Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Rootes75]

Finally, new brake switch fitted on the lorry, new wiring and new bulbs and first press of the pedal we have brake lights! The lorry is now ready to head out on the road for some short trial trips to iron out problems and see how the refurbed engine and cooling systems cope.
She hasnt been out of the shed for about 4 years and that was when she was just a chassis cab. Some nice dry weather is whats needed now in the next few weeks.
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Various Rootes Vehicles.

[kevin2306]

Again, nothing to the car but more prep work for servicing time.
The air regulator had broken on my compressor so ordered a new one, duly arrived and fitted so now I have a working compressor and air tools once more.
I’m hoping the thrust bearings arrive this week so the adjustable ramps can be reassembled, still waiting on the delivery of the composite gasket for the gearbox sump but have the oil on the shelf so good to go.
Been out walking over the weekend and it’s good to see the snow dropout, spring won’t be long now.

Kev

[Rick]

Dug out a few bifurcated rivets from a musty old Oxo tin, and fitted new bonnet corner rubbers to both little and big Dodge yesterday. Exciting times

RJ
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[Ray White]

[Rootes75]

Removed the battery from my 47 Minx this morning, its flat so its on trickle charge now.
Always planned to keep her off the road and give her a thorough rebuild but recently having sorted the throttle problems she had I am tempted to put her back on the road. I missed not having a classic to drive about in last summer.
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Various Rootes Vehicles.

[kevin2306]

Finished rebuilding my elevating car ramps today, my son (mech engineering apprentice) has done a great job of making new threaded components, I fitted them along with some better quality thrust bearings and they work a treat.
That’s all in the garage today (suffering with tennis elbow so the cold doesn’t help) but will have the singe4 in the air tomorrow, and get on with the new sump gasket then move onto the rear exhaust replacement.
Oil and filter change after that plus a general check over.

Kev

[Rootes75]

As the cost to replace the original Lucas wiper motor is so high on the lorry we decided to have another go at the original. Fully stripped it and degreased all the old solid stuff and made sure we cleaned up all the points and connections thoroughly. Upon attaching wires straight to the battery we actually got it working!
Just goes to show what a bit of perseverance can do!
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Various Rootes Vehicles.

[alastairq]

[Penguin45]

Underseal.....

P45.
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'67 Wolseley MkI 18/85, '70 Austin MkII 1800 The Landcrab Forum.

[MikeEdwards]

[Penman]

Hi
Get someone else to turn it over while you watch the glass bowl for fuel movement.
If there isn't any, then there is still a problem with the pump.
Or the inlet to the carb bowl is stuck closed, but the pump pressure should overcome that.
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Bristols should always come in pairs.

Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10

[MikeEdwards]

There's certainly fuel coming into the pump. When I leave it for a week or three, the level drops to around 1cm in the bowl, and after a small amount of cranking, it's as close to the top as it gets, so it's getting fuel in.

I think you're right, maybe the next job is to take the bottom off the Stromberg carbs and see what's going on in there. I've had issues with "stuff" coming in from the tank before, which I thought I'd properly cleaned out - that was causing the valve to stick open last time, with fuel pouring out of a random casting hole. So maybe it's gummed up again.

Cheers for the input.

[Rootes75]

More work re-fitting the overhauled wiper motor on the lorry, not a very easy job where its situated.
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Various Rootes Vehicles.

[Ray White]

I thought it was a nice day so I could take the "26 Dodge out for a spin with the hood down. Unfortunately, on starting the engine it would only fire on three cylinders. The spark was good on all four and the plugs were working. I did a compression test and found no compression on no. 2 cylinder. I thought I had sorted the sticking valve problem that I had last year but no; it was back.

To gain access to the valve chest the 'through the block' air intake duct needs to be removed. It is bolted onto the exhaust manifold by just two studs; one of which also acts as a pivot for the manual advance mechanism operated from a boss on the steering wheel. Once out of the way the two valve chest covers can be removed. These are held on by two wing nuts. Once removed the offending valve can be freed by levering it's spring.

When I replaced the valve guides and valves I made sure everything was moving freely so why this is happening now I don't know but I will be adding a little Diesel to the fuel in future to keep things lubricated.

Another annoying thing is a leak from the oil pressure gauge. Oil was dripping down onto the hand brake which was unpleasant but I have stopped it leaking now.

My trip was delayed but eventually I was able to put a few more
miles on the rebuilt engine. No dramas but the ignition key is very loose in the switch and can fall out on the carpet. I restored the ignition switch but the barrel had broken and I could not find a replacement without changing the original "Clum " ignition key so I attempted a repair. It has obviously failed.

[Penguin45]

Fitted the fully rebuilt 25D distributor to the red 'Crab. 20 mins.

Fitted replacement headlight assembly to WifeBus. Took two of us three hours. Moderns.

P45.
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'67 Wolseley MkI 18/85, '70 Austin MkII 1800 The Landcrab Forum.