage car engines but I think Morris engines were slightly unusual in that all the threads are metric. And most of these are 10mm. Even the carburetor studs ar 10mm! The bolts and screws are metric with whitworth heads. Apart from the ones that have been changed for modern metric fittings. I think a bit of standardisation is called for here.
The first thing I did after getting it on the bench was to seperate the gearbox from the engine. The more eagle eyed amongst you will spot the problem with the clutch plate.


Last edited by Miken on Thu Dec 29, 2016 9:56 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 252

PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2016 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To remove the clutch assembly i had to make a simple tool to hold the plate so I could undo the centre nut.
Im not sure how this will work when I have re-corked the plate. I will worry about that later.

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