Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[kevin2306]

[D4B]

Still struggling on..... the rear crank oil seal is proving a real headache:



Surprised how clean it was inside, and no metal swarf in the sump either



This is the rear main bearing lower half which has to be removed
to replace the rear crank oil seal and retainer halves:





What is defeating me at the moment is how to fit this back in without
damaging those cork T pieces.... it's a tight fit even without them!!

[D4B]

The latest puzzle now available from Land Rover:

[Penman]

hi
I think Antony Gormley could devise a stunning bit of garden art for you from those pieces.
_________________
Bristols should always come in pairs.

Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10

[D4B]

[Calum]

The factory recommend using two chamfered blocks, bolted to the sump mating surface on the bottom of the cylinder block (I am actually going to make some at work over the next couple of weeks for use in the P4's engine rebuild!) These guide the 'T seals' in as you push the bearing cap down. I would also soak the cork seals in some fresh engine oil first to make it easier and a lot less likely to damage the seals!!

Also don't cut the T seals too short or they'll shrink down and you'll get a leak again... Can't remember what the book suggests but it's in the reason of a 1/16" or so.

[D4B]

Hi Calum,

Yes I have seen the seal guides part number 270304, but at about £50 per pair I will have to find another way.

Other Landy owners have used screwdrivers or feeler guages to help with this. I will take your advice and soak the cork seals with clean oil, and try again today....

Many Thanks

[Calum]

Thin shim can work well (think this is how I did it on the 6 pot, but can't remember for sure!). I am going to make some blocks at work as they really aren't technical. Heck anyone with a hacksaw, drill and a good file could make an effective pair!

[D4B]

I have now managed to fit this oil seal assembly, and I have refitted the engine on to the new chassis.

The key to fitting these T seals was plenty of oil on the cork seals, and I used a body repair dolly at a steep angle on one side at a time
to persuade the seals in as I very gently tapped the block down with a rubber mallet.

[Fluffle-Valve]

I have a Series 3 and I love it. Great vehicle to have and I use it most days of the week. It's my work horse and pleasure vehicle all in one. Right now, I'm away for the weekend with mine in Fakenham camping out with the Series 2 club international rally.
_________________
Series 3 1972 LWB Truck Cab Pick Up. My daily drive.

[D4B]

[D4B]

It took 13 weeks to turn around, but I finally have my repaired and galvanized bulkhead back

Here's a reminder of how it departed:











And here's the shiny transformation:





Prepped with T-Wash to allow paint to stick:



Etch primed:



Top coat:



Next job bolt it on

[LANDROVERSWFL]

Any new progress on your restoration ?

[D4B]

[D4B]

Another little job ticked of the very long list; Rear Diff Oil Seal





Also the Bulkhead was mounted, with some difficulty actually, had to use a bottle jack between the chassis and a lower foot
to persuade it out about another 12mm, Ashtree Landrover assured me this is to be expected after hot dip galvanizing



Bought some oil with free screwdrivers from that shop I swore I would never go in......