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Bad Vibrations
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emmerson



Joined: 30 Sep 2008
Posts: 1268
Location: South East Wales

PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Uk dave, I'd have guessed it's a manual with overdrive! For some reason this spec seems to eat universal joints, so this is what I would check first.
I've only ever had three overdrive cars and they have all needed propshaft overhauls.
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emmerson



Joined: 30 Sep 2008
Posts: 1268
Location: South East Wales

PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Uk dave, I'd have guessed it's a manual with overdrive! For some reason this spec seems to eat universal joints, so this is what I would check first.
I've only ever had three overdrive cars and they have all needed propshaft overhauls.
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Julian



Joined: 19 Apr 2010
Posts: 278
Location: Warrington

PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

emmerson wrote:
For some reason this spec seems to eat universal joints, .


It's probably Dave's burnouts and attempts at the 1/4 mile!

(ps, better off with a nice 'live' axle with lsd diff Very Happy )

Julian.
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4104
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 10:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Julian wrote:
emmerson wrote:
For some reason this spec seems to eat universal joints, .


It's probably Dave's burnouts and attempts at the 1/4 mile!

(ps, better off with a nice 'live' axle with lsd diff Very Happy )

Julian.


Or more likely because I use the Stag as a tow car quite a lot! If you were at the indoor car show last weekend at Event City in Manchester and saw the Z Van on the Morris Register stand; that was delivered by the Stag Shocked

Not much fun towing with the vibration problem Sad

Jim, many thanks for your advice I'll check the UJ's first.

Cheers

Dave
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4104
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jim.Walker wrote:
Dave, levering with a bar (tyre lever?) between each cup (both sides) against the spider should reveal any wear fault in a UJ. Any movement at all shouts "scrap it or repair it".
Jim.


Jim et al, looks as if is the rear propshaft UJ, it has an alaming amount of play Shocked

Not dismantled it yet as not got a spare and want to keep the car mobile in my workshop, thanks for the tyre lever tip it showed the play up very easily, the other joints all seem ok.

Dave
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
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Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably irrelevant but I'll through it just in case..

http://www.nostagiatech.co.uk/New%20page%2019.htm

Peter
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Last edited by peter scott on Thu Nov 22, 2018 11:31 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 22446
Location: UK

PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ukdave2002 wrote:
Julian wrote:
emmerson wrote:
For some reason this spec seems to eat universal joints, .


It's probably Dave's burnouts and attempts at the 1/4 mile!

(ps, better off with a nice 'live' axle with lsd diff Very Happy )

Julian.


Or more likely because I use the Stag as a tow car quite a lot! If you were at the indoor car show last weekend at Event City in Manchester and saw the Z Van on the Morris Register stand; that was delivered by the Stag Shocked

Not much fun towing with the vibration problem Sad

Jim, many thanks for your advice I'll check the UJ's first.

Cheers

Dave


Did you have the Z out and about?? be nice to see pics of the old girl Smile

RJ
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Jim.Walker



Joined: 27 Dec 2008
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Location: Chesterfield

PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave, from your posts. I would guess you have never changed a UJ. So I hope you will not mind me giving a few pointers.
Most UJs have the cups retained with circlips and are relatively straight forward as long as you DO NOT try to take it apart by pressing the cups inwards.
Some, probably cheaper to Assemble during construction, have the cups staked in with a press tool. These need machining facilities to dismantle, Easier to buy an exchange shaft.

With circlips removed, hold the flange in one hand and hit the prop-shaft end with a mallet or soft hammer on the same axis as the prop-shaft yoke, which should jar the opposite cup outwards. Do the same to drive the cup on the other side of the yoke outwards. It can then be seperated and the other cups done similarly in a vise, Pressing the cups inwards will just about make the job impossible and probably wreck the shaft.
To avoid pressing the cups inwards too far during re-assembly, I usually introduce each circlip into the yoke as soon as possible and complete the pressing until the circlip snaps into the groove.

Sorry if this sounds like a lecture, but so many people get in a mess by driving the cups inwards. Which probably looks like the way to do it.
Jim.
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
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Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rick wrote:
Did you have the Z out and about?? be nice to see pics of the old girl :)RJ

I'll start a new thread, plan is to MOT her this mobth, most work done.

She was part of the Morris Register stand at the Event City Classic vehicle show in Manchester a couple of weeks ago.



Jim.Walker wrote:
Dave, from your posts. I would guess you have never changed a UJ. So I hope you will not mind me giving a few pointers.
Most UJs have the cups retained with circlips and are relatively straight forward as long as you DO NOT try to take it apart by pressing the cups inwards.
Some, probably cheaper to Assemble during construction, have the cups staked in with a press tool. These need machining facilities to dismantle, Easier to buy an exchange shaft.

With circlips removed, hold the flange in one hand and hit the prop-shaft end with a mallet or soft hammer on the same axis as the prop-shaft yoke, which should jar the opposite cup outwards. Do the same to drive the cup on the other side of the yoke outwards. It can then be seperated and the other cups done similarly in a vise, Pressing the cups inwards will just about make the job impossible and probably wreck the shaft.
To avoid pressing the cups inwards too far during re-assembly, I usually introduce each circlip into the yoke as soon as possible and complete the pressing until the circlip snaps into the groove.

Sorry if this sounds like a lecture, but so many people get in a mess by driving the cups inwards. Which probably looks like the way to do it.
Jim.


Thanks Jim, I'll follow this.
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Jim.Walker



Joined: 27 Dec 2008
Posts: 1229
Location: Chesterfield

PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice photo Dave!
I would not mind betting though that the very tidy indicators are below regulation height. MOT problem?
The ones on my Avatar are barely high enough.
Jim.
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Julian



Joined: 19 Apr 2010
Posts: 278
Location: Warrington

PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jim.Walker wrote:
Nice photo Dave!
I would not mind betting though that the very tidy indicators are below regulation height. MOT problem?
The ones on my Avatar are barely high enough.
Jim.


It maybe an SVA problem for kit cars, but it doesn't seem to be an MOT issue:

Note: The precise position of direction indicators is not part of the inspection, but check visually that the lamps are at about the same height and the same distance from each side of the vehicle.

Maybe I've missed something, it's easy to do!

Julian.
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4104
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its the shiny Morris 10 you are referring to (next to my non shiny and dusty Z van!).

The owner drove it to the show so I presume it has a current MOT, I'm not sure of the lighting law..... whilst I appreciate the safety side, IMHO orange indicators added later to vehicles of this era just never look right...

Dave
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 22446
Location: UK

PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ukdave2002 wrote:
Its the shiny Morris 10 you are referring to (next to my non shiny and dusty Z van!).

The owner drove it to the show so I presume it has a current MOT, I'm not sure of the lighting law..... whilst I appreciate the safety side, IMHO orange indicators added later to vehicles of this era just never look right...

Dave


I agree, I took them off my Devon because the cheapo plastic jobbies it had been fitted with looked awful (also in part due to them constantly blowing bulbs Smile)

R
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Phil - Nottingham



Joined: 01 Jan 2008
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They might not look right but neither does a smashed up car or someone injured because the other person did not see the trafficator or even badly positioned flasher.

The side lamp bulbs can be used to retain period look and there are other period lamp fittings for the rears.

I agree this type looks out of place on such a nice car - some make them detachable for shows
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Jim.Walker



Joined: 27 Dec 2008
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Location: Chesterfield

PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did NOT criticise fitting flashers. In fact I applaud the action! I see nothing wrong with updates on old cars, especially where safety is concerned. Even The Montageau Motor Museum accept such things normally fitted or up-dated during the vehicle life. That, of course is opposed to "pimping".
The legal height for indicators is 1'3" to 3'6" from the ground. Probably now Metricated.
If appearance is bothersome, bumper mounted indicators can be fitted so as easily removable for shows etc.
If an MOT inspector is sufficiently awake he is entitled to fail vehicles with lamps wrongly positioned. I moved my indicators from below to above the bumper for that reason.
Jim.
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