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Temperature senders.
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration. Forum Index -> Rootes Group & Original Companies (Hillman, Humber, Singer, Sunbeam, Commer etc)
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MrWhite



Joined: 09 May 2017
Posts: 88

PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 7:52 pm    Post subject: Temperature senders. Reply with quote

I was doing some work on the cooling system of our Gazelle V and decided to change the temperature sender as the terminal on the old one had snapped off. To cut an long story short, I have now had 2 new ones and neither work. Both were reading too high, making me think initially that the car was overheating, I checked it with a digital temp guage however and it wasn't, so I stuck the old one back together on 1mm or terminal I managed to retrieve by filing down the plastic top and it returned to reading within the normal area. My spares company assure me they have sent the correct one for the make and model of car, I paid for a second one to hopefully prove the first was faulty but clearly it wasn't, proven by my fair self. I have now 'fixed' the old one, a better repair but doubtlessly 'not recommended' anywhere and it is fine and everything back to normal. So I now have 2 new sensors that are no use to me and my old Smiths one repaired and working, altohugh I can't guarantee how long it will last, I may get another 50 years though Wink , anyone got any ideas what is going on?
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MVPeters



Joined: 28 Aug 2008
Posts: 642
Location: Northern MA, USA

PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a stab in the dark, but don't some cars have a 10V stabilised circuit for some instruments?
I don't know if Rootes group cars use this technique, but if a sender designed for 10V is used on a car designed for 12V, the readings would almost certainly be different.
As I said, just a stab in the dark!
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2002 Mini Cooper 'S'
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Bitumen Boy



Joined: 26 Jan 2012
Posts: 1346
Location: Above the snow line in old Monmouthshire

PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I suspect it's just crap quality control of aftermarket parts. I wanted one earlier this year and thought it would be easy, as it's the same sender as an old Mini. Got one cheap off fleabay which didn't work properly and the postage cost meant it wasn't worth sending back, so thought I'd see if the local factors could get one in and got lucky - that one worked, but they're probably all made in the same Chinese factory these days.
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MrWhite



Joined: 09 May 2017
Posts: 88

PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got mine from Speedy Spares.
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Jaguar



Joined: 24 Jan 2013
Posts: 19
Location: The Netherlands

PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are two types of senders used by Rootes. The first which was used on early Rootes cars worked with 12V and the second one was using a volt stabilisator and uses 10V. The Gazelle series V should have the sender which is used together with a volt stabilsator which means 10V is used.
Speedy Spares deliver real quality parts, so if you have the right type of sender (in your case 10V) it should work.

Regards,

Peter
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MrWhite



Joined: 09 May 2017
Posts: 88

PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for that, good information, is there a way of telling whether I have 10 or 12 volt, I noted the numbers on them at one satge but I don't remember seeing the voltage anywhere?
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Jaguar



Joined: 24 Jan 2013
Posts: 19
Location: The Netherlands

PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The temp senders had a piece of plastic on them and identification was made by different colours on the plastic, but I have forgotten wich is which.
I assume that the gauge is the original one? If not and an old type gauge is used then it won't work properly with the sender which needs a voltage stabilisator. A quick manner to check out if the voltage stabilisator is switched in the system is the following: take loose the wire which is attached to the sender and use an analogue voltmeter which you connect to the wire. With ignition on the needle of the voltmeter should waver forth and back.
Don't use a digital voltmeter because in that case the readings are like crazy.
Instead of a voltmeter you can use also a simple light which should go on and off.
By the way the petrol gauge is wired also in the system with the voltage stabilisator and in fact both gauges are exactly the same when it regards the inside of this two gauges.
One thing you can do also is: measure with an Ohm-meter the difference in resistance of your existing sender and the new ones. This measurement should be done by different temperatures, so that means that the senders should be laid in hot water with varying temperatures.
I think that you will find that the new senders have different resistance results.

Regards,

Peter
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MrWhite



Joined: 09 May 2017
Posts: 88

PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, Thanks again Peter.
I think you are coming to a similar view to Speedy Spares, I have just sent them part numbers from the old sender and the guage as they are wondering if it has had a different guage fitted at some time. We have a massive amout of information about the car's history but there are gaps, so who knows. I will try some of the checks you suggest, I have both kinds of test metres, I am not wonderful with them but with instructions I should be fine. Hopefully we will both come to the same conclusion Rolling Eyes
Graeme.
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