Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Bitumen Boy]

This gun wash sounds like good stuff, I'll have to look at getting a bit in before some EUseless desk jockey bans it...

On this occasion, though, the answer turns out to have been rather more homely, and probably a lot cheaper - about £1.50 worth of ordinary malt vinegar and a syringe that came with a printer ink refill kit has shifted the nasty stubborn deposit left after the detergent treatment. In fairness the bio detergent did a good job on the gummy deposits, it's just the residue that it left behind that caused the problem - but maybe I used too much, and a liquid would probably be preferable to a powder but bio detergents seem to be out of fashion and it was all I could get locally.

Had it running properly this evening, looking forward to a decent run/tuneup next week

[255dropside]

I bought mine years ago from one of my mower parts suppliers, but Maplins were selling very similar ones them 2 Christmases ago for £30.
I buy the special salts cleaner, but a lot of people use very warm water and washing up liquid, a bit of crystalline soda help in a hardwater area.
these things do work well, only problem with mine is that it has a timer on it that cuts out after about 2 minutes, some strimmer and chain saw carbs need to be turned and want about 10 or 20 minutes as they have very tiny internal orifices that cannot be cleaned any other way.
Please be aware that on mazak and ally carbs that if you use any salts solution you must get rid of it all after immersion or the carb will be attacked rinse under plenty of running water and lubricate after.
Some pics of before and after:




_________________
regards, David.

[255dropside]

I bought mine years ago from one of my mower parts suppliers, but Maplins were selling very similar ones them 2 Christmases ago for £30.
I buy the special salts cleaner, but a lot of people use very warm water and washing up liquid, a bit of crystalline soda help in a hardwater area.
these things do work well, only problem with mine is that it has a timer on it that cuts out after about 2 minutes, some strimmer and chain saw carbs need to be turned and want about 10 or 20 minutes as they have very tiny internal orifices that cannot be cleaned any other way.
Please be aware that on mazak and ally carbs that if you use any salts solution you must get rid of it all after immersion or the carb will be attacked rinse under plenty of running water and lubricate after.
Some pics of before and after:




_________________
regards, David.

[peter scott]

I have a spray can of carb cleaner that someone gave me. I was skeptical but when I eventually tried it I thought it was pretty amazing.

I can't see the stuff I had here but they are probably all the same chemical. In the "modern" forum I'm in everyone uses carb cleaner for EGRs and MAFs.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC0.A0.Xcarb+cleaner&_nkw=carb+cleaner&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Peter
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http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[baconsdozen]

I've always used either cellulose thinners or brake cleaner (I guess they are pretty much the same stuff).
I use a largish container with an airtight lid,pour a half inch or so in the bottom,soak the carb with a paint brush dipped in thinners and stick it in the tub with a lid on.Leave for a few hours or so.
For H and S,wear goggles,a hard hat,breathing apparatus,a safety harness (so you don't fall in the tub) and erect barriers to keep away pedestrians. You can take off the harness when the lid is back on though.
When doing this it is advisable to wear a hard hard that advises people of the process you are engaged in. You should wear a hard hat with the legend "Petroleum Residue Active Treatment Specialist" or just the initial letters will do.
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Thirty years selling imperial hand tools for old machinery(Now happily retired).