Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[okky]

I have a 1937 7W Ten. It has the 1172 Sidevalve. I am very much an 'amatuer' mechaninc, refreshing 25 year old memories as I go.

It was stored for the winter, 4 months or so. Last time out I had to be followed home by the AA as he thought my fuel pump had gone, and he hand pumped it through using one of his tools.

A previous owner had fitted a fuel filter, but it was on way too much pipe. The AA guy said that this could be the problem, even though it had driven fine doing over 100 miles across last summer.

Yesterday I started to get it ready for this years driving. In the end I cut the fuel filter out and as soon as I did that , the pump started working fine.

1) I have lots of the books for the 1172 and I can't see a fuel filter in any of them. I understand that its better to have one, than not, but temporarily it should be ok ?

2) It starts fine with the choke out and runs with the choke out, but as soon as I put it off the engine cuts out with what appears to be lots of 'sucking' sounds from around the carburettor. Could this be a problem with the gasket ?

3) The engine doesn't have a water pump so the fan belt runs between the bottom pulley and the dynamo at the top, which has the fan blades attached to that pulley. I'm trying to fit a new fan belt. I can't get the old one off. I've undone all the dynamo bolts so thats completely loose, but the 2 blades of the fan hit the radiator before it will go far enough forward to let the fan belt slip off. Do I need to take the fan off or is there some other 'trick' to it.

Thanks in advance for any help...

[Rick]

Hi Okky,

Interesting to read about your Ford.

1. Ford 8s and 10s didn't have a separate filter as standard, although they're often retro-fitted. Buzzy was asking about these the other day. So long as the pump can pull through a filter then one is of use, but if the pump is at all weaker than standard, I could imagine it not being keen on pulling through a filter, especially if there are any blockages.

2. It sounds like you have a blocked jet if it'll only run on choke, have a look at the two small brass jets in the base of the float chamber, remove each and blow through them. You can undo the jets using one of the float chamber retaining bolts, which have square ends on them for the job. If that makes no difference, you might need to look at the emulsion block gasket (a look in the book will show it, it's attached to the side of the float chamber.

The carb can sound a bit "sucky" as there is no air cleaner fitted. If you have an air leak on the induction side I suspect the engine would barely move the car along at all.

3. Taking the fan off might help (it's only held on with two bolts if I remember right), or else remove the dynamo altogether and install a new belt thattaway.

Any photos to hand of the car?

hth, RJ
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[Julian]

[MVPeters]

Rick

[Greg]

Hi Okky,
Just a thought, nobody has adjusted the idle screw have they ?
As Rick says, check the emulsion gasket and other blockages, also worth cleaning any sediment in the bowl while you are there.
The other things to check are perhaps when you've undone the fuel pipe from the carbourettor, briefly turn the engine over,(or if the pump has a priming lever),to see if there's a strong supply of petrol from the pump.

Check the 8" braided hose up to the pump is not breaking down inside....(little black partials in the carb).

Maybe check if there's any difference with the filler cap undone?

The fan belt can be awkward..I take the fan blade off, undo the dynamo so it can slide to its lowest point, using the starting handle (obviously ignition OFF!). then carefully flip the belt over the lip of the lower pulley whilst slowly turning the starting handle.
Then lift off the belt... refitting is just in the reverse.
(if the car has the original front engine mounts, they will probably have collapsed a small amount, so you may need to put a jack under the engine and lift it up enough just to fit the belt between the pulley wheel and the front chassis member)
Hope this helps
All the best,
Greg

[okky]

thanks for the comments guys...

On the carb theres the air mix screw at the top and the idler screw is linked to the accelerator linkage.... this is correct ?

The idler one appeared to be completely undone. I did it up a bit which should have meant increased revs at idle, but it hasn't changed anything

I've tried moving the air mix screw at the top in and out but again, to no avail.

re the fuel filter, when it broke down last autumn, it was because the rubber hose that had been run to fit the fuel filter prior to the pump, had moved and was rubbing against the exhaust which I guess caused the fuel to evaporate too soon... would that be vapour lock ?

When I removed the old filter and about 8 inches of extraneous pipe, there was plenty of fuel spurting out of the pipe when the engine cranked, so I may well go with the one after the pump... having said that its a metal pipe only a few inches long between the pump and carb.

[okky]

also ( forgot this in my last reply )...

Theres never been this sucking sound before from around the carb if that helps ....

[ka]

I note that there was a reference to unleaded fuel. It may be worth checking fuel pipes and the whole fuel train including the diaphragm in the pump as the ethanol in unleaded eats these items and needs replacing with alcohol tolerant parts.
Easy cure to this is to fit a remote electric pump as this also helps with vaporization.
_________________
KA

Better three than four.