Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[clascar]

I have just found out that my local refinishers, Nyphos at Crewe no longer plate cast ally items (mazak or monkey metal). He tells me that there is so much work in trrying to get rid of the pits. The results are usually so disappointing that he no longer takes this type of job on.

I can sympathise with him, I had a couple of door handles done last year and the pits could still be seen.

Does anyone know of other platers in the North West that still does this type of work, or anyone who does the new chrome painting system.
_________________
When I exhibit a car I get the Shudders. People queue up to tell me.
You should have done that, you should have done this. Ray

[ukdave2002]

Hi

Would they plate mazak if you filled the pits in first ?

Dave

[clascar]

The problem is Dave, it would have to be something that would plate, similar to the stuff it is made of
_________________
When I exhibit a car I get the Shudders. People queue up to tell me.
You should have done that, you should have done this. Ray

[whiteshadow]

I'm just keeping an eye on home plating kits, as I think I will need one for my current re-build. As part of this, I phoned up and had a chat with a guy from Gaterous. I believe he said that he would....

(1) Strip the plating from the pot metal

(2) Flash coat with neutral Nickel strike coat.

(3) Copper plate

(4) Fill voids with solder and polish back to be smooth

(5) Plate with replica chrome.

I would just double check before doing anything, but I think the jist of it is to get a good copper plate and then fill the holes with solder.

Hope this is some help.

Mark

[ukdave2002]

Interesting as I have the same problem with the Morris 8 bonnet emblem.

This was my thinking..... with old Mazak castings ; small pits could be polished out, larger pits soldered (Carrs make a zinc rich solder that claims to solder Mazak)

My Morris 8 grill is chromed brass and has soldered brackets on it (soldered prior to chroming), the guy at Nyphos said they would have copper plate this in addition to the normal chroming process, because of the solder, but they can chrome over the solder.

So what I dont know is if Nyphos were presented with mazak casting that had been repaired this way, would they be happy to chrome it?

I'm picking up some stuff from them next week so will ask.

Dave

[clascar]

That's very interesting Dave, I'll be interested in what they say.
_________________
When I exhibit a car I get the Shudders. People queue up to tell me.
You should have done that, you should have done this. Ray

[ukdave2002]

I took the following from a suppliers website, has anyone expirience of using it to repair mazak pitting?


Carr's Grey Flux.

A powerful but corrosive flux for soldering the “usually impossible” metals! ALUMINIUM, MAZAK, DIECAST….

This powerful, highly corrosive flux will strip aluminium oxide & allow No. 179 Strip Solder to penetrate beneath, and fuse with the aluminium. This flux is also effective on many of its alloys including Mazak (A die casting alloy as used for model cars). Spread the flux over surfaces to be joined then heat the metal with a tinned iron or an indirect flame.

Apply solder by running it on from the tip of the iron and a thick tinning will be formed. Don’t linger too long as flux is rapidly consumed & could cause withdrawal of the solder if exhausted. Any other CARR'S soft solder may be used for subsequent soldering onto this tinning, although flux protection should be maintained on the aluminium to prevent it withdrawing. Immediately all joints are made, clean the job with warm water, wipe dry and seal with Carrs Electrofix.

[alan 869]

Interesting thread

-When I exhibit a car I get the Shudders. People queue up to tell me.
You should have done that, you should have done this. Ray-

Why get the shudders. I would tell them that I was going to do all that years ago but realized that if I did then I would deprive the moaners at shows of something to moan about

[MikeEdwards]

I've also been looking at home plating kits. I've got a nickel plating kit which works quite well, other than some patchiness which I believe (and haven't had chance to verify) is because I was cleaing the workpiece with the supplied paste, but then picking it up with my actual hands (without gloves) to put it in the tank - apparently this causes some trouble.

The one I am looking at now is here: http://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/Zinc-Plating-kit.php - not least because I have some bits I want to do a yellow passivate coat on, and it's not very expensive. I don't know yet how well it works as I haven't ordered yet (not ready for it) but they do a lot of other stuff on there that looks interesting.

[Kelsham]

Let me know how you get on with the kit please. I am considering buying it to plate parts for my 1931 BSA car.

regards Kels.

[1935Hillman]

Hi there,
If you are prepared to mail your parts I can thoroughly reccomend S+T chrome in Bristol. They have resurrected two rotten radiator shells for me that other platers said couldn't be done. The first one was dented, very thin, rusty and badly patched up. S+T straightened it, soldered and lead loaded it, copper plated it and finally chromed it. It looks fantastic and weighs twice as much as it did before. Cant praise them highly enough.
Cheers,
Tim

[Kelsham]

Very interesting , how much do they charge I was just about to start work on my radiator shell.
One small dent and lip pulled off where the bonnet sits for about an inch.
Might be worth handing it over for the repairs.

regards Kels.

[mid]

have you thought of trying something like this...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mI-i6h_dmgY&feature=related

apparently you can repair pits etc with normal filler as its a paint process rather than physical chrome plating.

I know its not original but the finish looks amazing