Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Roger-hatchy]

I am now having problems with the charging on the DLM

Is it possible for the ignition switch to cause a problem with the charging

I have a c39 dynamo with a two bobbin control box, 106 I think, the five connection type.

I also have the combined ignition and light switch, but the modern copy of the old classic style.

Last run out the ignition light came on and I am now getting no charging.
The Dynamo is OK.
I have just got hold of another control box, well two one with spade and the other screw terminals.

The previous new/replacement, made in china I suspect, control box had burnt out and shorted out.

One of the boxes just bought was still boxed and new from the 60's.
Have cleaned up the contacts with fine wet and dry 2600.

Am I supposed to have a reading on any of the terminals when the ignition is off but the battery connected.
I have one all the time then two when ignition on.
Should I get a reading at the dynamo with ignition on but engine dead.

Bloody annoying as I was supposed to be taking the car to Lincolnshire tomorrow and the earliest the local electric ion can look at it is next Friday.


If its the ignition switch I can fit a hidden push/pull switch behind the pedals.

Roger

[Roger-hatchy]

PS
The car starts, runs and stops from the ignition switch

[47Jag]

Roger,

Are you sure the dynamo is OK? Short the D & F terminals together and rev the engine a bit. Does the light go out? If yes, it's the regulator. Have you checked the points in the regulator. With the terminals facing you, the right bobbin is the regulator and the left is the cut out. If you decide to try and clean the point be sure to keep the gap. I just 'crack' the locknut and unscrew the points complete with the nut (make sure it doesn't change position). Have a look and see if it's bright clean. If it needs cleaning give it a rub with the finest of sandpaper. 1000 grit if you have it. Screw the contact back in and when the nut bottoms, nip it tight again You should recheck the setting once it's back together. Set the regulator with the cutout points isulated (a bit of thin card between) to 16 volts.

Art

[Roger-hatchy]

Thanks Art

I'll give it a go
I have some ??flower paper??, that's what Dad called it, about 2600 grit

Thing is one of the control boxes I think has not been used, was still the original box, all be it opened.

I will have a go at cleaning the poinnt as well.

I knew it all went back together too quick

[Roger-hatchy]

Well the dynamo is OK, the light goes out, and the ammeter shows a good charge.

With the cutout isolated should the regulator points close, and presume you adjust with the screw on the back of the thick plate, the one that moves a spring.

Otherwise there looks like no other screws to adjust the regulator.

[Roger-hatchy]

Looks like a boring trip to Woodhal Spa this weekend.

Still no luck, one burnt out control box, that was the newly built replacement.
Bloody tinware and plastic.

Bought two this morning, both from the 50/60's both look new, one was still in original box. and at £15 a bargain
Have done the checks as suggested, with both after cleaning everything and checking gaps.

The cutout dose not click over even when the engine is revved.

Shorted out the D and F terminals, light out and ammeter in the +

Run out of time, packing to do for an early start in the morning

Rob is going to look out for a dynamo at the Battlesbridge rally on Sunday

Back on the job next week

Roger

[47Jag]

Roger,

You've proved the dynamo is OK so your problem is with the regulator.

The regulator points should be closed. The regulator works by connecting the D & F terminals. As the voltage rises it will pull on the regulator coil and open the contacts. It will do this on/off all the time the engine is running thus regulating the voltage. It sounds like the point are needing attention (both sides). The adjuster is the screw with the co-axial spring.

Art

[Roger-hatchy]

Have finally been put on a charge

First replacement (re manufactured) that was bought from a supposedly reputable supplier burnt out, cheap and nasty, coils are loose on the bobbins tinplate contacts etc.

Bought a couple of old originals, one still in box.
Cleaned both, checked gaps, no magnetic pull on either coils on either.

Rechecked and cleaned the old RF95 that I was replacing due to redundant connections, and the 106 looked neater, so I thought.

Replaced the RF95 into the circuit, had to reset the out-put voltage, so far so good.

Now find I have an oil leak around the bell housing, oil is not stained and smells like gear oil so suspect the gearbox oil seal.

Roger

[petelang]

I recall that if you fit a new regulator to a vehicle which has not had the dynamo "polarised" it can result in the cut our bobbin points chattering which burns them out. So, before fitting a new reg, power the dynamo from a battery supply the same polarity as the car. B+ bridged D to F and run for a few seconds. Then it should be OK.
Its been 38 years since I last did this so I might b wrong but it was considered important when I was a sprogging apprentice, I recall the slap!

[Roger-hatchy]

Good point, no pun intended, Pete.

I will check again and repolorise the dynamo, I thought we had done that but it might have been missed.

The contact that had burnt out on the lookalike though was the regulator, and with the two lucas 106 originals there is no magnetic pull, even with a thin feeler guage as the test item.

Also could this, 'polarity', be the reason for the full + amp reading and the flickering ignition light at anything over fast tickover that started to show itself yesterday.

I am reluctant to convert to alternator, even though I have two lying about in the garage.

Mind you with a hybrid bitsa like this, what is original?

Roger

[captain bobo]

Hi, what was the outcome of your charging problem?

I've spent the last year troublshooting dynamo charging issues & the first thing that struck me was thet the RF95 and the 106 have differnt current ratings.

Hopefully you'll have solved the problem, in which case I'd love to know how it worked out.

If it's still a problem maybe this forum can come up with other ideas?

Best wishes, dave B
_________________
1937 Daimler 15 Mulliner Sports Saloon & 1969 Daimler V8 250 Saloon

[Roger-hatchy]

Sorry for not coming back on this.

No problems now.

I have five so called ?replacement? control boxes. tinplate crap, sitting on the shelf

Ended up with a second hand one from a local junk yard, the real old style yard, recommended by a local greengrocer :lol, if he ain't got it no one has, place.

From engines to lawn mowers, sowing machines to farm and blacksmith tools.A real old world trader as well, he knows were everything is without any inventory, books or otherwise.


Also added a new set of brushes in the generator.
Now get a good charge even at night with lights on.

Car is laid up at the moment, re-doing the paintwork, rushed it last time.
35 years in boxes and excitement took over, you could see, in certain light, that the prep was rushed.

[Roger-hatchy]

I seem to recall it's know as Jacks.

This is just a tiny corner, and only a small part of the frontage