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Coach painting problem
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AlexMG



Joined: 30 Oct 2012
Posts: 13

PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 9:58 pm    Post subject: Coach painting problem Reply with quote

Hi. Has anyone had experience of hand painting a vintage car using Takaloid coach paint? I have completed painting the tub and the topcoat appears not to have keyed onto the undercoats. I can 'tear' it off with my fingernail. Very dissappointing. I used an etch primer, followed by many coats of undercoat (grey and white)sanded smooth with 1200 wet and dry and then 3 coats of red topcoat coach paint. Whilst the finish is great the paint seems not to have hardened or keyed onto the undercoat. I pased this on to the supplier but have not recieved a reply. Anyone else had this problem or can provide an explaination.
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34HF90



Joined: 07 Feb 2011
Posts: 62

PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 11:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Hi. Has anyone had experience of hand painting a vintage car using Takaloid coach paint? I have completed painting the tub and the topcoat appears not to have keyed onto the undercoats. I can 'tear' it off with my fingernail. Very dissappointing. I used an etch primer, followed by many coats of undercoat (grey and white)sanded smooth with 1200 wet and dry and then 3 coats of red topcoat coach paint. Whilst the finish is great the paint seems not to have hardened or keyed onto the undercoat. I pased this on to the supplier but have not recieved a reply. Anyone else had this problem or can provide an explaination.


The only thing that comes close to this is a situation where there has been a barrier to prevent adhesion. A gut feeling says the presence of damp / condensation film making a barrier. Another possibility is contamination of the topcoat, but I'm sure you would have noticed this by the way it went on....

Have you tried a good dose of heat to see what happens? If there is a barrier film under the paint, it may well blister. On the other hand it might secure the adhesion. Worth a try perhaps Question
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Bitumen Boy



Joined: 26 Jan 2012
Posts: 1735
Location: Above the snow line in old Monmouthshire

PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 1:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm thinking damp as well - was it painted recently? I avoid painting in the winter if I can as I find it can take days to go off in my garage, not so much due to temperature I fancy as the humid air not letting the solvent evaporate. Another thing that can sometimes give trouble is where there's enough of a delay between undercoats and colour for the undercoat to dry very hard.
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Kelsham



Joined: 18 Jan 2009
Posts: 349
Location: Llandrindod Wells Powys

PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought Tekaloid had ceased production? I used to use it and never had any problems. I seem to recall it took about 24 to 48 hours to harden.

I agree with damp being a likely cause of your problem. I have painting jobs piling up waiting for a good dry spell.

Kels.
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ajlelectronics



Joined: 04 Oct 2010
Posts: 168
Location: Gloucester

PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting that you went to 1200 grit. My pro bodyshop goes to 400 for solid topcoat and 800 for metallics. Maybe the 1200 is too fine?
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4104
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 11:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ajlelectronics wrote:
Interesting that you went to 1200 grit. My pro bodyshop goes to 400 for solid topcoat and 800 for metallics. Maybe the 1200 is too fine?


I'd agree, 1200 is close to the grade of paper to use on a top coat, prior to liquid cutting, (I think Farecla recommend 1500 with G3), possibly the topcoat didn't have a decent key to adhere properly?

Dave
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Mitchelld



Joined: 24 Nov 2011
Posts: 17

PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

although ive never used that kind of paint and its spraying only for me, im having lots of trouble with drying times as of late due to temperature.

ive found that adding accelerator to my laquer i shelping a lot though.
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Colourweldukltd



Joined: 12 Mar 2012
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a though and worth checking with who made it but did they put the driers in the paint?

I used to work for a company called Ludlows Of Luton and we used to make loads of the stuff and it isn't impossible to think that the driers didn't go in. The paint will harden but only after at least a week and by that time moisture etc can get in as the paint hasn't cross linked (hardened) it is open to attacks.

Hope that helps a bit
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peppiB



Joined: 30 Jun 2008
Posts: 686
Location: Newcastle upon Tyne

PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few years ago I managed to use 1200 instead of 400 grit on undercoat (an age related mental block I think) The top coat just peeled straight off as a result. Ended up using a heat gun to strip all the paint off the car Sad
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SV8Predator



Joined: 24 Aug 2008
Posts: 136
Location: Further up the creek

PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There will be no problem with the formulation of the paint provided it was mixed correctly in the tin. Damp will not cause an adhesion problem as described.

In this case it was the use of 1200 grade paper. This grade is for final flatting before subsequent polishing. It is not for keying to provide adhesion.

The primer coats should have been sanded with 400 grade before top coating.
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