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Spring shackles
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alanb



Joined: 10 Sep 2012
Posts: 346
Location: Berkshire.

PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2019 11:26 am    Post subject: Spring shackles Reply with quote

Hi all can someone please tell me the correct procedures for tightening the shackle pins with castle nuts and split pins on leaf springs, is it tighten as much as possible and then back off one flat or just tighten until no play then pin at the nearest flat?
Alan
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 2854
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Fri Aug 30, 2019 9:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Spring shackles Reply with quote

alanb wrote:
Hi all can someone please tell me the correct procedures for tightening the shackle pins with castle nuts and split pins on leaf springs, is it tighten as much as possible and then back off one flat or just tighten until no play then pin at the nearest flat?
Alan


I also wish I knew the answer to that one as I am about to do the same job on my MG TC. I imagine you only need to tighten them enough to eliminate play and then put the split pin in. If they are too tight could they perhaps squeak?
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Phil - Nottingham



Joined: 01 Jan 2008
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Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Sat Aug 31, 2019 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Surely if the bush has a spacer tube the nut must fully be tightened (with car weight full on) to its shoulders - backing off sufficient to fit the split pin
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alanb



Joined: 10 Sep 2012
Posts: 346
Location: Berkshire.

PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phil,
The Morris 8 doesn't have rubber bushes it has a bronze bush in the spring with bronze spacers either side. I tightened them as tight as I could then backed them of until I could just turn the spacers and put the split pin in been on a couple of short runs and the car seems ok much smoother than with the old springs and even steers better. Good luck with the MG Ray.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
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Location: Derby

PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alanb wrote:

Good luck with the MG Ray.


Thanks Alan.

I have taken the n/s rear spring apart. There is a fair amount of rust so I plan to sand blast it and apply corn head grease before re- assembling. The clamps should have rollers but they are missing and just bolts remain which have worn half through. I have a length of brass tubing which will fit snugly over some new bolts and I am hoping when packed with grease they will work as intended.


Last edited by Ray White on Mon Sep 02, 2019 9:18 pm; edited 1 time in total
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alanb



Joined: 10 Sep 2012
Posts: 346
Location: Berkshire.

PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine looked ok until I hit a pothole and broke one, still Jones Springs of Wolverhampton made me a nice new pair for a reasonable price and now it drives much better.
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Bitumen Boy



Joined: 26 Jan 2012
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Location: Above the snow line in old Monmouthshire

PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray, what's corn head grease? Never heard of it before now.
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Penman



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 3981
Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
https://www.cenex.com/~/media/cenex/files/lubricants/cornhead%20grease/corn%20head%20grease_pds-h9-02.ashx

When I Googled for it I noticed that the John Deere brand Cropped Smile up a lot so that gives a clue to it's Major Smile uses.

Please excuse the punning. Very Happy
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
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Location: Derby

PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bitumen Boy wrote:
Ray, what's corn head grease? Never heard of it before now.


There is nothing special about corn head grease; in fact it is only suitable for low speed use so never put it in axles, gearboxes, etc.

What I can say is that it tends to stay put until heated so it is great for use it on winches, leaky steering boxes or in this case leaf springs. Farmers like it for their machinery.
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