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E93A oil pressure gauge
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ajb100



Joined: 30 Jan 2015
Posts: 16
Location: Chippenham, Wiltshire

PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 11:36 pm    Post subject: E93A oil pressure gauge Reply with quote

Hi guys, first post here and looking for a bit of experience.

I'm building a cannon trials car which uses a ford 1172 E93A engine. I'd really like to have an oil pressure gauge to keep an eye on things, and I've seen people mention having gauges on these engines, but there's no were to take a reading from?

Does anyone know how this is done? With the engine being such a lump, I was thinking of just drilling and tapping into an oil line in the block or the feed pipe from the pump.

Thanks in advance


Last edited by ajb100 on Sun Feb 01, 2015 12:41 am; edited 1 time in total
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 12:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi AJB,

Welcome to the forum.

The oil gallery is open sided and closed off by the tappet cover. The gallery is just above the bottom row of fixing bolts. There should be a connection for an oil pressure gauge or a bypass filter just forward of the tappet cover.

If you remove the tappet cover you will be able to see where you could drill into it if the other connection is in use for an oil filter

Peter
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Last edited by peter scott on Sun Feb 01, 2015 10:58 am; edited 1 time in total
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have three options here, easy first;
1. there is an oil pressure switch drilling in the block, just to the rear of the timing chain cover extension, at the front N/S of the engine. There may be a blanking plug in place already.
2. Fit a 100e inspection cover, these have a drilling that goes to the oil gallery where an adapter can be fitted.
3. Purchase, or borrow the Cooper book on how to tune the 10hp; this shows where the drillings are, and also explains how to fit a remote oil filter and/or an oil cooler.
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ajb100



Joined: 30 Jan 2015
Posts: 16
Location: Chippenham, Wiltshire

PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally got back on this today, and thank you for your replies. Both of your descriptions lead me to this blanking plug here, is this the point?



Thanks
Alex
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes that's it, and whilst you are there, I notice your fuel pump drive is blanked off, this is an ideal place to fit an additional breather.
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ajb100



Joined: 30 Jan 2015
Posts: 16
Location: Chippenham, Wiltshire

PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does the standard breather struggle on its own? I'm wary making more holes in the block as being a trials car, it will spend most it's time floundering in mud.

Thanks
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
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Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 10hp is notorious for its breathing, when racing we fitted a breather out of the timing cover plate, and supplemented this with the aforesaid redundant fuel pump drive hole.

What kind of tuning are you looking at? Have you a Ford 8 head?
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ajb100



Joined: 30 Jan 2015
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Location: Chippenham, Wiltshire

PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advise, I'll have to double check that fits with the regs but can't see why not.

As for modifications, the only plan is to fit some new stiffer valve springs which were NOS from 1974 and some adjustable tappets, which will lead me to starting another thread at some point about tappet gaps.

Out of curiosity, what racing did you do?
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
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Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I raced the Morgan in the MTWC championships. I raced, and the series still races all over the UK, and into Europe. Brands, Snetterton, Cadwell, Oulton, Donnington, Mallory, Croft, Lydden, and overseas to Zandvort and racing in other parts of Europe including hill climbs in Switzerland, and track racing in the USA.
If you are running a standard camshaft, then do not waste your money on new springs or adjustable cam followers, stick to the standard more reliable ones. Maximum power (all of around 29bhp) occurs somewhere around 3800rpm, this will not create valve bounce with standard springs, Altering the cam timing to the 100e timing gives around another 2bhp at around the same rpm, an 8hp head will pep things up noticeably, increasing compression ratio from around 6:1 to around 7.5:1.
Should you choose to alter the carbs, try to source an Aquaplane exhaust and inlet manifold, these bolt readily on with no changes to the exhaust system, and give another 2 or 3 bhp using twin SU's. To get a few more horses, Small Fords sell an exchange fast road cam, you will need adjustable tappets with this, and moves the max power up another 2 or 3 bhp, at around 4200rpm, stander valve springs are still ok.
To help maintain running and oil temperature, you will need to do some work to the cooling system. In the cylinder head, blank off the water holes to the opposite side to the valve pockets, and fit a water pump, this keeps the valves cooler than allowing the coolant to run at the hotter side of the engine. As I have said before, the Cooper book gives some suggestion as how to tune, the figures quoted are a bit inflated, and the concepts and technology old, but still a good basis for oil pumps, oil cooling and head/block work.With minimal work, you can up the power to around 40bhp, and even 45 depending on the camshaft, the best i obtained on the rolling road was around 49 at the flywheel. The Cooper book also has suggestions to alter the drillings in the crank on 2 and 3 journals to reduce the centrifugal effect at high rpm to keep oil in the main bearing. I have always balanced the crank/flywheel/clutch assembly to make it smoother. The MTWC series has strict rules, in the class I ran in, no eternal changes were allowed other than carbs/exhaust. I found a really good web sight that details exhaust length and diameters to tune for max power at different rpm, with racing I decided torque was the be-all and tuned for that as, 90% of the time you are accelerating and braking. I also upped the clutch, finding that the Sprite clutch has the same spline dimensions in the centre plate, a bit of machining on the fly wheel, any my fathers brother Robert appeared again. Try google'ling "lawnmower racing", as the side valve engines used in these are tuned to an nth' degree to get more power, and utilising modern technology.
Best of luck
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
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Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ka wrote:
I have always balanced the crank/flywheel/clutch assembly to make it smoother.


Not just smoother. You can loose quite a bit of power by uselessly shaking things.

Peter
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't want to drift off the subject, but crank balancing is an interesting science. The place I had mine balanced at, was as always, a friend, who allowed me to not just watch but take part. He started with the bare crank, spun it up to around 12,000 rpm, which is far beyond E93 territory, and took a reading. He then stopped the machine, and similar to wheel balancing machines, moved the crank around until the pointer indicates the imbalance, and got the grinder out. When the crank was within tolerances, he fitted the fly wheel, ditto, then the clutch and balanced the whole lot. We even marked which bolts holding down the pressure plate went in which hole.
I asked him about the markings on the dial. and the measuring system in use. He said to cut a long explanation short he would show me.
He took a pea sized piece of blue tack, and stuck it adjacent to the ring gear on the fly wheel, spun the crank up, and the machine registered around 500, then stopped the machine removed the blue tack and did the same again, with the machine registering around 20.He advised me that he aims for around 20-25, below the guided amount. Shows how a few grams, makes a difference.
When reassembling, I balanced rods, (end to end and overall) and pistons, (I have an old paint weighing/mixing set of scales that weigh to a tenth of a gram). Whilst not 6 cylinder smooth, even when holding at around 3500-4000rpm, the engine felt smooth, and at the worst it would do no harm. I had also invested in an old Crypton tuner, modern cars do not use this old technology hence it was an E-bay bargain. Made a huge difference in identifying issues without rolling road costs, and has the added bonus of making the un-tuned road engine smoother. I have two complete engines, the original it came out of the Malvern works with, that is very standard to not upset the insurers when driving the car on the road, and the tuned version I was happy to develop, and beat the meat out of on the race track.
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
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Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is interesting and well worthwhile. Like you Ka I got my crank, flywheel and clutch dynamically balanced and I balanced my rods and pistons. It made a significant difference to how well it rev'ed.

http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk/new%20page%2015.htm

Peter
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Last edited by peter scott on Thu Nov 22, 2018 11:29 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Roger-hatchy



Joined: 07 Dec 2007
Posts: 2135
Location: Tiptree, Essex

PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hope ypou don't mind me butting in.

KA do you have the ISBN number for the Coopers book.

I thought I had it on reserve from the library.
Reserved last November, gave them a nudge last week only to be told, still over due since 2007 Rolling Eyes Laughing Laughing
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This one?

http://www.bookfinder.com/search/?ac=sl&st=sl&ref=bf_s2_a1_t1_1&qi=bAICpPf.ll316fkWfuMyoqlsamg_1423331892_1:2534:11082&bq=author%3Dcooper%2520b%26title%3Dtuning%2520side-valve%2520fords
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like the job, there is also one on e-bay, in Australia.
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