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whiteshadow
Joined: 24 Jan 2011 Posts: 78
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Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 7:21 pm Post subject: Engine Studs |
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Does anyone know where I can find suitable engine studs....
I've done the usual internet search, but studs are generally listed by car not thread/size. The owners club doesn't really stock these.
I need:- 3/8 BSF 4-1/2" Long & 3/8 BSF 2" long - High Tensile Steel
I've tried S.Steel ones, but they appear to stretch......I have to keep re-tightening even before the engine has run. (~35ftlb)
Anyone own a car with engine studs of these sizes? |
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Phil Lincoln
Joined: 18 Oct 2009 Posts: 26 Location: LINCOLN
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Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 10:37 pm Post subject: Engine Studs |
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You could try Namricks the nut and bolt and general fastener people.They have a web site and advertise in most of the classic car press. I have bought some BSF stuff from them over the years and they may be able to supply set bolts that can be made into studs.
Best regards Phil. |
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MikeEdwards
Joined: 25 May 2011 Posts: 2467 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 10:21 am Post subject: |
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I'd second Namrick - they had some long bolts made for me. Failing that, any decent engineering company ought to be able to cut and thread some suitable bar you'd think? Or am I missing something?
I'm not sure stainless is suitable for this, but I can't remember why not. It's something about which piece stretches to create the friction between stud and nut - I remember it was discussed when someone offered to make stainless wheel nuts, and we came the conclusion that this would be OK, but stainless studs would not. |
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whiteshadow
Joined: 24 Jan 2011 Posts: 78
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Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 12:27 pm Post subject: Stud |
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I've used Namrick quite a bit for BSF bolts...
I just wondered if anyone had say an old Austin etc who knew that the studs were 3/8 BSF.....that would make life easier than getting new parts cut.
Whats the down side to cutting the head off a suitable HT steel bolt?....apart from the plan shank in the middle of the stud. |
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welder
Joined: 26 Nov 2007 Posts: 265 Location: North Warwickshire
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Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:42 pm Post subject: Re: Stud |
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whiteshadow wrote: | I've used Namrick quite a bit for BSF bolts...
I just wondered if anyone had say an old Austin etc who knew that the studs were 3/8 BSF.....that would make life easier than getting new parts cut.
Whats the down side to cutting the head off a suitable HT steel bolt?....apart from the plan shank in the middle of the stud. |
I can't think of a downside if you feel that the plain shank isn't necessary. However, as an engineer myself I'd regard the manufacture of suitable studs as a straightforward operation.
Buy suitable Grade 8.8 round bar and appropriate die set, cut bars to length, chamfer/deburr the ends, and cut threads using die set. The operation is greatly eased by the application of quality cutting lube.
Alternatively take round bar and die set to a friendly local engineering shop and ask nicely.
Ian |
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whiteshadow
Joined: 24 Jan 2011 Posts: 78
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Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 5:54 pm Post subject: The Stud |
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I have a lathe, but it's no way good enough to cut the accurate threads required.
I would use dies, but I can't seem to find sets - I seem to remember that's the correct way to do it, and a one cut die is just to cut light threads or clean up old ones??
Arn't high tensile bolts heat treated after cutting??.. |
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norustplease
Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Posts: 779 Location: Lancashire
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Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 2:03 pm Post subject: |
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Stainless steel bolts expand more when hot, than ordinary steel, so may give problems with bearing caps, cylinder heads, etc. It is also difficult to match the grade of stainless steel to equivalent steel bolts, and you may have issues with regard to the SS being brittle under higher torques.
You will get corrosion issues if your components are alloy.
By all means use them in situations like sump pans, side covers etc. into a cast iron or steel thread, but suggest you stick with original spec for internal components, etc. _________________ 1953 Citroen Traction
1964 Volvo PV544
1957 Austin A55 Mk 1
Boring Tucson SUV |
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buzzy bee
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 3382 Location: South Cheshire
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Handyman
Joined: 09 Aug 2011 Posts: 44 Location: Up in't clouds in Sunny Sussex.
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Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 9:23 am Post subject: |
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I would suggest that these studs, if they are to hold down a cylinder head are made from steel bar using a ROLLED thread, as opposed to a cut thread. Rolled threads are much stronger as they do not cut across the grain structure of the bar, thereby creating a weakness.
My favourite material for these types of studs: EN16T, a good strong tensile steel, well able to cope.
If you get stuck for getting these, PM me as I think I have a sets of BSF rollers in the workshop. Send me a photo of your existing studs.
H |
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Phil - Nottingham
Joined: 01 Jan 2008 Posts: 1252 Location: Nottingham
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Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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You could set up a sideline doing these - my Rover P2 head-bolts are 3/8" BSF and are notorious for stretching _________________ Rover P2
Rover P4
Rover P5 & P5B
Land Rover S2 & S3
Morris Mini Traveller Mk2 |
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Handyman
Joined: 09 Aug 2011 Posts: 44 Location: Up in't clouds in Sunny Sussex.
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Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 9:23 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Phil, I already make quite a few replica and restoration parts for 1920s & 1930s JAP engines, including castings, gaskets, studs, bolts, etc. so running up sets of studs for car engines should not be a problem.
PM me if you have a requirement as I always keep a good stock of tensile steels in bar, round and flats and can usually treat them as required.
H |
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notrag
Joined: 28 Sep 2009 Posts: 3
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Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 12:40 pm Post subject: |
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Hi
Try www.thomassmithfasteners.com for all types of standard and special fasteners. They have lots of different stock sizes of imperial BSF & BSW. Also available on their online shop and they manufacture specials.
Tim |
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Jim.Walker
Joined: 27 Dec 2008 Posts: 1229 Location: Chesterfield
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Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 8:36 am Post subject: |
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Reading this it seems some folk do not know the difference between a bolt and a set-screw.
I remember going into a shop called McKays in Cambridge for bolts to fix side rails to the body on a Herald many years ago.
A large sign over the counter said "DO YOU WANT BOLTS OR SET-SCREWS!"
I duly asked the counter hand for (I think 5/16 x 2.5inch UNF) BOLTS.
"Ahh" said he "are they the ones threaded all the way up?"
I'll leave the rest for you to think about.
Jim. _________________ Quote from my late Dad:- You only need a woman and a car and you have all the problems you
are ever likely to want". Computers had not been invented then! |
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