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Car-Nut
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 146 Location: Lancashire
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Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 2:07 pm Post subject: 420G Projects - order of works |
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In my project below my E was\is a very much a work in progress project which I fettle, polish, drive and show.
My next project which is looking like the powder blue 420G on the 420G forum. Will be the biggest project Ive ever taken on . I will certainly be picking a lot of people brains not just the Marque and Model owners but other Restoration enthusiasts.
My first is, is there a correct order for stripping them down before the bodywork is touched.
All tips and advice welcome, Ive read Amigos thread and a few others on the forum. But any valuable knowledge from the "old skool" restoration guys appreciated
_________________ Car-Nut
'62 S1 Jaguar E-Type 3.8 FHC
'70 420G - 13th from last RHD
'70 420G - 17th from last RHD |
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Nic Jarman
Joined: 05 Oct 2008 Posts: 1031 Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk
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Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 2:13 pm Post subject: |
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I like to keep them on their wheels for as long as possible. I do the engine first as it seems to make a lot of progress quickly. I love to fool myself. Good luck. _________________ 1936 Morris 8 Series 1
1973 MGB roadster
1977 MG Midget 1500
Dax Rush |
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22429 Location: UK
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victor 101
Joined: 03 Apr 2009 Posts: 446 Location: East Yorkshire
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Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 3:55 pm Post subject: |
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Along with lots of digital photos, label everthing you take of, store in strong boxes and mark the boxes so you dont have to rummage through them all to find the bits you want when you come to reassemble. |
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P3steve
Joined: 24 Nov 2007 Posts: 542 Location: Great Yarmouth, Norfolk
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Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 7:02 am Post subject: |
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Had a 63 3.8 Mk 10 a few years ago and changed a damaged door for a good nos one and couldn't believe just how many parts went into just something like the window frame and winder mechanism as well as the door catch and hinges there was spacers, screws springs and washers etc. As I was swapping it straight over I didn't record anything but it was a nightmare even trying to remember where it all went half an hour after taking the bits off so goodness knows how I would have got on after storing the bits for a year or so. So record everything with photo's and write it down as well, good luck and stick with it the Mk 10 420g is one heck of a car and despite its size can be really driven in a spirited way you have to drive one to know how good they really are. |
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pryantcc
Joined: 07 Sep 2009 Posts: 88
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Posted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 9:57 am Post subject: |
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Can I add that you should also take note of where you put the boxes which you have carefully labelled!
I'm 33 (so don't think I can credibly blame senility yet!) and in the process of restoring an Alvis. Recently, I'm learning that I should have taken more careful note of the places where I had stashed parts. I can't for the life of me find my handbrake cable, but can distinctly remember lubricating it not too long ago.
My method of attack was to completely strip the car and to restore as I re-assembled. Chassis first, then the axles/brake mechanisms (so I could get it rollling again!). Then the engine & box & Fuel tank so I could have the motivational benefit of starting it up! It then made sense to do the major wiring tasks while access was so good. The body was repaired and fitted next, & I'm almost at the stage where I will begin the task I like the least which will be trying to get it to a fit state for painting!
Enjoy! |
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michael1703
Joined: 22 Jul 2009 Posts: 349 Location: suffolk
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Posted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 9:33 pm Post subject: |
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i would do as follows
bonnet off,remove rad,propshaft,exhaust and all cables
strop the engine on the front eye only and you can withdraw the engine and box complete with the inlet manifold and starter motor etc in one go on your own
the inlet manifold is a pig to get off in situ so this saves time, you get a lot of weight out in one hit which makes it moveable/jackable and you dont have bits everywhere as theyre all pretty much one lump, you can even get it out with the downpipes on but its a bit trickier
now youve got the weight out, get it high on sturdy stands and drop the subframes out
rebuild the subframes
bare metal and paint and underseal the bits above the subframe
refit the (rebuilt) subframes with new rubbers
get the car up on 2 sets of ramps and attack the rest
get the underside spanking, run new fuel and brake lines and then get on with paint prep |
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baconsdozen
Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 1119 Location: Under the car.
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michael1703
Joined: 22 Jul 2009 Posts: 349 Location: suffolk
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Posted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 12:44 pm Post subject: |
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i did it that way once.... 16 years have gone by and it still isnt finished |
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Keith D
Joined: 16 Oct 2008 Posts: 1127 Location: Upper Swan, Western Australia
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Posted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 1:28 pm Post subject: |
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Car-Nut,
Some extremely good advice been given in this thread.
I have restored a few cars in my time so I guess I fit into the "old school"!
I would like to add something that doesn't seem to have got mentioned. It's called encouragement and enthusiasm. I would advise joining a Jaguar club and meeting people who can give you good Jaguar advice and plenty of encouragement. Believe me, you will need that. Just to be able to cry onto somebody's shoulder when things go wrong, is worth a lot! Many's the time that a fellow club member has lifted me from the depths of despair and got me enthusiastic and raring to continue!
When you have completed your restoration you have every right to feel extremely proud of your efforts and excited by the results. Anybody who has every restored a car will tell you that it is not easy. But it is certainly worth all the heartache and dedication!
Good luck - Keith |
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michael1703
Joined: 22 Jul 2009 Posts: 349 Location: suffolk
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Posted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 5:05 pm Post subject: |
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doesnt matter now as he has bought a nice car instead of a project |
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Nic Jarman
Joined: 05 Oct 2008 Posts: 1031 Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk
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Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 10:11 am Post subject: |
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Michael, stop posting and get on with that Rover. _________________ 1936 Morris 8 Series 1
1973 MGB roadster
1977 MG Midget 1500
Dax Rush |
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michael1703
Joined: 22 Jul 2009 Posts: 349 Location: suffolk
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Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 7:47 pm Post subject: |
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we found a good complete engine for the rover, its stripped out and on the car roller
I'm working on other cars and waiting for the customer to finish scraping the barnacles off it and then will blitz it
Its pretty good underneath, just needs sills which are only £25 each
http://s1007.photobucket.com/albums/af197/mpaclassics/FahimP5/ |
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Nic Jarman
Joined: 05 Oct 2008 Posts: 1031 Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk
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Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 10:43 am Post subject: |
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I hope they are not cardboard sills from Ebay. _________________ 1936 Morris 8 Series 1
1973 MGB roadster
1977 MG Midget 1500
Dax Rush |
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Car-Nut
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 146 Location: Lancashire
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Posted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 2:56 pm Post subject: |
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michael1703 wrote: | doesnt matter now as he has bought a nice car instead of a project |
Thanks for all the posting guys, as Michael said I didnt buy the project in the end the guy rung me up asking for more money after agreeing a price so i told him to keep it. Its still listed for sale.... so maybe he was being greedy
Ive found another car but due to being in Africa a while it wont be coming home till mid november.
Even though this car is a lot better condition, it isnt perfect and I will introduce her to the forum when its back home
Im already getting a list, wood to re varnish, front suspension, wheels need a refurb and engine detailing, the list goes on you know what its like
Once again thanks for everyones input before _________________ Car-Nut
'62 S1 Jaguar E-Type 3.8 FHC
'70 420G - 13th from last RHD
'70 420G - 17th from last RHD |
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