Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 639 Location: Hampshire UK
Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 5:56 pm Post subject:
Yes I managed a Motor Factors for 10 years, and the battery manufacturers always advised us to keep the batteries on pallets
rather than on the concrete floors (Tungston, Exide & Bosch)
There is also a theory I came across suggesting that capacitive discharge leakage takes place. The theory suggests that the battery base acts as a dielectric layer and, of course, the battery itself is charged positively compared to the ground (concrete).
Regardless of whether or not this theory is true, I've conducted elementary tests in my garage. After fully charging, I put one battery on the concrete floor, the other on a shelf. I then fully recharge them after the one on the floor drains & then swap them over. It's always the one on the floor that drains first.
The concrete is inevitable colder than the ambient air temperature in the garage, but that's about the only other variable I can think of.
The last battery that I purchased had an enclosed warning leaflet telling me not to keep the it on the ground in storage. Didn't explain why though.
Best wishes, Dave B _________________ 1937 Daimler 15 Mulliner Sports Saloon & 1969 Daimler V8 250 Saloon
Joined: 19 Mar 2008 Posts: 297 Location: Kelvin Valley,Scotland
Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 5:39 pm Post subject:
baconsdozen wrote:
A lot of the jump leads on sale are hopeless for starting anything where the battert is flat.It really is a case of buying the best you can,heavy thick copper cables and really strong clamps.
I've seen some imported things where the thin aluminium cables are simply pushed into the end of the clamps which are then squeezed shut probably with a pair of pliers.They get hot as soon as any real current is put through them.
You get what you pay for.
I got a pair of jumper leads more years ago than I like to remember which (still)take two hands to open the clamps - used to complain about that but they are still going strong,cheers,JD. _________________ Use 'em or lose 'em.
1960 Ford Zephyr.
1968 Triumph 2000.
Joined: 30 Sep 2008 Posts: 515 Location: South East Wales
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 7:04 pm Post subject:
My Range Rover has been a bit reluctant to go in the mornings, although the battery is only two years old, with a four year guarantee. I recently had to leave it for a week, so charged it up, then disconnected it, but left it on the car. On my return, I connected it up, but it was too low to start the car. I took it back to my supplier with the receipt, but he said that of course it would go flat after a week, and refused to honour the guarantee!
My Vovo has a seven-year old battery on it, and is often left for six weeks and still fires instantly.
I've since bought a new battery from a different supplier, and I'm still debating whether or not to bother taking the case further.
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 11730 Location: S. Cheshire
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 7:09 pm Post subject:
Our Volvo sometimes struggles a bit after sub-zero nights, I put a solar trickle charger on it and it seems (touch wood) fine. Not a proper solution I know, but it seems to be enough.
R _________________ Rick (Admin. oldclassiccar.co.uk)
Various 1930s-1960s relics - Austin, Morris, Bedford, Dodge etc.
Joined: 27 Dec 2008 Posts: 1116 Location: Chesterfield
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 11:32 pm Post subject:
One thing not mentioned, which I have come across several times, is that the battery terminals to main leads can be unable to handle starter current which can be as high as 200 Amps.
Typically, when this happens everything works until the starter operates (or rather doesn't).
The fault usually generates a lot if heat at the bad connection which can be detected by touch. CAREFULLY because fingers can be burnt.
Jim. _________________ Quote from my late Dad:- You only need a woman and a car and you have all the problems you
are ever likely to want". Computers had not been invented then!
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