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103e pop big end bearings
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JC22



Joined: 27 Jul 2011
Posts: 13

PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 11:13 am    Post subject: 103e pop big end bearings Reply with quote

I am trying to figure out if the big bearings I have are white metal bearings or shell type. Are there any striking differences? I need to know which ever they are as I have 2 that are failing.

cheers
Jason
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Jim.Walker



Joined: 27 Dec 2008
Posts: 1229
Location: Chesterfield

PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Strange question. Are you asking how to tell the difference with the connecting rod in your hand? Or before you have stripped the engine?

Once removed, shell bearings can be taken out of the rods, while white metal bearings are bonded to the rods.

I am pretty sure that the last 1172 Ford engine I stripped had white metal ends. I had the rods machined to accept shell bearings. Can't remember why now! I seem to remember that at that time pre-machined,re-metalled rods were available as service exchange from Ford Dealers.
Some one with more recent experience than me might be able to be more certain.
One thing I am sure of is that fitting (raw) re-metalled bearings is not a job for an amateur.
Jim.
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JC22



Joined: 27 Jul 2011
Posts: 13

PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jim, I have stripped the engine and I have seen tell tale signs that the engine has been stripped down before ie. the rods have been marked for which pot they come out of. The bores are clean thats why I asked they question re the piston size and I figure that if the motor has been stripped before that maybe it now has shell bearings but I'm not sure what the white metal bearing looks like
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Roger-hatchy



Joined: 07 Dec 2007
Posts: 2135
Location: Tiptree, Essex

PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is still possible to get 'shell' conrods as a modification.
The reason for fitting them is as Jim states, white metal bearings are not for the amateur.
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Jim.Walker



Joined: 27 Dec 2008
Posts: 1229
Location: Chesterfield

PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JC22 wrote:
Jim, I have stripped the engine and I have seen tell tale signs that the engine has been stripped down before ie. the rods have been marked for which pot they come out of. The bores are clean thats why I asked they question re the piston size and I figure that if the motor has been stripped before that maybe it now has shell bearings but I'm not sure what the white metal bearing looks like


Shell bearings are thin metal in two pieces to fit the crankshaft journal. If you look at the internal face of either the rod or the cap there will be a small "sliver" or "tongue" turned outwards at one side. Pressing the un-tongued end of the shell will "spin" it out. The back of the shell will if standard have generally have STD marked on it, but not always. UNDERSIZED shells for cranks which have been re-ground WILL be marked usually as -.010 or -.015 etc. (- being minus).
It is no good fitting new shells without accurately measuring the crankpin wear for undersize, ovality and taper. More than 2-3 thou. of any from new dimensions less any known undersize marked on the shells demands a crank regrind. Or the new shells will not last long.
Cast white metal bearings (shell bearings are also faced with a thin white metal coating which should not be worn through) are integral with the shaft on a solder base and cannot be detached. They can be re-cast, but "scraping in" is required on fitting to get the correct clearance. A very skilled job.
I hope that is clear enough to help.
Jim.
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lee Finnigan



Joined: 21 Feb 2014
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 1:36 pm    Post subject: White Metal Bearings Reply with quote

if you get stuck on white metal bearings try

(Link removed, 3 posts today all advertising. RJ)
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V8 Nutter



Joined: 27 Aug 2012
Posts: 587

PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Years ago the Glacier bearing catalogue listed drawings to modify white metal rods to take shells.
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you decided whether you are using shell, or white metal?
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roverdriver



Joined: 18 Oct 2008
Posts: 1210
Location: 100 miles from Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Connecting rods with cast Babbit (whitemetal) bearings. These from a T Ford.



When I was restoring my Model A, I had the bearings, both mains and big ends re-cast. Although I am no mechanic, and certainly no machinist, I had little difficulty scraping the bearings to make a correct fit.

With the crankshaft held in a vice, I blued the journal for the first rod, lightly bolted the rod and cap into place, (using 3 two thou shims each side), moved the rod around the journal and unbolted. The high spots of the Babbit showed as blue, so I started gently scraping away at those areas. After a little, I re-blued the shaft, fitted the rod, wriggled it, removed it and scraped away at the high spots. This process was repeated until I got a good blueing of about seven-eights of the surface on both the cap and rod.

I repeated the process for the other three bearings. As for tightness and clearance, With the piston mounted on the rod and bolted to the shaft, and the bearing oiled, the rod should fall slowly from near vertical, taking perhaps half a second for the fall.

After several thousand miles, I removed one shim from each side of each rod, but that was all that I had to do. I must have done something right as a mere beginner, because I drove that car for nearly 200,000 miles before I sold it.

Difficult to do- no. Requiring great skill-no. Needing patience and time-yes. I did all four big ends in one evening- well that is, I started at about 6.00 p.m., and was so engrossed in the job that when I finished the last one it was about 6.00 a.m. next morning.
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