Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[buzzy bee]

Hi

Ford Sidevalve
Upon putting the engine under load and going up a hill, putting the foot down on the accelerator, it feels like it coughs a bit, then can cut out. bit of pump on the lift pump and off she goes.

Any ideas?

I have been thinking to insulate the exhaust where it comes close to a fuel line, to minimise fuel issues. I have heard not to wrap the manifold as it can get too hot, and cause issues etc. Then again I have been told of putting a layer of glass fibre loft insulation in between the inlet and exhaust in the manifold casting to try to keep the carp cooler, what do people think?

Lastly, heat sheilds, but this is a bit awkward seeing how tight the engine bay is!

Again any idea's and thought apriciated!

Cheers

Dave

[Churchill Johnson]

If i remember right Ford's had the odd heat problems with the carb on the 100e as well and i think they bought out an insulator to go between the carb fange and the inlet manifold but the fuel problem did not just happen on hills it would show up on very hot summer day's but i do not know if the insulator is still available as it was made of the dreaded asbestos you would also need longer studs as it was about 10mm thick if you send me the dimensions of the carb flange i will see if i have one.

[Rick]

Not sure how you'd get loft insulation between the inlet and exhaust manifolds on a Ford 10?

I'd be checking:

- fuel pump, running out of ooomphhh under load? or partially blocked, say in the filter screen under the top cover?
- vaporisation like you say
- check engine compressions just to be sure
- blocked carb jets?
- sucking in air and weakening the mixture? I once had a leak on the pipe that goes into the vacuum screen wiper on an E83W, so it'd be worth blanking off the take-off from the manifold to make sure there's nothing wrong there
- is there pressure building up in the fuel tank?
- is the fuel more than a few months old?

RJ
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[Rick]

PS you could always try lagging the fuel pipes with something suitable, that's what I'm going to do on Bess, ie to deflect heat away generated by the manifold

R
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[buzzy bee]

Thanks for the replies, the insulator seems interesting!

I was told the insulation goes in the external gap, which seperates the inlet to outlet, could help but there is alot you can't get to granted.

I have found dirty jets, and dirt in the pump to carb pipe, so will try a test next.

Then if needs be look at these other idea's!

Cheers

Dave

[Rick]

If the points have closed up it'd cause issues with pulling/accelerating too, yet would still idle ok.

R
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[buzzy bee]

Good point!

I need to buy some feelers, I can only find metric ones, metric seems to be the standard in the shops too,

[buzzy bee]

Hi

Well she was a swine to even start today, Finally got her going after going through the carb/fuel system and electrics 2 or 3 times, not sure what I did, but she started, it was too dark for a test drive though! Bit of a petrol leak too, from the carb developed so have a service kit coming, was a bit bad to be driving witht he leak.

Anyway my question, the carb had fuel, had a good spark too, but no petrol seemed to be getting through to the plug, as they were all dry no matter how much I tried! Stumped me, I wondered about valves etc, but then she runs as sweet as a nut when going and is fine to start sometimes too.

Any ideas?

Cheers

Dave

[MVPeters]

Sounds to me like you might have a low fuel level in the carb bowl, perhaps caused by the leak? You mentioned earlier that a few pumps will get it up hills......

& you might check the earth strap between the engine & the chassis/battery.

Are you sure about "metric" feeler gauges? I've never looked for them or come across them but aren't they dual-marked?
or boot sale for 20p!
_________________
Mike - MVPeters at comcast.net
2002 MINI Cooper 'S'

[Rick]

None of the plugs were wet at all?

Either all the compressions are suspect (but you say that sometimes it runs ok..), or maybe random blockages in the carb - perhaps in the emulsion block (I think it's called) if the jets are clear? If the gasket for the emulsion block has gone all gooey then it would cause problems, have you had that off yet?

Otherwise I'd still be wondering about a vacuum leak somewhere around the inlet side of things.

RJ
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[buzzy bee]

Hi

Yeah I have an emulshion gasket on order, it was a bit suspect, maybe that is the answer, also wonder if a fully charged battery may help, as was a bit low this morning but better after a charge when she ran?

Cheers

Dave

[fordpop]

In my view, the problem is unlikely to be vaporisation at this time of year and only when pulling uphill. If you have found dirt in system, blocked jets etc, then I would recommend you put a fuel filter in the line between the fuel pipe coming from the tank and the lift pump. Keep it away from the exhaust though... That may not cure your immediate problem but it will prevent blockages from re-occurring, as they surely will if you have dirt in the tank. If the ammeter is showing a charge when the problems occur, then even if the battery is a bit suspect, it isn't going to be the cause of the problem. Lastly, are your plugs the right colour or showing the engine to be running weak? If so, then provided jets are clear, you'll need to eliminate possible air leaks with a new manifold gasket and a check for a worn throttle spindle which will allow air in. Hope that helps.

Alan

[Kelsham]

Petrol pump valves or diaphragm might be worth a check, I agree to cold for fuel vapourisation currently.

I seem to remember the old Fords being hard to start in cold weather unless spot on ignition wise, condenser, cap, plugs, rotor arm, leads, cap.

The 6 volt battery always was a problem on my old Anglia, I used to start it on the handle easily enough.

Is the carb bowl full of fuel when it fails to start?

Regards Kels.

[buzzy bee]

Hi

Yeah, there is loads of fuel at the carby, but none at the plug...

Cheers

Dave

[Greg]

Worth checking the short length of braided fuel pipe connected from the main fuel line from the rear, to the pump ...has it ever been replaced?
I had cutting out problems....mine had the original part still fitted! ....(parts just don't last any more!
Inside is rubber and slowly breaks down blocking the carb periodically !
Evidence can usually be found in the bottom of the carburettor bowl ...tiny black particles.
Just a thought