Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[welder]

Just got my 1937 Morris 8 running after a 22 year lay up and shall be changing the oil ASAP.

1st question. Should I use a flushing oil? If so, which is recommended?

Secondly, which engine oil would you recommend I use?

Thanks in anticipation.

Ian

[Rick]

I'd use a 20/50 to flush it through, then either a straight 30 or more likely a "classic" 20/50 (ie without all the detergents of a modern oil) before using the car properly. But I'm no expert!

R
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[Phil - Nottingham]

I agree with Rick - I use 20/50 Comma in my 1938 Rover 16 and change it every 1500 miles or 2 years as it has no oil filter other than the sump pump strainer which only removes lumps of coal
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Rover P2
Rover P4
Rover P5 & P5B
Land Rover S2 & S3
Morris Mini Traveller Mk2

[welder]

[captain bobo]

One of the classic car challenges presented by multi viscosity oils (like 20/50) is that the viscosity is higher then a mono oil (like SAE 30) at high temperatures. That's fine with modern engines with sturdy fuel pumps that can handle high viscosity at high engine speeds, but it poses a challenge for older engines. The design of older engines assumed that the oil will have a low viscosity at high temperatures and high engine speeds.

Many older engines, particularly pre war engines, adopted the "low pressure, lots of oil" approach with the reduced viscosity.

So, if you're confident that the oil pump is sufficiently robust then a multigrade20/50 classic oil (Penrite, Millers, Halfords, Castrol all make them along with many others) is fine. If you suspect that the oil pump is desgned to throw a lot of oil about at low viscosity then use something like a mono SAE 30 classic oil.

I use classic 20/50 in my 1969 Daimler V8 saloon and straight classic SAE 30 in my 1937 Daimler 15 Sports Saloon.
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1937 Daimler 15 Mulliner Sports Saloon & 1969 Daimler V8 250 Saloon

[Bayliss Thomas]

In my vintage car I always used a straight 30 grade, however for Summer running I would go for a 40 grade.