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1934 Morris Minor
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 13972
Location: S. Cheshire

PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Dave, I suspect the MM diff isn't the same as on the 8 alas, I've been in touch with someone on the south coast who is, this evening, ferreting in his shed to see what diffs he has "in stock", so hopefully normal service will resume shortly......

RJ
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Rick (Admin. oldclassiccar.co.uk)
Various 1930s-1960s relics - Austin, Morris, Bedford, Dodge etc.
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 2317
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Rick

If you fail to get one, there is a one man firm in Oswestry (Eddie Wylde) who will probaably be able to sort you out, he has done a few conversions with mm's putting SE mechanical bits on, so will probably have some diffs.

Dave
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 13972
Location: S. Cheshire

PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ukdave2002 wrote:
Hi Rick

If you fail to get one, there is a one man firm in Oswestry (Eddie Wylde) who will probaably be able to sort you out, he has done a few conversions with mm's putting SE mechanical bits on, so will probably have some diffs.

Dave


Aye I know who you mean, I've had a few bits from him in the past. If nothing comes of the diff down south I'll give Wyvern a try

cheers, RJ
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Rick (Admin. oldclassiccar.co.uk)
Various 1930s-1960s relics - Austin, Morris, Bedford, Dodge etc.
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 2317
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nic Jarman wrote:
Dave, so far my diff is OK. Is it an all steel diff that is more reliable or does it have just the front part that is alloy?


Hi Nic

To be honest I don't know! I presume its the diff carrier, can ask on the M8 forum.

Dave
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Rick
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Location: S. Cheshire

PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A diff arrived in the post this week, all being well I'll get it fitted and tested this weekend....

RJ
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Rick (Admin. oldclassiccar.co.uk)
Various 1930s-1960s relics - Austin, Morris, Bedford, Dodge etc.
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Rick
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Location: S. Cheshire

PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grrrrrrrrr update time:

So, this morning, wheels off, diff drained, the prop was removed, and the diff prepared for pulling out. With everything ready to remove the diff, all I had to do was pull the shafts out again. Nearside one withdrew fine. Pull the offside driveshaft out and - whooops - off comes the end, much to my amazement.

I'd had both driveshafts out at least twice, maybe three times, and they'd both withdrawn perfectly. There were no visible clues that the problem lay with the offside shaft, yet pull it out again this morning, and apart it came. It has split at the hub end, across a locating pin. How it came out successfully on the previous occasions, and not today, I've no idea. Turn the remains of the shaft and it locates within the diff fine, so all along the problem was (hidden away til today) at the hub end, where it had sheared.

My first guess was that a shaft had gone, turns out that's what it was!

Time for some re-assembly and to make some enquiries for a replacement shaft. Pics later.

Rolling Eyes

RJ
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Rick (Admin. oldclassiccar.co.uk)
Various 1930s-1960s relics - Austin, Morris, Bedford, Dodge etc.
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Rick
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Location: S. Cheshire

PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some recent photos. A replacement driveshaft has been located, so as soon as that gets here I can return the MM to frontline duties once more.





RJ
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buzzy bee



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 3403
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Sounds a bit of a pain! I supose at least it did come apart, before swapping the diff and still finding an issue, saved a little work maybe.

Cheers

Dave
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Churchill Johnson



Joined: 11 Jan 2011
Posts: 278
Location: Rayleigh Essex

PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking at the photo's that looks a design flaw putting a pin through a drive shaft is asking for trouble. I would have a word with the manufacture's if i was you Laughing Laughing.
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MVPeters



Joined: 28 Aug 2008
Posts: 393
Location: Northern MA, USA

PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 5:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Serious:
Is it possible to weld broken driveshafts?

Not Serious:
& since nobody ever looks at the subject of photos, but comments on all the neat stuff in the background, where did you get that beach towel? I'd really like one like that.
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Mike
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
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Location: S. Cheshire

PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MVPeters wrote:
Serious:
Is it possible to weld broken driveshafts?

Not Serious:
& since nobody ever looks at the subject of photos, but comments on all the neat stuff in the background, where did you get that beach towel? I'd really like one like that.


There are two in the garage, I'll send you one Laughing I think you'd end up grubbier than you were before if you tried using either of them though.

Annoying I'd removed the prop, loosened the diff etc before the shaft came apart. It took ages to re-fit the prop, it is solid prop with spiders and flexible couplings at either end, getting it back in place involved unbolting the back axle and shifting it back, just to get some clearance.

I've read of people converting to a "proper" two-piece propshaft, with U/Js rather than cheapo flexi couplings, I might look into that sometime.

RJ
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47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
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Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rick,

I'm a bit confused at what I'm looking at here. Is the pin the only thing that's transmitting the drive to the rear wheel? I would have thought that the piece lying on the ground should have splines on it to connect with the half shaft. Am I missing something?

Art
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Rick
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Location: S. Cheshire

PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

47Jag wrote:
Rick,

I'm a bit confused at what I'm looking at here. Is the pin the only thing that's transmitting the drive to the rear wheel? I would have thought that the piece lying on the ground should have splines on it to connect with the half shaft. Am I missing something?

Art


I could be wrong, but I think it is just a pressed fit with the pin as a backup...could be wrong mind Smile

RJ
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Rick (Admin. oldclassiccar.co.uk)
Various 1930s-1960s relics - Austin, Morris, Bedford, Dodge etc.
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47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 791
Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rick,

Why dont you pull the other side and compare? I would think that the part on the floor has stripped the splines from itself and the axle. It looks like you have a fully floating axle there with the bearing in the part that's still on the car. In truck applications where fully floating axles are the norm, the part that's on the floor would be forged as part of the half shaft. However a male/female spline would serve the same purpose. Asking a little pin to transmit the torque of your mighty 8 horsepower engine is not very good engineering. Don't forget that the torque gets multiplied by whatever gear ratio you are in and again by the rear axle ratio which on the Morris is about 5:1. I would guess you have about 30lbs/ft max (say 20 at 1000rpm). Picking away in 1st gear you might be looking at 400lbs/ft on the half shaft.

That's my theory, but I'm prepared to be proven wrong Smile

Still getting the sever errors. 3 goes to submit

Art
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Rick
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Location: S. Cheshire

PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll clean the rogue one up and have a proper look at it. A replacement s/h one arrived in the post yesterday, so this morning saw it back on, fresh oil in the diff, and a test run out to visit buzzy working on his steamer. Touch wood normal service is resumed (famous last words)

R
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