Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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MVPeters
Joined: 28 Aug 2008 Posts: 822 Location: Northern MA, USA
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Posted: Mon May 17, 2010 6:25 pm Post subject: |
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There have been several threads on Lucas voltage regulators & dynamos.
I came across an early Chilton's MG Midget etc manual last weekend at an 'Antique Flea Market' here in the USA. It's probably mid-60's, pale blue hard cover.
It has a great multi-page write-up on dynamos & the 2 & 3-bobbin regulators. I think everything you could need to know is there & I imagine the same pages would be in manuals for other cars from the same era.
A couple of things I'd forgotten is that you need to make adjustments quickly & then let everything stabilise for a few minutes or the coils overheat.
& that you'll get a very slightly higher voltage with the cover off.
A tiny, tiny adjustment of the set-screws will make a huge difference to the voltage.
Hope this helps.
(If you want the manual it'll probably still be there next weekend! $10 if I recall correctly).
Mike |
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Roger-hatchy
Joined: 07 Dec 2007 Posts: 2135 Location: Tiptree, Essex
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Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:28 am Post subject: |
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Hi Mike
Would be interested in the book, always interested in tech. books
Thought the charging was finally sorted, did about 100 mile run around yesterday, got caught out in a downpour, cockpit was dry till I had to stop for traffic in Dedham.
On the way home down the A12 not sure what speed but was keeping with the flow, speedo still way out, somewhere between 5 and 15 mph, depending on speed
As to the electrics, it seems to be playing up with regard to the Ammeter and ignition warning light.
All as expected at normal / half, revs. at higher revs. the ignition light flicker like mad and the ammeter swing over to full +30amp.
Checked the battery as soon as I got home, reading 13.57 volt and was not even warm.
Looks like I'll have to get another control box
Bit reluctant to do so as so far had three, one replacement, new lookalike, looked cheap and found to be so.
Two others, one still boxed, both Lucas and from the 50/60's. no magnetic pull on the bobbins on either
Think I'll have to strip and make a good one from what I have.
Roger |
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MVPeters
Joined: 28 Aug 2008 Posts: 822 Location: Northern MA, USA
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Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 3:18 am Post subject: |
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I'll be happy to grab the manual if it's still there next weekend. It'll probably end up costing you 10 quid with the postage.
But the point I was trying to make was that you should find the same pages in other Chilton's manuals from the same era - look around!
Here's what I would do:
Check the battery earth-to-chassis connection.
Check the engine block earth connection - best would be a strap between a starter motor bolt & the battery earth-to-chassis connection if that's convenient.
Then run down to the nearest junk yard & grab another regulator box off an A35 that's been sitting there for 25 years. (This might be easier said than done). Assume it works - maybe blow the dust out of it, but don't diddle with it!
Install it & make sure you've got a good earth connection.
Double-check that you've got the right wires in the right places - D B & I.
See what happens. If you still get a high charge/ignition light on at high revs, you've got a problem with the ignition switch or a high resistance somewhere in the circuit.
Mike |
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Roger-hatchy
Joined: 07 Dec 2007 Posts: 2135 Location: Tiptree, Essex
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Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 6:00 am Post subject: |
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That last remark about ignition switch
Might be worth bypassing the ignition switch and tape the wires together and check before I do anything else.
Only take a couple of minutes
One good thing about classic and vintage cars, you can get at, and see, the part in less than a day.
As my mate said, just minor problems now.
Roger
PS: as to the manual, I'll check my local library.
Have found some obscure tech manuals and books on the shelves before now, and they do a good search request service.
But thanks for the offer anyway. |
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