Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[ka]

I also have a sender unit in my top hose, and an electric water pump in the bottom hose; just for info I have also fitted a couple of small electric fans behind the rad to help with cooling, on the same switch as the water pump.
I allow my engine to thermosypon as original design, and only use the pump when stationary, going up hills or when the temp gauge climbs high.
I let my engine establish its own temperature, which is around 90-95 degrees C; the main time I used the pump was climbing Applecross, but it is a little cooler north of Hadrians wall!
Having thrashed the socks out of the 10hp around most of the race tracks in the UK, they perform better when hot, so allowing the engine to run at its own temp is best for me.
_________________
KA

Better three than four.

[GARAGE HERMIT]

ka,

thank's for all that information, very helpful,
re- pressure relief spring, i would have thought the more pressure the better, obviously not, what's the thinking behind keeping the oil pressure down to 30-35 psi,?

i'm fitting a 7" electric radiator fan,
the fan operating s/w i bought switch's at 82 degree's, too low do you think ? , i could buy another that switch's at 90 degree's ?,
which electric water pump did you buy ?,

any pic's of your engine bay, ?,
_________________
1957 - 103e - popular,

[Peter_L]

From Ka's earlier post:

Sound and solid advice, for anyone who has done an engine rebuild and does not know this.

Quote Ka "Fill the cooler and filter with oil before first start,
back feed the oil pump the same way to help with priming,
Spin the engine over initially without plugs to get oil pressure before first start, and then when starting normally, spin the engine over until the oil gauge moves, or the light goes out before turning on the key, with the extended oil lines/filter it will take a few seconds before pressure and oil hits the mains and big ends".

May I add my bit. Bearings were always given generous amounts of clean oil during a rebuild. Also down the bores, in fact no moving parts were devoid of lubrication during assembly.

[ka]

Fords have a sideplate that gives access to the valve assembly and also the oil gallery. The gasket is at its thinnest and most vulnerable separating the gallery from the valve area. An excess of oil pressure can burst the gasket along this run, reducing pressure particularly when hot. The 10hp engine is not exactly in the Bugatti league for power production so the engine is not highly stressed. Within reason any oil pressure in the shells and white metal big ends will keep the job lubricated, particularly at the modest rpm that the engine achieves. The best thing you have fitted is the filter that will give clean oil to the moving parts that will give longevity to the engine.
_________________
KA

Better three than four.

[GARAGE HERMIT]

[GARAGE HERMIT]

modified the oil filler tube, to stop it rattling about,




_________________
1957 - 103e - popular,

[ka]

Your breather adapter on the filler pipe is a neat, but unfortunately unnecessary extra, the lid on the filler is not an airtight seal, therefore the filler will allow the engine to breath fine without it, it also looks as though you will need either a funnel or a very steady hand when adding oil.. I picked up a small fine mesh sieve from a hardware shop, and placed it in the filler bowl; stops any accidental 'extras' in the oil dropping in.
Your adapter on the fuel pump is a good option, but as already stated, needs to be facing up, or it will fill with oil, leak all over the place and stop the flow of air/gasses from the engine.
Just looking back along this thread, and the 'Cooper' references made to the oil pump is the route I have taken. Initially I adapted a 100e oil pump, but the pick up pipe is a twisty shape to pick up oil from the sump. I reverted to the standard 10hp pump, with the extension and 100e rotors. One mod I have made is to partially blank off part of the pick-up area at the bottom of the pump, blanking off around 3/4-2/3 of the area, to ensure oil is picked up from the center of the sump to stop starvation when going around left corners. Not usually a problem of the road, but drive it enthusiastically and it will become.
_________________
KA

Better three than four.

[GARAGE HERMIT]

ka,

not sure what you mean "needing a funnel or steady hand" to fill with oil, i just flip the top of the filler pipe, and fill,
breather on the filler pipe, i thought would be the path of least resistance, plus i noticed an aftermarket filler/breather ad somewhere, and as i like messing about, thought why not,
wont be altering the oil pump at the moment, in the future maybe, but i'll need more detail's about this "extension" etc,
yes, the p/pump breather, as i mentioned previously, i'll be modifying it,
_________________
1957 - 103e - popular,

[GARAGE HERMIT]

thought i'd better check that the smith's temp gauge i bought was compatible with the chinese sender i bought, of course it was'nt, gauge read full hot on my hi-tech test rig, so i raided my supply of resistor's i use for making guitar valve amp's, 28 ohm's did it, boiling water out of the kettle poured over the sender, it read's normal,


_________________
1957 - 103e - popular,

[ka]

Do not want to drag this out, but when filling after an oil change, 20/50 is quite thick, so when pouring in the spout, the flow can back up the pipe and filler the bowl at the top, and should the oil reach the level of the breather pipe, will drain through this pipe. As suggested, a funnel protruding down the filler neck into the pipe will overcome this.
As and when you get to the oil pump, post a new thread, and I will give some links and info on one way to do it.
Your sender mod is interesting, but just a question, when the sender is in boiling, or water at 100 degrees, should not the gauge read high?
A thermosyphon engine will boil at 100 degrees, that is why modern engines run a pressurised system, combined with anti-freeze to allow a higher boiling point.
_________________
KA

Better three than four.

[GARAGE HERMIT]

ka,

come on, i know how to pour oil into an engine,

the water from the kettle had boiled, but was not boiling/bubbling, as such would be less than 100 degree's, plus when the antifreeze is in the water the boiling point of the water in the engine will be higer, as you mentioned, so the actual temp showing on the gauge will be about right at the normal mark, i'll obviously have to see how it work's out when i actually run the engine,
_________________
1957 - 103e - popular,

[Paul fairall]

Am I right in thinking the gauge reading matched the temperature of the water or are you assuming not quite boiling water read as normal.
_________________
1957 ford popular

[GARAGE HERMIT]

[ka]

OK sorry about the comment regarding the backing up of oil in the filler pipe, 20/50 is many times thicker than pouring synthetic oil into the filler neck of a modern. I will retreat to reading others comments, best of luck with your build.
_________________
KA

Better three than four.

[GARAGE HERMIT]