Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[ALW Ford Popular]

Thanks KA, have sent you a PM in case you can help. Many thanks again,.

[ALW Ford Popular]

So - thanks to all for replies and help. New old stock standard con rod now located and fitted !

Should the gudgeon pin be a tight fit into the piston?? Mine all have the ability to rotate (but tightly) which surely will then have a chance that it will use the piston as a bearing rather than the bush in the con rod??

[ALW Ford Popular]

So no advice on the pins - so fitted as they were, all movement seemed fine on the small end, could rotate the pins by pushing them round.

Anyway - have just tracked down a pair of trafficators that align perfectly with the slots in the body. AND they work !!!!

Will be fitting them shortly. So - they are TRICO and I have the dimensions if anyone has a Pop or and Anglia and has the car with slots in that need filling with light units.

Progress !!!

Off to flush the fuel tank and refit sump.

[ka]

The gudgeon pin should be an interference fit in the pistons, and fit in the little end with movement. The bush in the little end has oil entrance slots allowing it to rotate in the reciprocating manner. If there is play in the pistons then either new pins or/and pistons, The pistons have no bushes and no allowable wear factor.
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KA

Better three than four.

[ALW Ford Popular]

So - today - new battery, checked timing, checked electrics, cleaned out tank, cleaned fuel line (did carb a while ago).

Turned over fine, with choke out carb literally poured petrol into the manifold !!

With choke in it started and ran, bit lumpy.

Put on rubber glove and tweaked distributor for best running.

Removed carb and stripped / cleaned, but still floods with choke out.

Any ideas ??

Sounds great by the way and very happy - last ran over 43 years ago.

Drives, clutch bit juddery, may improve with use.

[roverdriver]

First check would be to see if the float in the carby is intact. Even a small pinhole will admit petrol and allow the float to sink, therefore opening the needle valve and admitting extra fuel.

Shake the float to hear if there is liquid inside. A more positive test is to totally immerse it in hot water and look for bubbles.

Assuming an intact float, and that the float height is correct ( adjusted by linkages in some carbys) then the only other probability is a leaking needle and seat assembly. These can usually be bought fairly cheaply and take moments to fit.

Dane.
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Dane- roverdriver but not a Viking.

[ALW Ford Popular]

Thanks Dane,

But it is not flooding with choke in. Only when choke selected.

I am going to recheck all air holes on starting venturi. When you pull the choke it literally fills the manifold with fuel !!!!

[peter scott]

I think you need to check whether your cold start device is assembled correctly. Although not identical I think the Pop carb uses a similar system to this:

http://zenithcarb.co.uk/zero-starter/?___store=zenith



Peter
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http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[Rick]

Here's the Zenith as fitted to Ford 10s, from an Australian publication



I assume everything's correct with the jets fitted in the base of the float chamber?

RJ
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Rick - Admin
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[ALW Ford Popular]

Thanks for the diagrams. I have stripped, cleaned and carefully checked all jets and fittings and all seems correct. Float is dry and floats !

Have got a replacement emulsion block gasket to fit and then will go again.

Can't see how fuel could flood only with choke out, unless float level is wrong, but it doesn't flood with choke in !!!

Love the vehicle now that it works ! Pleased that all the bits came right.

[47Jag]

You should perhaps remember that the choke is not an on/off device but an adjustable one. If it floods with full choke, try it with half choke and see how that goes.

Art

[ALW Ford Popular]

Hi, yes thanks for the details. I think that having replaced the gasket and stopped the leak, it is 'user error'.

I am used to pulling choke out fully and starting then returning slowly. More like a usual butterfly arrangement. However, this carb is different and has a separate starting carb essentially !

Incidentally, is it usual for fuel to collect at the base of the inlet manifold on the join to the exhaust? Is this me overchoking it??? Must learn to drive this thing properly!!

[ALW Ford Popular]

So now up to perfecting the running. Using a vacuum gauge I thought !

But - gauge flickers violently all over the place and so I can't set ignition or mixture etc. Have tried a restrictor and it still does it - does this mean that valves or guides or something else - or could it be the type of gauge? Are some more sensitive than others ???

Other than that it is now running really well. Off to get it cleaned underneath then regrease and check out gearbox mounts as a slight vibration on pull away. May just be a rusty clutch.

[47Jag]

ALW,

Have you done a compression test. This would be the first test to run.
There's loads of stuff on vacuum gauge testing on't 'net. Here's an example

http://www.classiccarhub.co.uk/articles/tuning-and-fault-finding-using-a-vacuum-gauge.html

What some of the readings mean.

gauge reading steady 17-22 in Hg indicates normal engine in good condition.
gauge reading low (15-20 in Hg) but steady indicates late ignition or valve timing, low compression, stuck throttle valve, leaking carburetor or manifold gasket.
gauge reading steady but dropping regularly indicates burnt valve or improper valve clearance.
gauge reading dropping gradually at idle indicates choked muffler or obstruction in exhaust.
gauge reading slowly dropping to zero as engine speeds up indicates choked muffler.
gauge reading fluctuating between 15 and 20 in Hg at idle indicates stuck valve or ignition miss.
gauge reading drifting indicates improper carburetor adjustment or minor intake leak at carburetor or manifold.
gauge reading fluctuating as engine speed increases indicates weak valve springs, worn valve stem guides.
gauge reading vibrating excessively at idle but steady as engine speeds up indicates worn valve guides.
gauge reading vibrating excessively at all speeds indicates leaky cylinder head gasket.

Art

[ALW Ford Popular]

Car running well now. Carb strip and new gaskets did the job.

Been over and steam cleaned underside to see what I have actually got under there !

Does anyone know what the wing piping is made of please and where to get ?

Also - headlining material - it is soft - and very dirty !

Thanks
Andrew