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1952 Morris Minor Series MM saloon
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 20274
Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2016 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kevin2306 wrote:
That looks great Rick
How does it drive compared to the later models?

Kev


I've not driven many tbh, I'll need to have a drive again of dad's Moggy 1000 to compare the two. I suspect they're very similar to drive. Mine is slightly held back by still having the original MM type of back axle, which will probably mean it's geared down a bit compared to the later cars. The smaller rear window also makes reversing a little less easy - hence a few scuffs low down on my car's rear wings!!!

It pulls well enough (the original sv unit was replaced by a 1098 engine), the steering is pin-sharp and driving over rough roads and level crossings, demonstrates that the structure is very tight, with no clonks, rattles or squeaks. For its age, she drives very well.

If I compare it to the Austin Devon and the Somerset that I had, which were built broadly at the same time as the MM, the driving experiences are notably different. The Somerset especially was a bit roly-poly, and the steering much less precise, as you'd expect with a steering box rather than a rack-and-pinion setup.

My car's speedo is u/s so I'll need to source another probably, the mileometer works so obviously it's connected.

RJ
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Rick (OCC Admin)
Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
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norustplease



Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 549
Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2016 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are a nice drive and yours looks very smart indeed.
Back axle ratio could well be lower than the later 1098 models, have a look on the MMOC forum, there is loads of useful information on there.
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1964 Volvo PV544
1986 Renault 4
1990 Citroen 2CV
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Penman



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
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Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2016 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rick
I picked up a 10cm x 15cm Fresnel lens from my local accessory shop, it wouldn't be too big even for the little window in the mm and if positioned on the N/S of the window should give a good view of the N/S rear corner, with your sloping boot it may even be possible to see the bumper through one.
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Rick
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Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2016 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Penman.

Curiously it wouldn't fire up today and sounded like it was low on compression. It turns out that three valves were stuck open. We freed them off and got it started, and poured in a few slugs of two stroke direct to the carb. The smoke cloud was impressive Smile I'll dig out some UCL and add it to the fuel, but if they persist in sticking I'll pull the head off and check it over.

RJ
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bjacko



Joined: 28 Oct 2013
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Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 8:03 am    Post subject: Sticking valves Reply with quote

I found that an upper cylinder lubricant such as Redex usually does the trick. Put a teaspoon full in each plug hole and leave overnight.
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Penman



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 8:59 am    Post subject: Re: Sticking valves Reply with quote

Hi
bjacko wrote:
I found that an upper cylinder lubricant such as Redex usually does the trick. Put a teaspoon full in each plug hole and leave overnight.

Does that work on an OHV engine?
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Bristols should always come in pairs.

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V8 V10
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norustplease



Joined: 11 Apr 2011
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Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had something like this happen to me on a Renault 4 that had sat in a shed for twenty years. Driving it with clean oil and new fuel seemed to sort things out and after a few false starts, everything was fine.
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Rick
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I removed the head this morning, one of the push rods is impressively bent, so that valve (#2) must have been well stuck. New gaskets are on their way, in the meantime I'll dismantle the head and see what gives with the sticky valves.

RJ
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norustplease



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PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unusual. The problem with elderly A series is usually too much lubrication down the valve stems. Any clues as to what has happened?
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Rick
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The other evening was the first time that I've run it up to proper working temperature, when I did a few miles locally to test things out. I can only think that maybe there's gummed-up old fuel, or corrosion, on one or more valve stems. I've not had chance to pull it apart yet (hedgecutting got in the way this pm!!).




No prizes for spotting the problem here:



The head itself looks to be in good order, although I'll clean everything up and re-lap the valves while I'm at it. I also removed the rad so that I can flush that through. The bores have no wear lip either, so while I'd have preferred not to pull it apart, at least it gives a chance to have a good look at things.

RJ
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peterwpg



Joined: 10 Apr 2008
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Location: New Brunswick. Canada

PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rick. Are you going to dismantle the rocker shaft ? I don't see a valve stuck down.

This is really going off topic. Sorry.
Can I also be bold and comment about the disconnected battery. I was brought up, from way back when (1950's) to always disconnect the Earth/Ground/Chassis connection first. Once false move when disconnecting the Live and there can be a dead short between spanner and body/engine etc.

Getting a nasty bang and a spark is Ok ish, just, but welding the spanner to the car or having sparks flying around oil or petrol is serious.

What is 100% coincidence, is that our Dodge Journey went into the garage to have an A/C seal replaced. I picked it up yesterday and had a look under the bonnet. The cover on the Live side Boost/Charge connection had not been replaced. I spoke to the service desk guy and he snapped back that it was Health and Safety etc etc, to disconnect the battery.
I told him that I knew that, but it should be the Earth side. Ended up with quite a discussion and their head mechanic thanking me and saying that it would be discussed with all their mechanics. Plus they are throwing in a free oil change. Sorry to go miles off topic, but after seeing your photo I would hate to see someone injured or worse.

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Rick
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good point Peter.

After lunch today I dismantled the head. Three of the valves were, as I thought they'd be, reluctant to exit their respective guides. They're not bent nor are they corroded, they just appear to be gummed up with ancient deposits of gummy/sticky old fuel.

I cleaned up one valve as a quick test, the one whose corresponding rod bent the other day, and it now glides up and down in the guide as it should do. Hopefully the rest will clean up equally well, I'll also try and de-gum the guides as best I can while it's apart.

A quick root through some A-Series parts uncovered a suitable replacement rod. I suppose 20-25 years have passed since I last had an A-Series head apart Smile

RJ
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Rick (OCC Admin)
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Rick
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2016 10:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This evening the head was given a good scrub down with a brush and old petrol, as were the valves, the latter were then given a gentle lapping-in and are ready to be re-fitted, once the new gaskets and stem seals arrive in the post - hopefully tomorrow.

RJ
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Rick
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gaskets arrived this am, the valves/springs/seals are now re-installed in the head, and the loose rocker shaft stud has been re-fitted with threadlock.

RJ
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Rick
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2016 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Everything's now bolted back in the car.

I had a bit of a trial trying to set the tappets to the book gap of 0.012". Seven were easy to adjust, but #2 (the one that had the bent rod) wouldn't play ball. I'd set the gap, turn the engine over on the handle, and the gap would disappear. In the end, I removed the rod and with the side cover removed, pulled out the matching cam follower. It was in ok condition, but at the bottom of its travel, it'd stick - probably some gummy old oil or similar. I managed to clean inside where the follower sits, re-fitted the follower, and was now able to adjust - and maintain - the correct gap.

While the rad was off I back-flushed that too.

Most of the problems directly relate to the car having stood idle for quite a few years. Gummy petrol and oil have caused no end of problems. The fuel gauge isn't 100% either, I assume the sender will have gummed up too - what little fuel I drained out stank pretty bad and was a bit gloopy also.

Bar a slight blow at the manifold, it appears to be running ok again, although only a few more local test drives will confirm this for sure...

RJ
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