Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

Roger-hatchy · Joined: 07 Dec 2007 Posts: 2135 Location: Tiptree, Essex

The DLM has for some time now overheated for about fifteen to twenty minutes then settles in to a steady temp. about 75 to 80 degrees.

After I set out for a run after about 10 minutes the Temp gauge reads 100 - 105 and the electric fan is running, it kicks in at 90.
If I carry on driving, and ignore the temp gauge, after fifteen to twenty minutes the temperature drops to a running figure of 75 to 80 degrees and stay around that figure, even after a couple of hours run.

I have just had the radiator recored and upgraded, developed a few leaks and as the repair would have been close to the upgrade price I got it done.

Had a look at the old core, it was a wonder the water didn't keep boiling.

The water pump has also been rebuilt at the time of restoration.

Even with the new? radiator it still plays this silly game.

Doesn't lose any water.

Any thoughts anyone.

Roger

Bayliss Thomas · Joined: 25 Sep 2009 Posts: 557 Location: SUFFOLK

Check for an air-lock, this may push through after running and then things settle down.

victor 101 · Joined: 03 Apr 2009 Posts: 446 Location: East Yorkshire

Thermostat?

Roger-hatchy · Joined: 07 Dec 2007 Posts: 2135 Location: Tiptree, Essex

Good point Victor, But it's a Ford E93a engine.

Air lock ?, might be.
Heaven knows how many times the coolant has been emptied and replaced over last year.

Have to find a way to try and bleed it.

Basic loop system.

Roger

Jim.Walker · Joined: 27 Dec 2008 Posts: 1229 Location: Chesterfield

Sounds like a sticking thermostat to me. One which eventually opens fully when the water pump goes fast enough to induce the flow to help it open fully.
You may be able to see if it sticks by warming it in a pot with a thermometer, but then again you may not. Of course replacing it will answer the question anyway while dismantled.
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Churchill Johnson · Joined: 11 Jan 2011 Posts: 359 Location: Rayleigh Essex

Unless my memory is playing tricks this engine [E93a] never had a water pump or a thermostat it was thermo-syphon system and this type will get hot until it settles at a even temp, if its not losing coolant i would tend to just keep an eye on it.

Roger-hatchy · Joined: 07 Dec 2007 Posts: 2135 Location: Tiptree, Essex

As you say C.J. thermo syphon.
But a water pump is a conversion, aspecialy if the engine is tuned.
The DLM has been well tuned.

I have grown to live with it as there is no loss of coolant.
I just take it easy for the first half hour or so, and as you say keep an eye on it.

Didn't realise that a thermo system did this.
Something learnt every day.

Jim.Walker · Joined: 27 Dec 2008 Posts: 1229 Location: Chesterfield

Roger-hatchy · Joined: 07 Dec 2007 Posts: 2135 Location: Tiptree, Essex

Sorry for the late update.
I think it must have been an air lock problem.
After fitting the re-cored radiator I filled it with plain water to run and check all was OK.
After a short run,and a repeat of the old heating problem, I drained and flushed out the sytem, refilled including the anifreeze.
This time it was filled using a litre bottle so it was filled slowly this time.
After a nearly two hundred miles I am happy to.report that the temperature is more stable than it has ever been, and the re-core looks the same as the old unit.

Roger

exbmc · Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 3:13 pm Post subject: Cooling system

Many years ago, a friend where I worked bought a Ford E93A engined special. It was an Ashley I think? Anyway, to get the rad and engine in, the top hose had to take a very downhill run. When he first had it, overheating was a problem, probably why it was sold anyway? Spares and "goodies" for these engines were plentiful then, and a water pump was obtained and fitted.
Can't remember a thermostat, but after fitting the pump, no more temperature problems at all. Lots of us used to go on camping trips, about 8 cars in a convoy, and the Ashley (?) was one of the most reliable!

Roger-hatchy · Joined: 07 Dec 2007 Posts: 2135 Location: Tiptree, Essex

As can be seen the top hose is horizontal.
The water pump can be seen below the generater.
No thermostat.

It had an Aquaplane head but this was too far gone for a repair.
A standard head was fitted, minus 20 thou skim, to get the vehicle on the road.
It motors on well enough for it's age and can suprise a lot of people, keeps with the traffic so I might save the money for something else.

Penman · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4755 Location: Swindon, Wilts.

hi
The top hose is actually vertical, the horizontal bit just means that you have a bigger than normal header tank. Very Happy

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Roger-hatchy · Joined: 07 Dec 2007 Posts: 2135 Location: Tiptree, Essex

Took a while to realise what you meant Laughing

roverdriver · Posted: Wed May 25, 2011 10:39 am Post subject:

Just a thought, but as the pump appears to be on the 'cool' side of the circuit, is it possible that the pump is pushing water into the radiator rather than into the engine block?

If that was happening you would have the pump fighting the thermosyphon.

Many engines managed very well without a pump at all- thermosyphon is quite an efficient cooling method on its own.
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alapimba · Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 181

how the thermosyphon works?
i have a sidevalve engine but didn't realized how it works and how to check if it's working as it should before overheat the engine.

anyone can explains?