Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Stephen Fulcher]

I have an Austin Eight 2-door car from 1940.

I am in the process of doing some minor work to it to enable it to pass the first MOT it will have had in a couple of years.

The main trouble I am having is with the horn and trafficator switch mounted in the centre of the steering wheel.

I was having difficulty getting the trafficators to work, with the voltage on the coil fluctuating with movement of the switch. I concluded that the contacts on the switch were most likely contaminated. The workshop manual states to remove the switch for cleaning by slackening a lock nut on the end plate of the steering box and pull out the whole assembly from the car. I duly slackened said nut, but unfortunately the switch assembly came apart in my hand whilst attempting to remove it, the bakelite having become brittle and fragile. The actual tube that is mentioned in the manual, did not move, although it can be turned by hand.

I believe I would be able to put the assembly back together if I were able to remove it from the car, but am reluctant to exert any force onto it for fear of causing more damage. Ideally however it should be replaced as I suspect it will cause more trouble in the future.

Does anyone have any idea of either of the following?

1. Where (or indeed if) I can get a replacement switch assembly?
2. What is the best way to remove the existing one from the car without causing any damage?

Thanks in advance.

[Rick]

Welcome to the forum. I remember doing a similar job on my 49 A40 Devon, removing the nut at the base of the steering box and yes, the whole shebang came out - it almost reached the back window by the time it was withdrawn. Can you not grab a part of the tube that remains inside the column, and pull it upwards?

As for sourcing a replacement, it sounds like a job for autojumbles, ebay, and possibly advertising in something like the Classic Motor Monthly subscription paper.

I'd be inclined to set up temporary switches for the horn and trafficators, to get it MOTd (if you're going down that route), then spend time looking for the correct parts while having the car roadworthy. A friend has an 8, I'll ask him if he's found any spare parts in his travels. He recently had to source a column and box for his, but I'm not sure it came with any switchgear. I found someone advertising Austin 8 or 10 bits on ebay, and put him in touch with my friend who then bought the box assembly.

RJ
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[47Jag]

Stephen.

Did you loosen the three grub screws in the hub of the steering wheel?

Art

[Stephen Fulcher]

Rick, thanks for your suggestions, I had not thought of rigging up a couple of temporary switches. I would be grateful if your friend can offer any insight into the problem.

Art, it would seem you have hit on my error. The screws are not mentioned in the Workshop Manual that I have, but I see the holes in the wheel to access them so will try and loosen them off when I get a chance. Thanks.

Is it possible that some other models used the same switchgear?

[Rick]

[Stephen Fulcher]

I have just had another look this morning, and thought it might be easier to post some photos just to be sure that what you are saying is tallying up to what I think I am seeing as I do not want to do any more damage.

Firstly, this is the nut I loosened at the bottom of the column circled yellow. Is it the correct one?


Secondly, I cannot locate the grub screws that were mentioned here. I can see two holes in the steering wheel which would seem sensible, but cannot see any screws beneath them. Is either of these correct?



Thanks again for all your help with this mess!

[Rick]

It may be different to what I had to do - the nut that I had to undo on the A40 Devon, was underneath the bottom of the steering box - it was fitted to the threaded lower section of the stator tube, ie the tube that extends the full length of the column, down which the wiring passes from the switch. In fact I had to disconnect the wiring bullet connectors, where they poked out from the steering box, in order to remove the nut fully.

While the 8 and 10 pre-date the Devon slightly, I wouldn't be surprised if the arrangement was similar. Unfortunately I no longer have an 8 manual to check.

RJ
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[Rick]

Just to add, I found my old Austin 8 parts list and there's an illustration of the box. There's what looks like a brass nut, that looks like it would fit to the end of the stator tube through which the wires pass.

I remember removing this nut on the A40, in order to withdraw the switch and tube up through the column into the car. I don't recall undoing anything at the steering wheel end, but a) it was a few years ago and b) the 8/10 may be different. If I get chance I'll speak to my oppo who has an 8, he's recently had his apart while replacing his steering box.

RJ
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[Rick]

Following on from above, my hunch is that this nut connects to the end of the tube that passes through the column, up to the centre switch.



RJ
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[47Jag]

Stephen,

Your picture shows a pinch clamp which probably doesn't use the upper grub screws. The picture that Rick posted has a compression fitting and that style I would think uses the grub screws. Somewhere along the line Lucas who supplied the parts changed to a two part stator tube where the main tube is anchored at the bottom and the switch end only has about 6-8" of tube with a keyway to locate into the fixed tube and this will have three grub screws to secure the switch.

As to your problem: It's a pity you didn't include a picture looking into the steering wheel. Is there a round plate in there that the switch would screw onto. This will be welded to the stator tube. If so loosen the pinch clamp and withdraw the whole tube, wires and all. Is your switch broken irreparably or has it just become detached from the plate?

Art

[Rick]

I've a feeling my friend bought his steering column and box from this ebay seller. The listing mentions that various parts, including a bakelite horn push assembly, are still available so it'd be worth contacting and asking the question:
http://bit.ly/11erlzy

hth, RJ
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[colwyn500]

Is this the inside bit where you say things have broken?

JAN_5834 by peterthompson, on Flickr

[Stephen Fulcher]

Two more photos.

Firstly, the bit that came off:

Not a great photo, but there is quite a lot of damage on the bakelite portion of the switch.

Second, the bit that is left on.

The metal ring rotates with the steering wheel, the bakelite does not.

[Stephen Fulcher]

Would there be any harm giving the tube a small tap at the bottom of the steering box to see if that moves it?

[ukdave2002]

Not 100% the Austin 8 and Morris 8SE bits are the same, but I'd be surprised if they are not!

I have some horn /switch units, in various states of repair so may be able to help out with parts?





Cheers

Dave