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Morris 8 coils and sparks
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steammart



Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 27

PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 6:09 pm    Post subject: Morris 8 coils and sparks Reply with quote

Hi

I have tried a few different way to get me morris 8 series one to give me a spark, but to no success. I have got a new coil, the distributor is all ok as far as i know. but cant get a new spark.

I have tried running a live directly to the coil and distributor but still no spark, any ideas please? Its driving me nuts Confused

Cheers

Martin
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Phil - Nottingham



Joined: 01 Jan 2008
Posts: 1252
Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Contact breakers dirty or LT lead to dizzy broken.
Condensor faulty or points fixing shorting is Dizzt a Lucas DKA with Bakelite baseplate as these have their peculiar problem
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steammart



Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 27

PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have a spark at the points, and there is a fibre washer under the points.

cheers
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Churchill Johnson



Joined: 11 Jan 2011
Posts: 359
Location: Rayleigh Essex

PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

have you tried removing the ign coil ht lead from the distributor cap and holding near to earth on the engine then open the points with the ign on and you should see a big spark from the coil lead if not have you replaced the coil recently if so is it the correct one, if you get a good spark then look very carefully at the cap is the centre carbon still in it, if ok the cap may be cracked.
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 22429
Location: UK

PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On a Volvo 121 I had years ago, from time to time it would just cut out. There'd be a spark at the points but nothing at the plugs. In the end I found that the centre bush in the dizzy cap was, over time, working its way back into the cap and losing touch with the rotor arm. A gentle pull against the spring that the bush is fitted to, would restore things.

RJ
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Nic Jarman



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 1031
Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk

PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 8 packed up and it was the condenser. Disconnect the condenser and the car should tick over but not much else. If it does not start then it is something else. I do not remember a fibre washer under the points but I will have a look. Do you have a multimeter?
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Nic Jarman



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 1031
Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk

PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK there is a large fibre washer under the moving bit of the points. If it is sparking then it is not shorted out. I could not get a decent condenser so I put an electronic ignition amplifier on my 8 so now it purrs like a kitten with a tin of nuts and bolts tied around its neck. Confused
Make sure the coil is wired the right way.

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steammart



Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 27

PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 12:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank to all those that replied, she is now a runner, even tho i had a spark at the points, they were not opening and closing correctly, so new points and a fiddle with the carb and he presto.

cheers

Martin
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Phil - Nottingham



Joined: 01 Jan 2008
Posts: 1252
Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My Rover P2 16 has the DKA6 dizzy and I had the same problem - the points heel was actually badly worn comparing to a new set and wax had leaked out of the condensor. It was also missing a parke every now and again causing a backfire
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Jim.Walker



Joined: 27 Dec 2008
Posts: 1229
Location: Chesterfield

PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A little late now probably. But the contact between the distributor body and engine block always seems to be overlooked.
Too much resistance will reduce sparking voltage at the coil. The MAXIMUM voltage drop between distributor body with ign. on and points closed should not exceed 0.2V. The same across the closed points. Anything more usually causes bad starting though the engine may run quite well once started because the battery voltage rises when the starter motor disengages.
There SHOULD NOT be much of a spark when the points are seperated manually. A "healthy" spark there usually means a very unheathy condenser.
The engine bonding (earth) link is also an ignition voltage killer, and a significant voltage drop between engine and battery represents voltage "robbed" from the ignition etc. while the starter is cranking the engine.
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