Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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alec.elliot
Joined: 28 Feb 2012
Posts: 58
Location: Worcestershire
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 Posted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 2:23 pm Post subject: JWL Sodablaster |
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Hi there
Any idea where I could get on of these in the UK? I tried the factory in Denmark and they referred me to their Distributor in the UK. (Snap On in Corby.)
One of their guys told me that they were not really doing them and it was only a trial product. I got the impression that thought that I was a trade customer and would be buying hundreds.
All the best
Alec |
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Vifa
Joined: 27 Jul 2011
Posts: 21
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| Posted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 10:51 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Alec,
I received mine last friday from a distributor in Denmark (I live in Denmark btw), but I haven't had time to try it yet - will upload pics and comments when I do 
It is a new product, that could probably be why - otherwise I guess you have to order from Denmark. |
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Vifa
Joined: 27 Jul 2011
Posts: 21
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| Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 1:48 pm Post subject: |
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Hi guys,
I think the soda gun is perfect for light restoration. Unfortunately I couldn't use it in my car as it was to much a mess with all the powder. I will upload some before/after pictures later
Anyway, I had to use an angle grinder and wire wheels insted. I am currently working on it, and need some inputs/advice.
I am not sure when I should consider a rust spot critical. I have already dealed with the big spot I had at the left door, you can see this in the picture right here:
But I have some spots different places at the floor, that I am not sure whether or not I should remove. You can see these in this picture, where I have marked them with a black pen:
How should I treat these two areas ? By completly grind them or partially ?
Any help is appreciated |
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Vifa
Joined: 27 Jul 2011
Posts: 21
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| Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 2:26 pm Post subject: |
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| .. as you can see in the picture the two area consist of many small spots. But I am not sure if I should just grind the small spots or just the whole area. |
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Bitumen Boy
Joined: 26 Jan 2012
Posts: 1763
Location: Above the snow line in old Monmouthshire
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| Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 4:33 pm Post subject: |
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| The wire wheel for the angle grinder is a good tool for this kind of work - stick with it. Basically if you can see a rust spot, go at it until all the rust is gone. Indeed, if there's any little marks in the paint you're not sure about, do the same thing, as there could be more rust lurking underneath. It's not as if the appearance is a huge worry when you're working in the footwell and it's not really any more work afterwards whether you're painting 2 patches or 20 in the same area. Some form of chemical rust treatment is a good idea before painting, but not knowing what you can or can't get hold of locally I can't really advise on which to use... |
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Kelsham
Joined: 18 Jan 2009
Posts: 349
Location: Llandrindod Wells Powys
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| Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 4:34 pm Post subject: |
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I would use a polycarbide disc and clean the whole area off. After allit is easier to paint a big area than try to dab at small spots of rust.
After mechanically cleaning the area use a rust treatment, or rust convertor. Then prime and paint.
If you do it carefully you can stop any further outbreaks.
Regards Kels. |
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Vifa
Joined: 27 Jul 2011
Posts: 21
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| Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 5:13 pm Post subject: |
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Hi, thanks for the quick responses
I am able to get almost any product available. Right now I have WD40 and CRC SP 350. WD40 is very good for cleaning rust, but enamel paint is very sensitive to alcohol, and I am not sure if WD40 contains any kind of this. If so I just have to be careful not hitting other good areas on the car
I am not much a fan of rust convertors, but what should I use before I prime ? |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4326
Location: South Cheshire
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| Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 6:13 pm Post subject: |
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| Vifa wrote: | Hi, thanks for the quick responses
I am able to get almost any product available. Right now I have WD40 and CRC SP 350. WD40 is very good for cleaning rust, but enamel paint is very sensitive to alcohol, and I am not sure if WD40 contains any kind of this. If so I just have to be careful not hitting other good areas on the car
I am not much a fan of rust convertors, but what should I use before I prime ? |
No no no!!, don't introduce anything like WD40 on things you need to paint, it will affect the quality of the paint adhesion, when you paint a car one of the big problems is oil on the surface.
If you can get an angle grinder with a 40 grit disc and clean back to bright steel, or 40 grit paper by hand and clean back to bright steel. Then use some 40% phosphoric acid, on the clean steel before you prime. If you can't clean to bright steel; apply the same phosphoric acid to the rust, leave it for 20 min's, clean with water and then use some more 40 grit to clean, the phosphoric acid will convert rust to black ferric phosphate, this is more brittle than rust (ferrous oxide) so easier to clean with a wire brush or 40 grit paper (you may need to do this a few times).
Google or ebay phosphoric acid, it will cost about £20 for 5L (about 100 times cheaper than the propitiatory rust converters !)
Dave |
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Vifa
Joined: 27 Jul 2011
Posts: 21
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| Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 6:41 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Dave, that is good to know !
Have you seen the earlier attached picture above ? I got down to bright steel only on half of it, the rest was also down to the metal but still black and with a lot of small pits. So I should use phosphoric acid till I get it bright ? |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4326
Location: South Cheshire
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| Posted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 9:41 am Post subject: |
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| Vifa wrote: | Hi Dave, that is good to know !
Have you seen the earlier attached picture above ? I got down to bright steel only on half of it, the rest was also down to the metal but still black and with a lot of small pits. So I should use phosphoric acid till I get it bright ? |
If you can get it bright, great if there are pits, treat with phosphoric acid, clean making sure there is no loose stuff, and prime with an epoxy primer. Epoxy primer unlike most other primers doesn't absorb moisture, so no oxygen can get to the metal, no oxygen means the steel can't corrode 
Epoxy primer is good for projects where the gloss is not going on straight away, many a great paint job has been ruined months later because the panel was just left in primer (or filler) too long, and the primer has absorbed moisture. Months / years later small bubbles begin to appear in the paint 
Polyester spray filler is the worst for absorbing moisture; my local paint supplier was telling me of a bloke that used it to avoid having to block/stopper his car as part of a respray, he left it for 6 days before the gloss went on, 2 weeks later the car looked as if it had bumper to bumper acne 
Dave |
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Kelsham
Joined: 18 Jan 2009
Posts: 349
Location: Llandrindod Wells Powys
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| Posted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 9:57 am Post subject: |
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Dave is giving good advice, I usually use Jenolite and a small wire brush after using a Polycarbide disc.
I keep applying Jenolite and vigorously scrubbing with the wire brush.
If you clean the surface from time to time, when the Jenolite stops turning brown you are there.
The non porous primer is a good idea, I still have stocks of Bonda primer so that is what I use.
Regards Kels. |
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Vifa
Joined: 27 Jul 2011
Posts: 21
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| Posted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 10:25 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for all the good advice
Work will continue today. Updates coming later |
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Vifa
Joined: 27 Jul 2011
Posts: 21
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| Posted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 4:44 pm Post subject: |
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Hi guys,
It is nearly impossible to buy phosphoric acid anywhere around me, would oxalic acid work ? Or perhaps lemon acid ? |
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colwyn500
Joined: 21 Oct 2012
Posts: 1745
Location: Nairn, Scotland
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| Posted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 5:22 pm Post subject: |
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| Vifa wrote: | Hi guys,
It is nearly impossible to buy phosphoric acid anywhere around me, would oxalic acid work ? Or perhaps lemon acid ? |
Are you in the UK Vifa? If so there are many outlets that sell phosphoric based products eg.Halfords and other motor factors. In the UK you can get it cheapest from farm supply outlets; it is used for cleaning out the tanks and supply lines of milking equipment. Try Ebay, you will see lots of suppliers with different strengths and volumes. Some of them supply crystals of the stuff and many supply it technically as an acidifier for water as used in pools and in hydroponic horticulture (incidentally this is often for cultivating cannabis and the auctions are anonymous).
I have used oxalic, bought in crystal form, as an excellent internal cleaner for an old engine block and radiator. It cleared out the rusty gunk without hurting the steel, so perhaps it would work on external steel.
If you mean citric acid..it might take a long time but would certainly smell nice. Also, it,s not an "old wife's tale", cola drink will work eventually. |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4326
Location: South Cheshire
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| Posted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 5:26 pm Post subject: |
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Any body shop will supply it. Or you can buy it on eBay. Are you located within the EU ?
Dave |
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