Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 11794 Location: S. Cheshire
Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 11:12 pm Post subject:
Hi Dave, I suspect the MM diff isn't the same as on the 8 alas, I've been in touch with someone on the south coast who is, this evening, ferreting in his shed to see what diffs he has "in stock", so hopefully normal service will resume shortly......
RJ _________________ Rick (Admin. oldclassiccar.co.uk)
Various 1930s-1960s relics - Austin, Morris, Bedford, Dodge etc.
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 1725 Location: South Cheshire
Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 9:32 am Post subject:
Hi Rick
If you fail to get one, there is a one man firm in Oswestry (Eddie Wylde) who will probaably be able to sort you out, he has done a few conversions with mm's putting SE mechanical bits on, so will probably have some diffs.
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 11794 Location: S. Cheshire
Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 9:36 am Post subject:
ukdave2002 wrote:
Hi Rick
If you fail to get one, there is a one man firm in Oswestry (Eddie Wylde) who will probaably be able to sort you out, he has done a few conversions with mm's putting SE mechanical bits on, so will probably have some diffs.
Dave
Aye I know who you mean, I've had a few bits from him in the past. If nothing comes of the diff down south I'll give Wyvern a try
cheers, RJ _________________ Rick (Admin. oldclassiccar.co.uk)
Various 1930s-1960s relics - Austin, Morris, Bedford, Dodge etc.
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 11794 Location: S. Cheshire
Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 12:45 pm Post subject:
Grrrrrrrrr update time:
So, this morning, wheels off, diff drained, the prop was removed, and the diff prepared for pulling out. With everything ready to remove the diff, all I had to do was pull the shafts out again. Nearside one withdrew fine. Pull the offside driveshaft out and - whooops - off comes the end, much to my amazement.
I'd had both driveshafts out at least twice, maybe three times, and they'd both withdrawn perfectly. There were no visible clues that the problem lay with the offside shaft, yet pull it out again this morning, and apart it came. It has split at the hub end, across a locating pin. How it came out successfully on the previous occasions, and not today, I've no idea. Turn the remains of the shaft and it locates within the diff fine, so all along the problem was (hidden away til today) at the hub end, where it had sheared.
My first guess was that a shaft had gone, turns out that's what it was!
Time for some re-assembly and to make some enquiries for a replacement shaft. Pics later.
RJ _________________ Rick (Admin. oldclassiccar.co.uk)
Various 1930s-1960s relics - Austin, Morris, Bedford, Dodge etc.
Joined: 11 Jan 2011 Posts: 261 Location: Rayleigh Essex
Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:40 pm Post subject:
Looking at the photo's that looks a design flaw putting a pin through a drive shaft is asking for trouble. I would have a word with the manufacture's if i was you .
Joined: 28 Aug 2008 Posts: 378 Location: Northern MA, USA
Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 5:21 am Post subject:
Serious:
Is it possible to weld broken driveshafts?
Not Serious:
& since nobody ever looks at the subject of photos, but comments on all the neat stuff in the background, where did you get that beach towel? I'd really like one like that. _________________ Mike
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 11794 Location: S. Cheshire
Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 8:59 am Post subject:
MVPeters wrote:
Serious:
Is it possible to weld broken driveshafts?
Not Serious:
& since nobody ever looks at the subject of photos, but comments on all the neat stuff in the background, where did you get that beach towel? I'd really like one like that.
There are two in the garage, I'll send you one I think you'd end up grubbier than you were before if you tried using either of them though.
Annoying I'd removed the prop, loosened the diff etc before the shaft came apart. It took ages to re-fit the prop, it is solid prop with spiders and flexible couplings at either end, getting it back in place involved unbolting the back axle and shifting it back, just to get some clearance.
I've read of people converting to a "proper" two-piece propshaft, with U/Js rather than cheapo flexi couplings, I might look into that sometime.
RJ _________________ Rick (Admin. oldclassiccar.co.uk)
Various 1930s-1960s relics - Austin, Morris, Bedford, Dodge etc.
Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 634 Location: Bothwell, Scotland
Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 12:33 pm Post subject:
Rick,
I'm a bit confused at what I'm looking at here. Is the pin the only thing that's transmitting the drive to the rear wheel? I would have thought that the piece lying on the ground should have splines on it to connect with the half shaft. Am I missing something?
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 11794 Location: S. Cheshire
Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 2:03 pm Post subject:
47Jag wrote:
Rick,
I'm a bit confused at what I'm looking at here. Is the pin the only thing that's transmitting the drive to the rear wheel? I would have thought that the piece lying on the ground should have splines on it to connect with the half shaft. Am I missing something?
Art
I could be wrong, but I think it is just a pressed fit with the pin as a backup...could be wrong mind
RJ _________________ Rick (Admin. oldclassiccar.co.uk)
Various 1930s-1960s relics - Austin, Morris, Bedford, Dodge etc.
Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 634 Location: Bothwell, Scotland
Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 9:12 pm Post subject:
Rick,
Why dont you pull the other side and compare? I would think that the part on the floor has stripped the splines from itself and the axle. It looks like you have a fully floating axle there with the bearing in the part that's still on the car. In truck applications where fully floating axles are the norm, the part that's on the floor would be forged as part of the half shaft. However a male/female spline would serve the same purpose. Asking a little pin to transmit the torque of your mighty 8 horsepower engine is not very good engineering. Don't forget that the torque gets multiplied by whatever gear ratio you are in and again by the rear axle ratio which on the Morris is about 5:1. I would guess you have about 30lbs/ft max (say 20 at 1000rpm). Picking away in 1st gear you might be looking at 400lbs/ft on the half shaft.
That's my theory, but I'm prepared to be proven wrong
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 11794 Location: S. Cheshire
Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 1:14 pm Post subject:
I'll clean the rogue one up and have a proper look at it. A replacement s/h one arrived in the post yesterday, so this morning saw it back on, fresh oil in the diff, and a test run out to visit buzzy working on his steamer. Touch wood normal service is resumed (famous last words)
R _________________ Rick (Admin. oldclassiccar.co.uk)
Various 1930s-1960s relics - Austin, Morris, Bedford, Dodge etc.
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