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Paul fairall
Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Posts: 429
Location: North west Kent
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 Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 12:34 pm Post subject: 12v conversion ford popular |
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I now have all the parts I need to do this except an ignition light, maybe I'll get it today.
I have an alternator in a dynamo case, not for a more authentic look but because it fits where the Dynamo goes and the standard pulley fits the shaft.
I will change to negative earth and the alternator us the same. So let me say what I think I need to do.
Reverse polarity of ammeter and fuel gauge, fit a voltage regulator in line with the fuel gauge 12v - 5v is supposedly enough. Fit 12v coil with polarity reversed, 12v battery with negative earth. Change lamps to 12v. I read about flashing the Dynamo to change the polarity but as I am changing to an alternator that is negative earth that's not necessary. I understand the 6v starter motor will be fine on 12v but will the polarity need to be changed. I am led to believe it won't.
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alastairq
Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1953
Location: East Yorkshire
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| Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 2:51 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | I understand the 6v starter motor will be fine on 12v but will the polarity need to be changed. I am led to believe it won't. |
I have run my 10 hp sidevalve engine on 12 volts, neg earth...for a long time.
The starter will be fine, just don't drop it on your toes. |
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Paul fairall
Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Posts: 429
Location: North west Kent
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| Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 4:57 pm Post subject: |
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| alastairq wrote: | | Quote: | | I understand the 6v starter motor will be fine on 12v but will the polarity need to be changed. I am led to believe it won't. |
I have run my 10 hp sidevalve engine on 12 volts, neg earth...for a long time.
The starter will be fine, just don't drop it on your toes. |
i don't intend to remove it Alastair until the winter, when I may remove the engine for an inspection and possible overhaul. For now I will fit the aquaplane exhaust and inlet manifolds and twin su's. Should I decide to, I will fit the fast road cam and 8hp head.
But back to the thread, is what I have planned electrically correct or am I missing anything.
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47Jag
Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1480
Location: Bothwell, Scotland
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| Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 7:20 pm Post subject: |
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Paul,
I would say you have it all covered.
Art |
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Paul fairall
Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Posts: 429
Location: North west Kent
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| Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 8:32 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Art, wish me luck.
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47Jag
Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1480
Location: Bothwell, Scotland
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| Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 9:53 pm Post subject: |
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Paul,
I would say you have it all covered.
Art |
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Paul fairall
Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Posts: 429
Location: North west Kent
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| Posted: Sat Apr 29, 2017 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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Made a start today, disconnected everything from the regulator box and spliced A with A1 and the thick cable that goes to the alternator. I read somewhere that it's a good idea to run another from the same terminal if the alternator direct to the battery as the original cable may have to take more current from the alternator charging a low battery, so ran another yo the battery positive. Fitted the coil and wired, strange that the fuel gauge supply comes from the live coil supply and not from inside the car. It seems the thinner cable that connected the Dynamo to the regulator now needs a live feed from the ignition switch to the alternator so I could connect it to the fuel gauge feed through a lamp and to the alternator. My understanding is the lamp lights when the feed goes to earth in the alternator, that earth path is lost when the alternator charges. It must be a little more involved because I don't get continuity to earth from the terminal. Maybe the alternator needs a feed from the battery first but I didn't check it with the alternator connected to the battery. I did try the starter connected to the 12v battery and it turns it very fast.
I changed the flasher relay for a 12v negative earth unit.
Tomorrow I will wire the voltage regulator 12v -5v for the fuel gauge and reverse the polarity of the ammeter.
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Paul fairall
Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Posts: 429
Location: North west Kent
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| Posted: Sun Apr 30, 2017 5:24 pm Post subject: |
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Today I wired in the voltage regulator to the fuel gauge and reversed the polarity, also reversed the polarity of the ammeter. Changed the lamps for 12v on rear lights, dash lights and indicators and changed the lamp holder in the offside indicator as its been a bit and miss. Starter turns the engine so quick it fires up immediately. Made a bracket for the battery as the 6v battery was held in place by a bungy strap that was on its way out. I couldn't loosen the nuts that hold the headlights to the wing so it's wheels off and some heat.
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Kenham
Joined: 12 Mar 2012
Posts: 209
Location: Kent
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| Posted: Sun Apr 30, 2017 5:30 pm Post subject: |
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| All sounds good , can you tell me what type of voltage regulator you are using for the fuel gauge please. |
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Paul fairall
Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Posts: 429
Location: North west Kent
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| Posted: Sun Apr 30, 2017 10:01 pm Post subject: |
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| Kenham wrote: | | All sounds good , can you tell me what type of voltage regulator you are using for the fuel gauge please. |
LM7805 do a search on eBay about £1
12v and ground with 5v output, best fixed to a piece of aluminum as a heat sink. I had some heat sink paste left from an amplifier build.
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