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Gearbox advice
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Roger-hatchy



Joined: 07 Dec 2007
Posts: 2135
Location: Tiptree, Essex

PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 6:54 pm    Post subject: Gearbox advice Reply with quote

I posted a while back about a Morris 8 gearbox ID.
Can't find the post so have started this one.

I have a query as to weather it is alright to mount a gearbox on a canter.

I have started to try and sort things out as to what needs doing to fit mate the Morris to my car

The bell housing on the Morris is about 1/8th inch wider than the 100e gearbox. no problem with that

The bolt hole do not line up as hoped, most are just out of line,
About half the hole out of line, so and will make it almost impossible to make an adaptor plate, I was wondering if it would be OK to have the gearbox about 5 degrees on the tilt, this would move the alignment enough to make it easier to make an adaptor plate.

Someone suggested elongating the holes with a stone Question Rolling Eyes
Rather reluctant to do that thank you.

With regards to the gearbox/engine mount I will be making up one to suit the box.
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Farmer John



Joined: 18 Feb 2010
Posts: 181
Location: Manawatu NZ

PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 8:52 pm    Post subject: Morris gbox to Ford Reply with quote

Hello Roger. Rotating the gearbox to suit would not bother me for a second, the worst effect would be oil leaking if it turned far enough. The standard oil volume will be fine.
The big hurdle is alignment, a gearbox is so sensitive to misalignment, it will jump or more correctly wind itself out of gear if not perfect.
Some points that you have probably considered already:-
Measuring the gbox with the input shaft in place will not be good enough unless there is a turned surface on the front bearing retainer that you can get at. Optimum is to use the front bearing hole but that means dismantling the gbox.
The gbox holding bolts need machined flat surface for the heads to tighten onto. They will loosen without. Best to redrill engine holes,but if there is enough thickness milling new flats might be preferred.
The key to repeatably accurate fitment is locating pins, the factory uses dowels or otherwise studs in the engine so that the unthreaded part of the stud locates the gbox. You do not need the 5/16 or 3/8 dowels, 1/8 bronze welding rod will suffice.
My opinion:- Measure the box and engine as accurately as possible. If necessary make up a tool involving a straight-edge to transfer measurements to connecting faces. Mark for three bronze dowels and drill.
Clamp box to engine using the pins and drill holding bolt holes to be tapped. Drilling the same as gbox holes will mean going up in bolt size, can you work around that with heli-coils or re-drill gbox holes? If the bolts finish up with extra clearance in the gbox that will not matter.
It will be interesting to see how the vehicle performs.

John
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4100
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Roger

I agree with FJ there is nothing in the Box that would suffer from that tilt.

Dave
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Roger-hatchy



Joined: 07 Dec 2007
Posts: 2135
Location: Tiptree, Essex

PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks John and Dave

Luckily the 100e / e93a clutch plate fits the Morris box.
I also have a block and tackle and rope hoist so I can mate and fiddle things around to check fit and alignment.

One thing I haven't checked yet is the drive shaft and spline length so a spacer come adaptor might not work.
I have made a couple of templates of both bell housing surfaces, made them from 5mm clear sheet.
Almost but not quite a match but on rotating one or other of the templates they are and even misalignment, if that makes sense.

Might all be academic as I have just found a couple of engines and a wooler bell housing with 105e gearbox for a bargain price., one engine just needs new rings and the other has done 5,000 since recon and the gearbox is zero mile recon.

so one way or another I hope to have four gears next year, make it easier to tow the teardrop I'm building.
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Roger-hatchy



Joined: 07 Dec 2007
Posts: 2135
Location: Tiptree, Essex

PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

An update.

The Morris box is not as compatible as I was led to believe.

The bell housing is a fraction larger diameter, no problem.
But found most of the mount holes are about half a bolt overlap, could have fiddle this with an adapter plate and gearbox slightly tilted.
The main problem is the drive shaft and splines are too short and I don't have machine or money to rectify this.

Mean time.

I have managed to get a wooler bell housing and 105e gearbox as a part of a job lot with another 100e engine with only 5,000 miles since recondition,
the engine just came out of the car last Wednesday (2nd Sept.) to be replced with a crossflow, andit was all for a song.
Well the gearbox came FOC as he didn't have his tool box handy to seperate the bell housing and the gearbox.

According to smallford/aquaplane advice the wooler the 105e to 100e mating needs the drive shaft to be modified, the flywheel bearing modififying, relieving some of the bell housing, or trimming the clutch bolts etc.

I have the engine and gearbox slung up to check fitting.
The drive shaft is over length, yes, it fits the flywheel bearing and the splines are about .25 from the bearing.
The 100e and e93 clutch plates have the wrong splines, no problem.
With the bellhousing fitted and the drive shaft fitted into the bearing there is an obvious gap between engine and bell housing.

Making a ring type spacer / adapter plate to fill the gap, and longer mounting bolts, I would think would be simpler than all the machining

Anyone tried this, or am I overlooking something.
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