Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Rick]

[split from the TA14 thread]

If anyone has some tips on restoring dried-out leather seats it'd merit it's own thread, the trim in my 10/4 is very dry and I'm not quite sure where to start with it. Product recommendations would be handy too, if anyone has any?

RJ
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[Timstopp]

Rick
I'll probably be shouted at, but the original leather on my 34 Wolseley was so dry and brittle it snapped like a Jacobs cracker if bent. It seems that kits that are available from the likes of woolies etc are really designed for leather that is newer and in better condition. Mine responded very well (this was after much experimentation) to Baby oil. A front seat squab will soak up 500ml of bay oil easily. This made it pliable again, repairs were made and then recoloured/refaced with the old standby of the shoepolish that comes in liguid form with a sponge applicator.

regards

tim
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North Essex,UK - Morris 8 tourer 1936 - Jaguar x350

[Rick]

Interesting stuff Tim thanks, I'll split this into it's own thread to save hijacking Jason's

Rick
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[Greeney in France]

I spent quite a few years working with leather and yes baby oil does work as well as anything in fact lanolin used to be used in the old days. The trouble being it has no drying agents and will stay oily for quite a long time also it has no "matting agents" and will get slippery especially on a car seat.
Very hard leather can have the fibres weakened too especially around stitched areas.
I no longer have my leather business but "Gliptone and woolies do some really good kits" Gliptone also do a very good hide conditioner which can be bought by the gallon if need be.
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[pigtin]

I had some stuff called 'Neats Foot Oil' that was supposed to be a 'leather food.' Used in on the 10/4 seats back in 85. Didn't seem to do any good and I've still got it.

Don.
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[ukdave2002]

Not so long ago there was an article in PC about an old small firm (1 man and a dog and a workshop) who did nothing but leather restoration stuff; and would also advise on specific problems, I'm sure they were in Gtr Mcr, will see if I can look it up if of any use?.

Dave

[Jason]

[Jason]

[Rich5ltr]

Interesting thread; the seats on my Aston are generally in good nick but hadn't been cleaned or treated for ages. So first I cleaned them with Autoglym leather cleaner, then I kept applying Autoglym leather food. I applied it copiously and repeated it every time I washed the car. After a bout 4 or 5 applications it had soaked up the whole bottle. I want to repair a small hole which has worn on the drivers side-bolster where people ease themselves in and out. Any tips for that? I've seen a leather repair kit advertised, is it any good?

Once that's repaired I will Gliptone them to get them nicely black again, and... apparently it smells nicely of leather.

[Greeney in France]

I have done the bolster repairs many times with patches and leather shavings, superglue and because of its locality it is only a temporary measure but it is by far the best method to actually take it to an upholsterer let them replace the single panel, it will cost you probably £150
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[Rich5ltr]

Indeed, I suspected that but was tempted by the miracle cure!

[Greeney in France]

There is no miracle cure I used to have to tell the "car dealers" the same
The best cure is not to neglect in the first place clean regularly dirt is a killer and acts like an abrasive I used to recommend a "wool washing product called snow flakes, it is very kind and doesn't contain the chemicals that dry out hide. Then use a good quality hide food.
I worked for many dealers including RRoyce and actually got a few of them to include it into their service schedule. I was also the only redresser and repairer that "Bristol cars" would use
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/hiderestoration/
This was my old site and then passed on to my cousin after I trained him up
I still sell my cream and cleaner on my classicallyfrench site
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[Keef]

[Glenn Crawford]

Several people whose opinions I trust have recomended the renovation kit that Woolies sell. No, not Woolworths, Woolies the well-known car trimming material suppliers, http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/. - Glenn

[KevF]

Guys,

Had plenty of work with interiors where the leather was damaged or needed a decent feed.

I have found this company very very helpful over the phone. If you call, try and speak with Ben. He is a knowledgable guy.

http://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/

This is a reply to a question to Ben about conditioning leather.
leather can be conditioned, it's just how, which is misleading.

The majority of leather in cars contains a PU finish, which seals the leather. This finish generally stops water being soaked into the leather, so it would also stop a cream, wax or whatever else is supposed to be absorbed.

These finishes are semi-absorbant and so they will take some moisture in, but just into the finish and not the leather - this serves no real purpose apart from to keep the finish clean and healthy!

Leather has a very high water content and needs that moisture to keep soft & supple. It gets that by absorbing water vapour in the air through the flesh (suede) side.

However, if incorrect cleaning products are used, or the leather is exposed to highs and lows of temperature it can 'dry out'. Re-introducing water to the flesh side and top coat side will help to soften the leather again, along with some flexing to work the moisture in.

Of course though, you can then get older leathers where the surface has cracked, its gone hard etc etc. In these cases I have found applying a wax or cream serves a great benefit to the texture and appearance of the leather.

There are quite a few variables when it comes to leather. It is for this reason we use an all in one conditioner & protector - something that is suitable in all instances.

To summarise;

1. If the leather is new and has a finish (lacquer), nothing is going to permeate the finish and so applying an old fashioned leather conditioner isn't going to do much at all. Instead a protector is best. or just a clean.
2. If the leather is old and cracked, apply a conditioner to improve it.
3. For absorbant leather (some furniture, clothes, handbags etc) it best to apply something that can be absorbed by the leather and so moisturise/condition it, and also protect it.
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