Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Castellated nut]

I just changed a couple of tyres on my 1934 Rover (4.75/5.00 x 18"). In the past I have balanced my wheels with home-made lead weights, but I'm wondering if it is a waste of time. Stiff springing and a large rolling radius mean the r.p.m of the wheels would never be likely to get close to the resonant frequency of the suspension (unless clearances on shackle-pins etc can be an issue).

Does anyone else bother to balance wheels of this sort of size?

Steve.

[Phil - Nottingham]

I never had on my 1938 Rover 16 with 17" wire spoke wheels and steering is vibration free at 60 mph.
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[Castellated nut]

I think you're right, Phil. I must admit I can't recall seeing balance weights on other pre-war wires.

[StoneRoad]

to mis-quote a mate...
suck it and see.

If you find that there is enough vibration to be a problem, then apply weights, if not - then you have saved some time and effort.....
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[peter scott]

Hi Steve,

I would say it's essential to balance wheels and brake drums.
See the last paras of this..
http://www.jaguardriverforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=97
(Sticky weights come in flat strips and you can chop them up as required and stick them on the flat areas on the inside of your wheels.)

Peter
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[Kelsham]

I agree it would be wise to have the wheels balanced.

I think you may have a problem with getting it done. The local tyre fitters wont look at my 19 inch wire wheels fitted to my BSA Trike.

I seem to recall that the Derby Bentleys used to have little cups fitted round the wheel rim that you could unscrew and load with lead.

A friend of mine sat for hours spinning the wheel on his Bentley and trying different weights. Very crude method but he claimed it worked.

Modern equipment should be more precise.

Regards Kels.

[Castellated nut]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I'll probably try it out unbalanced first though, to see how it feels.

The sticky weights look like a good idea, and a little easier than what I've done in the past. I attach the wheel to a spare hub/stub-axle assembly with well adjusted bearings and lubricated with oil. I balance the wheel with strips of lead flashing, then melt the lead into a suitable mould to cast a weight that I can clamp to the spoke nipples with self-tappers. Definitely sticky weights next time!

[Jim.Walker]

When I entered my apprenticeship in 1955 wheel balancing was almost unheard of until Mcpherson Strut front suspension was introduced. mostly on Fords.
Vehicles with high unsprung weights (the total mass which must be moved by road shocks etc.) are not likely to produce vibration at normal road speeds, though in later tyre life some uneven tread wear might be discernable.
The trouble with "home" balancing wheels is that only static balancing is possible to some degree and if the weights are put on one side of the wheel rim, or the wrong side of the wheel rim, dynamic imbalance can introduce wheel wobble felt through the steering wheel.
If wheels are to be balanced both static AND dynamic balanceing should be done. And that requires a dedicated machine.
Having said all that, I would not bother balancing on any vehicle built before about the mid 1950s and then only selectively for those with independent suspension and particularly McPherson Struts.
Jim.
By the way, you will be balancing the TYRES. Wheels are generally within balance limits unless damaged. Any other imbalance such as hubs and brake drums can only be done "on Car" and that means wheels cannot be swapped round or even turned on the studs without losing balance.
That kind of "balancing" is more akin to "tuning" by removing wheel tramp and wobbling effects.
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