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1957(ish) Hillman Minx Convertible - recommissioning
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Scamonomics



Joined: 28 Apr 2014
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, the distributor is very user friendly: it has a finger screw Advance/Retard adjuster on it. I advanced it and it sounded faster. Took it for a test drive and it now pulls respectably and can keep up with modern traffic (on the flat at least - yet to try a big hill...)

It still pops on overrun, and grumbles after turning the ignition key off, but it's a lot better than it was.

I think she's ready to be booked into the local garage for a health check and a professional look-over.

Many thanks

Stumbler
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Scamonomics



Joined: 28 Apr 2014
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 5:31 pm    Post subject: correct wiring for contact breaker/distributor Reply with quote

Hi,

Having been electrocuted a few times by my high tension leads I decided to renew all the ignition electrics.

However, I'm not sure I've rewired the new parts correctly. Unfortunately, when I took them off in the first place, the nut flew off with the wires so I didn't see how they originally fitted.

So my problem is this:

Having replaced the capacitor and the breaker points I turned on the engine only to discover the green wire had shorted and burnt through. I rewired it and ascertained that it shorted whenever it touched either, the contact breaker spring or the bolt to which the green wire and capacitor screw onto.

So I have rewired it and placed the capacitor connector and the green wire together but isolated from both the contact breaker spring and the bolt by nylon washers (I had to fabricate the top one). so now there is no shorting when I turn on the ignition key...

However, now, when I put a test light on the green wire it doesn't go out, whether the breaker points are closed or open... That doesn't tally with the tuning instructions in the Haynes manual.

I'm doing something wrong here that's very basic but I can't figure it out... It can only be the wiring on that bolt.

I'd be grateful for clarification of which connector is supposed to touch what on that bolt?

Kind regards

Stumbler



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kevin2306



Joined: 01 Jul 2013
Posts: 1331
Location: nr Llangollen, north wales

PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a brand new, old stock distributor on the shelf that I can photograph when I get home if thats of any use?

Kev
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Penman



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 3945
Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
When it all flew apart, did you lose the insulating collar that prevents the wires touching the threaded spindle and it's nut, which the breaker spring and the 2 wires go to?
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Bristols should always come in pairs.

Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10
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kevin2306



Joined: 01 Jul 2013
Posts: 1331
Location: nr Llangollen, north wales

PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The points set-up is totally different on my new (old stock) distributor sorr so a picture of it wont help

Kev
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Penguin45



Joined: 28 Jul 2014
Posts: 314
Location: LBA

PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote





Lucas 25D dizzy - these any help? Side view shows the "stack" of the wiring and nylon bushes fairly well.

P45.
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'67 Wolseley MkI 18/85, '70 Austin MkII 1800 The Landcrab Forum.
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Scamonomics



Joined: 28 Apr 2014
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 11:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies,

Yes, Penguin45, that's the bit that interests me, especially that side view.

Unfortunately, I can't quite make out what the order of the stack is. Can you tell which wires are connected to what?

I can see that none of them appear to be connected to the spindle bolt. I think I lost a washer when it flew apart, but I've made a new one, so that bit I've got right. So, the big question is: are either or both of the two wires (the red one and the braided one) making contact with the contact breaker spring? It looks to me, that on your dizzy, they are.

many thanks

Stumbler
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Penguin45



Joined: 28 Jul 2014
Posts: 314
Location: LBA

PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They seem to go:

Plastic washer.
Points loop.
Wiring.
Plastic washer.
Nut.

HTH.

P45.
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'67 Wolseley MkI 18/85, '70 Austin MkII 1800 The Landcrab Forum.
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Scamonomics



Joined: 28 Apr 2014
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, if I understand you correctly, both your wires are in contact with the metal points loop.

In which case, I have a problem... because when I touch my green connector to that points loop I get a massive short spark...

(Pause while I think....)

Okay, the only other thing that I changed is the coil.... Found it, I've wired up the coil incorrectly... I'll report back..

Many thanks for your help.

Stumbler
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Scamonomics



Joined: 28 Apr 2014
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2015 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Winter came and went and, I guess because it's a (permanent) convertible, the Hillman got forgotten about...

I struggled to get the car running after fitting new electronic components. (Tip: always fit one component at a time then run the car. If there's a problem you'll know what caused it. I changed everything at once and then had to start from scratch figuring out what I did incorrectly.

It turns out I committed the ultimate rookie error - almost too embarrassed to say it - I fitted two spark plug leads on the wrong plugs... Ah, really annoyingly, it was my older brother who discovered the error!!! There's really nothing worse.

Anyway, we got the old girl running and timed the ignition using a strobe and it all seemed to work very well. The car took four adults up a steep track without a problem.

However, I drove it a couple of times afterwards and she never seemed quite as powerful as she was last year before I changed the electrics. Then, out of the blue, while I was out driving she backfired and died on me. Nothing I could do would start her, however, an hour later, she started up fine. I drove off, only for it to backfire again, about fifty yards down the road, and die on me again.

I've since rechecked the timing and although the mark is hitting TDC, the timing light seems incredibly erratic. It's as if the spark is missing on some turns. Again, I can drive her about fifty yards, then she's had enough.

I'm now thinking of fitting eletronic ignition - see new thread. However, if anyone has any thoughts on this problem I'd be interested to read them.

Many thanks

Stumbler
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Scamonomics



Joined: 28 Apr 2014
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 6:31 pm    Post subject: Dizzy working loose. Reply with quote

It turns out that the distributor was working itself loose and thereby throwing out the timing. also, the earth connection to the block was loose, so the spark was very weak.

We've rectified both these problems and, touch wood, she's running well again. Though I still can't help but think there's a bit more to come from the old girl yet. however, before i do anything more, I am just going to run her. There may be varnish in the carb or some other self-correcting gremlin.

Stumbler
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