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British heritage cars



Joined: 10 Nov 2010
Posts: 199

PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nick.S. wrote:
just a small update. i got the starter that i bought put on and it works great, it spins the engine over perfectly Very Happy
i also have assembled the water pump and put it back on, now i just need some rad hose and i will have a working coolent system Smile


Sounds great!
Do you have pictures from your work?
What's next on your todo job?

Kind regards,
Jonathan
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Nick.S.



Joined: 08 Nov 2011
Posts: 64
Location: Manitoba, Canada.

PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! Very Happy
i have a few pics of it

one of the water pump, not painted yet though.


and the new starter Very Happy (the bits of tape on the dizzy is to keep track of spark wire Confused )


i took the front seats out today, a rather easy job, i was expecting more rust to fight! Surprised
how does one endevor to remove the back seat though? i cant see any obvious bolts or srews to remove....
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1951 Austin A40 Devon
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British heritage cars



Joined: 10 Nov 2010
Posts: 199

PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 10:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hallo!

Again great progress!
The rear seat is the most easiest, you can just take it out, you don't have to lossen any bolts!
Just give it a scharp pull and you'll take it out!
Goot luck!

Kind regards,
Jonathan
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Nick.S.



Joined: 08 Nov 2011
Posts: 64
Location: Manitoba, Canada.

PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

got the seats out on friday, i also took part of the headliner out. i plan on using it as a pattern for a new one.
quick question about testing the fuel guage, if i hook 12 volts to the terminal studs on it, the guage should read full, right? or will this fry it?
thanks
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1951 Austin A40 Devon
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Churchill Johnson



Joined: 11 Jan 2011
Posts: 278
Location: Rayleigh Essex

PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Voltage go's to one side of the dash guage maybe marked +, the other side go's to the seder unit in the tank, if it is wired up putting the sender wire to earth with voltage on should send the guage to full ,if ok reconnect to sender and earth the sender body, moving the float slowly you should see the guage moving as well ,when right up full ,when right down empty, if first test is ok then sender is at fault, check carefully as sometime's they can be repaired maybe a dry solder joint, you could check the sender with a multi-tester on ohm's setting.
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Nick.S.



Joined: 08 Nov 2011
Posts: 64
Location: Manitoba, Canada.

PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 2:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

my sister and i painted the dashboard so it looks like the original wood grain, looks smashing now! Smile
im working on taking the door handles off now, they are a little stubborn to come off the splines so im heating them and soaking them in penitrating oil ( i lined the handles up and slid the door card off them so it wouldnt catch fire)

i am kinda wondering how the door windows come out, do i undo all the bolts on the lifter unit and just wiggle it out?

here are some pictures of the on going progress,

this one is the frames new home for the summer,
( i didnt plan on making a stacked rock entrance, there was just a rock pile in the way Smile )



this is the inside of the body with out the natty old headliner,

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1951 Austin A40 Devon
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British heritage cars



Joined: 10 Nov 2010
Posts: 199

PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hallo Nick,

Looks great! Wink
I'll look forward for next pictures from your work! Wink

Kind regards,
Jonathan
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Nick.S.



Joined: 08 Nov 2011
Posts: 64
Location: Manitoba, Canada.

PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well got a bit more progress on the teardown! Smile

woodgrain affect paint


almost the entire upper strip is repainted


the hand painted graining


parking brake handle cleand and painted








figured out how to get the glass out of the doors with out breaking it! Very Happy


looks like on of those cut away diagrams Smile


found some rust around the right hand side under the front door








the roof looks good Smile



thats about all for now, though on the gas tank, is it built in two sections that can be split? or are the two pressing welded together?
Thanks Very Happy
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1951 Austin A40 Devon
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 14147
Location: S. Cheshire

PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's great to follow this build, the dash has come out looking excellent - tricky to do?

RJ
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Rick (Admin. oldclassiccar.co.uk)
Various 1930s-1960s relics - Austin, Morris, Bedford, Dodge etc.
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Nick.S.



Joined: 08 Nov 2011
Posts: 64
Location: Manitoba, Canada.

PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Rick Very Happy the dash was actually not to bad to do, we used four colours of acrylic paints ( red ochre, burnt umber, sepia, and a flesh colour) with a bit of careful mixing we matched the original paint perfectly, then a bit of terry cloth was used as a graining tool. Im planning on giving it a couple coats of spray lacquer to protect it.

yesterday i pulled the sender unit out of the fuel tank, bit disapointing i think i might have to replace it Sad the float has hole rusted though, the rheostat is stuck and i cant seem to get anything apart on it. If i can get the wiper arms on the rheostat moving and cleaned then i will just make a new float












does any one have some tips on rebuilding the sender? Many thanks Very Happy
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1951 Austin A40 Devon
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Nick.S.



Joined: 08 Nov 2011
Posts: 64
Location: Manitoba, Canada.

PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2012 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, i'm making more progress. i managed to wiggle the resistant wire coil out of the rheostat and got the wiper arms moving nice and smoothly. got every thing cleaned up and now i am working on making the new float, i decided to use 0.01" brass shim stock for this ( same thickness as the old float, but brass is nicer to work with) instead of making a roll lock joint on the float body im using a coppersmiths joint. i will make a mandrel later on to form the end caps.
on to some pictures Very Happy


everything dis-assembled








now on to making the new float,

this is the type of joint im going to use, looks kinda neat














a quick pickling before soldering


wired up to solder








well thats it for now, just have to make the end caps and solder it all together.
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1951 Austin A40 Devon
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D4B



Joined: 28 Dec 2010
Posts: 1371
Location: Hampshire UK

PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2012 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great work Nick, this car was very lucky to meet you Cool
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NONORT



Joined: 26 Apr 2012
Posts: 55
Location: Southampton

PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry I didn't read this earlier. The Rolls Royce that I work on has a cork for a float. I believe it is the original 1927 vintage? A cork is also used on the engine oil level float. Modern fuels don't seem to have done any damage to the corks in either position. May be you could have put a cork inside the old can! Confused
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welshrover



Joined: 09 Aug 2011
Posts: 326

PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

keep up the good work ,i thought id give you a bit of inspiration heres a few pictures of an a 40 i used to own a few years ago
craig








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Nick.S.



Joined: 08 Nov 2011
Posts: 64
Location: Manitoba, Canada.

PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

D4B, Thanks! Very Happy

NONORT, i thought of using cork, but i figured making a new float would have less head aches Smile the old float is pretty lacy Sad

welshrover, WOW! thats beautiful! Very Happy is the white T-beading standard with the black paint? mine was grey paint with black T-beading, i like the contrast of the white beading though.


on to some pictures of my progress Smile
hope no one minds that there are a lot of pictures, if you do just say! Very Happy

the end cap mandrel, just a scrap of cast aluminum






































thats it for now Smile
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