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1926 Rover 9 Roadster
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2017 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Terrific, thanks much! Will get right onto that.

Any idea how the red lens is retained in the body - glue? There is no visible method that I can see.

thanks

jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 1:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks to MikeC I now have a functional tail/plate light, all visible bits in brass.
More work.
Most of the dash is now populated - horn button wired and working with a relay, interior light connected, turn indicator switch mounted and working. All that remains is the refurbed oil pressure gauge, which currently has no way of fixing it in place - no clips, no screw holes...?? The clock is similar - it came with spring clips, but they are only usable on thin dash panels, up to maybe 1/8" - mine is a 1" thick plank.
With all the flooring now cut, and painted silver on the underside, I painted the top face black, mostly to hide irregularities.

Next, with the dash electrics done, fit the fuel tank. What a PITA! Had to remove most of the toe board panels to get it into place - none of that was there when I removed it. The visible front face is hung on several threads sticking out the top of the firewall (see pic), but the rear is supported on two straps of 1"x 1/8" steel soldered to the tank, and screwed to wood blocks on the back of the dash. Initially there were wood screws here, which meant, when I removed it, levering the front attachment off the threads, pushing the front downwards to get a screwdriver in there. This time I found some screws with 8mm hex heads for the rear fixings, and was able to get at them through the speedo and clock holes. Dont want to do that again! Once I get a fuel tap and an inline filter installed, it might be time to fill the engine with water again and if the fuel system doesnt leak, get it running again.

The receipt for the engine rebuild advises retightening the head after its been run up to temperature - any idea what sort of torque I should aim for on the head bolts ?
thanks
jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 2:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gear lever install. Hold down plate was on the box, with a plastic bag over it. Removed the bolts and plate, to find 3 more hex head bolts . These turned out to be 2" long , apparently holding the lever seat onto the lower part of the gearbox cover. They should have been countersunk, but they were 1/8 proud, preventing the lever retaining plate from sitting flat - the plate was visibly bent by being tightened down over the bolt heads. Looks like the original screws had been removed with a drift or small cold chisel, as the edges of the countersinks were a bit mangled. MMMMMM!
Finding countersunk 1/4-20 bolts a bit thin on the ground, I decided to modify them in the lathe. After a few goes at getting the taper right, and a screwdriver slot the right size, they now are flush within 10-15 thou, and the lever and plate fit nicely.

jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now for the throttle connection. Since none of the original parts were present I made up an equivalent as best I could - threaded 10mm rod inside an alloy tube, clamped to the firewall. Length of bent flat steel as the pedal, and a short length as the arm pulling on the carb lever. Need to fit a return spring on the pedal inside as well as the small one on the carb lever. Used a modern adjustable rod with ball joints at the carb. Next to figure out the hand throttle connection , and anchor the choke cable casing somewhere.


jp.
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 6:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have now run the engine fully up to temp twice, and the second time it idled reliably without any throttle, AND there were no water or petrol leaks! Very pleased with that.
There are two brake cross shafts towards the rear of chassis, around the rear spring fixing point (inverted quarter elliptics). I noticed once before that the bolts holding the brackets for these to the chassis were not fully through the nuts, and ought to be corrected. Bought some 1" 3/8 Whit bolts, and nylocks to replace them. Quite a PITA to do altogether, but....new 3/8W bolt heads were a bit under spec across the flats, the nuts were a long way under - socket slipped badly on one of them. Then I tried to fit a new nut on an original bolt - bolt is 20tpi, but definitely 3/8 OD! 20tpi is correct for 1/4W. New nuts and bolts are correct pitch.

Also...on the ends of the brake levers on these cross shafts there are fittings with round heads and shanks that go through the eye on the end of the lever, and the other end has a hole at 90d to its length and 2 flats machined , where the operating rod is held in the fitting. Both of these have quite a lot of slop in the lever eye - 1/16- 3/32 at least. Is this sort of slop common, normal ? fixable ?

jp
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Paul fairall



Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Posts: 429
Location: North west Kent

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does your throttle linkage have a stop for w hen you have your foot flat to the floor. The leverage involved could break something on the carb.
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

At the moment there is no stop at all, just the floor. I was planning on carpeting the floor a bit later in the proceedings (which should effectively raise the stopping point), but in the mean time I plan to make the the floor the stop, and once I have locked the throttle lever arm to the cross shaft, find out the pedal height. If thats unsatisfactory, I may need to fit a wooden stop of some sort under the pedal. As shown in the parts book, my pedal is a flat strip of steel 1/8"x1", which should have enough flexibility to bend before it breaks anything on the carb. Only part left to work out here now is where to fix the choke cable outer - no brackets available at the moment.
Thanks.
jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Managed to connect the choke cable to the arm by drilling an M5 bolt, fitting it to the arm so it can still turn, then capturing the cable with a nut and washer above. Works fine.
Connected the hand throttle with a short length of light chain to the arm on the control shaft. A bit coarse in its action, but usable. Added my last bit of spare petrol to the tank, and started it using only choke and hand throttle - no manual intervention. Fired up easily and was able to slowly ease the choke off and keep it running.
Longest run so far, and she got pretty hot. Holding 20 psi oil at idle (book says 25psi @ 25mph is correct), and rises to 40 with more revs.
Might have to adjust 3rd brush some more to bring charge rate down - still seeing 10A+when revved.
I have advanced the spark some more from where it last ran, and it seemed smooth enough. Rigged up a timing light, but with the marks dead centre behind the block they are impossible to get the light onto them - will have to find an easier place to mark.
Only worry now is the temperature - book says expect to see 140F (60C), but it went past 80C. Will watch the next few runs and see. Since these are the first runs since a full rebuild, maybe its just very tightly set up?
I am using a digital gauge meant for 5V computer supply, and if the revs are up a bit and the volts rise much past 6.5, the gauge goes nuts. Need to find a solution to that - resistor in the line?

jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2017 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Terrific, thanks much! Will get right onto that.

jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

More progress...finally. Having started to look at trimming quotes, needed to get parts in place to enable realistic estimates, which means the windscreen pillars. The car came with all new body panels, and mostly new wood. There were holes in the scuttle panels where the pillars would bolt up, but not drilled through the woodwork, and the left side holes were pretty rough. With my mate, who has a very good eye for straightness on hand, we drilled 4mm pilot holes on the right side, then ran the 5/16" drill through, and got that pillar mounted, looking good. Manually holding the left pillar in place, with tape over the holes in the panel, and eyeballing the lineup, we marked the hole positions. The top one was easy to do pilot and final, but with the lower hole only the pilot was easy - it was very close to the edge of the steelwork hole. This one we drilled from the inside to out, preying that the drill would follow the pilot hole . With a little extra gouging, we got this left pillar mounted. Then I noticed that the steel panel under the bottom bolt was bowing inwards - the underlying woodwork was not supporting the steel closely enough. This also pulled the pillar outwards at the top, and made it difficult to fit the windscreen frame. Removing the top door hinge enabled me to see a gap of ~ 1/8" , so I dug put a piece of 1/8" ply, and with some cursing, to hammer it into the gap. Drilled through the ply, and refitted the pillar, and its much better. Along the way it became apparent that things are not very symmetrical left and right - the door hinges are at different heights, the corners of the scuttle are not identical, and so on. At least we think the screen looks square to the body and radiator, and wont be obviously skewed. The gap between the bottom of the frame and the scuttle is not consistent, but its seems symmetrical. When I look at the open dickey seat lid against the brick wall behind there is a significant slope to it - hopefully caused by the way I have the stands under the rear of the car. The screen frame attaches to the pillars with 3/8W wing bolts, but the beautiful new plating has covered the threads, and they wont go in - now chasing a 3/8W die to clean them up. Next test is to see if I can get the actual screen into the frame without problems.

jp
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1950
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lovely job, well done.

Perhaps this is the time to consider....''if it looks right, it IS right?'' Smile

PS.....your issues seem to be an automotive trait.....until recent times, Morgan doors were sized to fit the prevailing holes...no the other way around.

And [sorry, bad grammar again]...for a more modernistic example, try getting both sides of a Ford Mustang the same? Even Ford themselves had bodyshell tolerances visible to the naked eye of a blind man!
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

More research needed on the windscreen area. I have the 3 fittings as below, which I believe are used for attaching the front of the hood to the windscreen pillars. No 2 are the same, so I am on the hunt for one that matches one of these, or a pair that will do the same job please. The post on top of the pillars is around 3/8 to maybe 1/2" - my pinky fits in these pieces comfortably.

thanks
jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 3:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Windscreen - since it has a corner broken off, its obviously not toughened, and no laminations visible - naughty! It was last registered in 1964 from its sticker, but I guess its possibly an original item. Anyway, checked out the local glazier - whom I used to replace the headlight and sidelight glasses - and they can do a toughened replacement screen in ~6mm, with toughened stamp at a reasonable price - actually about the same cost as a new Porsche 928 screen was a few years ago. Found all the right rubbers for the frame at local supplier of that stuff, so its looking good. Found a 3/8 Whit die on fleabay so I could clean up the wing bolts that hold the screen frame to to stanchions. Just waiting the glass now.
jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 1:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the new screen back from glazier - actually subbed out to somebody who can cut toughened (or cut then toughen), and its even got the proper markings as toughened. Assembly is a real PITA one handed as the glass needs to be a firm fit in the rubbers, and the frame tends to wobble all over the place. Took a while and some swearing, but got it done.
On a recent run I found it would backfire quite a lot much above idle, so I pulled the carb off and checked all the passages as best I could. It runs a bit better, but still backfires above idle, even with no load. Might have to change to an SU, which is a common alternative for the original carbs.
Lost charge on the last run, and had to do some more work on the cutout points - will have to try to sort this permanently - dont want to be doing it every hour or so of running.
When we were fitting the windscreen pillars it was obvious that the front of the car was not level sideways, so I played with front stands a bit and fixed that. Then we could see that with the dickey seat door open (near vertical), the top edge of the door sloped right-> left ,and checking the height of the chassis above the axle showed it was higher on the right - not caused by stands . Could this be due to driver side spring being set higher to allow for driver weight always being present ? I know Rover did this well into the 50s.

jp
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47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1480
Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JP,

Quote:
On a recent run I found it would backfire quite a lot much above idle


Have you done a compression test? Backfire at idle is indicative of a burned or sticking inlet valve.

Art
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