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What did you do to your car today?
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 2658
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2019 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Penguin45 wrote:
The 'Crab has a transvers engine, mounted on rubbers and they do rock a little. The front pipe is clamped at the manifold and on a bracket at the back end of the gearbox. There has to be a flex point after that to allow for the rocking motion. This can be a spiral wound flexi, or a ball joint. Either way, neither one works well, as the spiral type splits apart quickly and the last ball joint one just separated after less that 1000 miles.

The one above will still swivel, but the springs and bolts mechanically hold the thing together. £20 from a local exhaust place.

Off to the NEC shortly, so we'll see if it stays together. Very Happy

P45.

(I'll be on the Wolseley Owners Club stand - come and say hello!)


I remember the mini/ 1100 exhaust manifolds having a similar problem. Could you perhaps fit a telescopic damper between the engine and body?
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Bitumen Boy



Joined: 26 Jan 2012
Posts: 1251
Location: Above the snow line in old Monmouthshire

PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2019 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray White wrote:
Penguin45 wrote:
The 'Crab has a transvers engine, mounted on rubbers and they do rock a little. The front pipe is clamped at the manifold and on a bracket at the back end of the gearbox. There has to be a flex point after that to allow for the rocking motion. This can be a spiral wound flexi, or a ball joint. Either way, neither one works well, as the spiral type splits apart quickly and the last ball joint one just separated after less that 1000 miles.

The one above will still swivel, but the springs and bolts mechanically hold the thing together. £20 from a local exhaust place.

Off to the NEC shortly, so we'll see if it stays together. Very Happy

P45.

(I'll be on the Wolseley Owners Club stand - come and say hello!)


I remember the mini/ 1100 exhaust manifolds having a similar problem. Could you perhaps fit a telescopic damper between the engine and body?


I had the same problem recur constantly on a Mini. Really it needed new bushes fitted to the steady bar on the RHS, but all the fasteners were rusted up solid and, because it was all mounted in common with the master cylinders, sorting that out properly would have been a major job.

Fortunately there were (and probably still are) aftermarket supplementary steady bars available. Very simple but fabricated from heavy gauge steel, one end bolted to the bulkhead where the master cylinders would fit on a LHD car, while the other had three fixing points to the engine - one of the manifold studs and two of the thermostat housing studs. The two ends were then united with a hefty piece of threaded rod - IIRC it was about 5/8 diameter, but don't quote me on that - assembled to suit with nuts, heavy washers and big rubber bushes. It looked rather crude but it worked just fine, the exhaust stopped giving trouble and the car was easier to drive smoothly to boot.

As I say it was very simple really, and it probably wouldn't be too hard to knock up something similar for another car that was prone to the same trouble.
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emmerson



Joined: 30 Sep 2008
Posts: 1150
Location: South East Wales

PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2019 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I cured my mini by fitting two rods from the plate on the bottom of the gear change forward to the edge of the sub-frame. Three eight rod with washers welded on and rubber bushes. Job done!
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 2658
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2019 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

emmerson wrote:
I cured my mini by fitting two rods from the plate on the bottom of the gear change forward to the edge of the sub-frame. Three eight rod with washers welded on and rubber bushes. Job done!


That's what I would have done too. Wink
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MVPeters



Joined: 28 Aug 2008
Posts: 629
Location: Northern MA, USA

PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2019 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once upon a time, tapered cone inserts for the steady bar rubber bushes were readily available. They worked well & avoided some dis-assembly.
Less effective was a bar that bolted to the underside of the gearbox.
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47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1430
Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2019 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recall my 1966 Austin 1800 did have a horizontal damper.

Art
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
Posts: 2212
Location: Somerset

PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2019 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We had timing issues when we took the Commer out round the yard, we spent this morning checking for stuck valves and re-checking the distributor.
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1946 ERF C.I.5
1947 Hillman Minx
1955 Hillman Minx Mk8
1950 Commer R541
1978 Karrier Bantam
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MikeEdwards



Joined: 25 May 2011
Posts: 1620
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2019 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally got back onto the old Audi after spending what seems like years repainting the road wheels on my daily driver. I've welded the offside rear bumper mount strengthener in place now, and started grinding some of the welds down. They'll all be covered with carpet in any case, but some are a bit too high.
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Rick
Site Admin


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 19798
Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2019 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I awoke little Dodge from its lengthy winter slumber today, I didn't take it down the road but I had it running for a while to blow away some cobwebs. Hopefully I'll get to road test it over the next few days.

RJ
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Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
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kevin2306



Joined: 01 Jul 2013
Posts: 1329
Location: nr Llangollen, north wales

PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2019 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had a half day today.
I replaced a leaky autobox gasket on the Singer last year,I used a neoprene type and it leaked even more!.
This time I have tried a composite type, difference this time was I reprofiled the area on the pan around the bolt holes as they were dished slightly.
Seems fine so time will tell.
I was considering selling it over the winter in favour of a tr6 but couldnít do it.
As a compromise we have bought a Mercedes slk so Iím getting my open topped fix and a very nice car it is too.
Iím sure we will get more use out of it than the tr.

Kev
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Vulgalour



Joined: 08 May 2018
Posts: 124
Location: Middlesbrough and Kent

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2019 3:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had to farm out some jobs on the Princess since I didn't have the equipment to tackle the hub nuts. They were on so tight even the garage it went to ended up with broken tools! Jobs now done, happily, and a fresh MoT to boot.
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
Posts: 2212
Location: Somerset

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2019 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We went to our local auto electrical garage yesterday, we have kniw them for years, my father for a good 40 years. They are proper old style with spares going back to 50's, but to our surprise when we got there they told us the old shop had been sold for flats and all the old spares had gone! They are now based in a portacabin next to the remaining garage.
Such a shame that a place like that has gone. The spares job lot went to a dealer for not a great sum. Probably a dealer who has just quoted me over £120 for a Lucas distributor cap alone!
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1937 Ford 7w
1946 ERF C.I.5
1947 Hillman Minx
1955 Hillman Minx Mk8
1950 Commer R541
1978 Karrier Bantam
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badhuis



Joined: 20 Aug 2008
Posts: 994
Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2019 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rootes75 wrote:
They are proper old style with spares going back to 50's, but to our surprise when we got there they told us the old shop had been sold for flats and all the old spares had gone!

I had a similar experience five years ago when I remembered the old Lucas electrical specialist when I was looking for dynamo brushes. It was a proper old place with a 60s Lucas Electrics sign to the store front, and many spares in the back. I had used this place a couple of times because the owner was so experienced I always got back for spares but had not done that for a couple of years.
Regrettably the place was gone and new houses were on the spot.

Hmmm maybe I should revisit the bearings store in my town. This is a truly Alladins cave, run by a family for over 50 years. No real desk or till, I was invited once to see the spares and it was huge, all old fashioned storage racks and thousands of bearings.
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a car stops being fun when it becomes an investment
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badhuis



Joined: 20 Aug 2008
Posts: 994
Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2019 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Surpised to learn they have a real website, and are in business since 1912! Fourth generation now.
https://adsmuldersbv.nl/index.php/over-ons
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
Posts: 2212
Location: Somerset

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2019 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats now a couple of local auto specialists have closed near us and we have missed out on them selling off their older spares stores.
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1937 Ford 7w
1946 ERF C.I.5
1947 Hillman Minx
1955 Hillman Minx Mk8
1950 Commer R541
1978 Karrier Bantam
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