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Hot running - points/dizzy cap/rotor arm issues & checks
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trampintransit



Joined: 09 Aug 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 7:10 pm    Post subject: Hot running - points/dizzy cap/rotor arm issues & checks Reply with quote

This is confusing me....Alvis TA14. Starts fine....ticks over beautifully. Off we go.....on to the bypass....bundles along at about 60 indicated. into traffic, lovely, engine very happy. Temp looks normal, behaves like a sweetie running about for an hour. Visit a pal, leave her outside for an hour. Back out.....ye gods....like a different car. REALLY hard to start........needs constant touch of throttle to run, gutless, coughing spluttering. won't pick up from tick over without VERY slow application of throttle. Have to keep her idling high with the foot to get her through traffic. This has happened the last three times she's been out.
I do know she needs decoked ( runs on a bit when hot ) plugs suggest she's maybe a tad rich but nothing drastic. Valve clearences done. Compressions all good. Pulls like a train in the first half of the day suggesting the timing is OK. ( Cant remember where I have it set.....the brass plaque on the top cover says one thing, the manual another )
They've started salting the roads so time now to take the head off and decoke her..but any thoughts?
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 22429
Location: UK

PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuel vaporisation thru heat soak into the pipes and/or pump, after parking up following a run?

RJ
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Scotty



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 883

PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you changed something prior to the last three times its done this i.e new petrol cap, new fuel pump, etc?
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trampintransit



Joined: 09 Aug 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fuel vapourisatrion argument has merit but I think it would manifest itself in traffic earlier in the day when the engine was plenty hot enough. Nothing else has changed recently.
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traction39



Joined: 19 May 2009
Posts: 399
Location: South Wales

PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Points gap?
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trampintransit



Joined: 09 Aug 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

but if the points gap was out why would it run fine from cold to hot for the first hour? Honestly ...the transformation is severe. I was wondering , could the coil be heating up slowly since it's sat next to a hot block.....then delivering a weak spark after lunch?
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traction39



Joined: 19 May 2009
Posts: 399
Location: South Wales

PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 11:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

....just that I had a problem with points gap. Very hot running, no power although started OK, Initially ran OK but found the points gap had closed right down.
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trampintransit



Joined: 09 Aug 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

your right..it's time to go back to basics....the head's gotta come off anyway for the decoke, so set up the carb and distributor when it all goes back together. Nice Traction BTW...
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colwyn500



Joined: 21 Oct 2012
Posts: 1745
Location: Nairn, Scotland

PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 11:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would check all the connections on the low tension side of things and the condition of the carb/manifold gasket.
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Kelsham



Joined: 18 Jan 2009
Posts: 349
Location: Llandrindod Wells Powys

PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some of the sets of points sold nowadays are very substandard. As are other ignition components. To think we complained about Lucas parts.

I recently fitted new points to my Morris 1800 and suffered much the same problem as you.

Turned out the points had closed up in under a thousand miles. Readjusted and soon after they had closed up again.

I replaced them,so far OK.

Regards Kels.
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Roger-hatchy



Joined: 07 Dec 2007
Posts: 2135
Location: Tiptree, Essex

PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another potential problem with 'new' points.

I have had three sets were the one of the contacts has worked loose, the only reason they didn't drop out was not enough room for the shaft to drop out of the hole.
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JohnDale



Joined: 19 Mar 2008
Posts: 790
Location: Kelvin Valley,Scotland

PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2012 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Similar problem with Intermotor condenser - sometimes fine other times u/s
eventually no go. Old Lucas condenser from my 'spare parts' sorted the problem but I'm now on Pertronix unit inside the dizzy so nothing is seen.
Regards,JD.
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Modern black rotor arms are conductive when hot and can cause problems. Make sure you use an old one or buy a new red one.

Peter
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welshrover



Joined: 09 Aug 2011
Posts: 326

PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 12:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ive used red rotor arms for a few years and have never encountered problems, but the so called lucas condensors thats another thing, a lot of them are chinky copys in copied lucas boxes .you can tell them by the lettering on the boxes its blurry on the edges and the proper lucas box is crisp .i get mine from the distributor doctor he makes them the same as the lucas originals Smile
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trampintransit



Joined: 09 Aug 2010
Posts: 166
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loads of input here....thanks guys....I love the classic car scene!!!

Haven't had time to deal with the old girl over the winter, but I think it's off down the garage in a week or two to whip the head off for decoking. When it goes back together I'll be sure to check the integrity of the points, chk for a red rotor arm and put in a new good quality condensor. Considering the cost I think Ill replace the coil with something original looking from these guys
( http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=1&pgCode=030&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Ignition&agCode=0350&agName=Ignition+Coils )
I'm discounting fuel vapourisation for the moment, that would manifest itself earlier in town driving I think. It's the transformation that occurs after switching off that's so stunning.....

BTW..never heard about black rotor arms being problematic...anybody else heard of this?
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