Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[D4B]

Yes there will be plenty of pottering about

More progress today in the sunshine.....

Clutch & Flywheel removed, and I can conclude that the rear crank seal is leaking:



Front axle removed and ready for a clean up:

[vitesse]

Good progress Steve. It must be quite satisfying taking everything off and cleaning it up and bolting to that nice shiny new chassis.

Tony

[christine lowery]

we used to buy our landy tyres from
Dundee tyres ltd Carlisle airport

they but ALL the mod surplus stock
christine

[D4B]

Thanks Christine, will contact them if I need some....

More rusty plates on the chassis held on with just seam sealer!!!



does anyone on here have experience of changing the crank rear oil seal on one of these?



Any advice welcomed

[vitesse]

That's some bodge Steve. It's clearly someone in the past has tried to cover up that hole to fool either a MOT tester or a potential buyer.

I don't think morally I could do that sort of thing.

Tony

[D4B]

He had a bit of a trim today

[peter scott]

Clearly a short wheelbase LR.

Peter
_________________
http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[Rick]

[D4B]

If you keep taking bits off, this is what you end up with:



Engine was the second to last part out:



Earlier this week I delivered the bulkhead to be repaired and galvanised by these guys:

http://www.ashtreelandrover.com/About_Us.html

The very last part to be removed from the old chassis, was the steering relay.
It was most definately the most stubborn!
The official Land Rover workshop manual says you will need a brass drift to assist with removal.

After a few goes with that, I moved on to using a very large 3/4" drive socket as a pressing tool,
with my trolley jack under it against the weight of the engine,
but no luck.
After about 100 clouts with a large sledge hammer,
still wouldn't budge!!

In these situations the only option is cesarean section:







Not a princess I know, but I was very pleased

[colwyn500]

That certainly is a monster of an lever and bush. You would never have got that out with all the rust by the factory method.
Are you now going to rebuild the engine or is it clean up and re-assemble now?

[kevin2306]

Lashings of copperslip will make removal of the relay a simple task in future years. Did the one on my previous lightweight and thankfully some kind soul had put a few brushfulls of copper grease which helped a huge amount.

Looking really good

Kev

[D4B]

Cheers Kev, Peter, everything will be cleaned up and either painted or in some cases oily ragged as I am trying to avoid over restoration.....

The fuel pump (with it's glass filter), water pump, stat housing, heater valve, oil filter housing, and engine mount brackets will all be removed cleaned and painted
(if necessary) as they are all really crusty. While they are all off the block will be cleaned up and painted though I am not keen on that pale green which was original,
might go with satin black?

Also it needs a rear crank oil seal which involves removing the sump,
then once all that's done, it will be fitted onto new chassis.

Looking forward to that part!

Steve

[Penman]

Hi
Won't satin black make it more difficult to spot any odd leaks that might develop?
_________________
Bristols should always come in pairs.

Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10

[kevin2306]

[D4B]