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1926 Rover 9 Roadster
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 161

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 8:55 am    Post subject: 1926 Rover 9 Roadster Reply with quote

Update July 8 2017 - Photobucket have just changed their terms so that resolution of my picture links would cost US$400/pa, so the pics will no longer resolve. You can look at them all here - http://s1382.photobucket.com/user/johnpitmanjp928/library/Rover%209%20Restoration?sort=2&page=1

Just took delivery of this mostly restored car. Previous owner sadly passed away last year, having done LOTS of work. There are receipts for overhauls of the engine, gearbox, rear axle ( had a batch of new crown wheels made!) and all the electrical stuff. Also looks like most of the timber is new, and brand new steel panelling made.
So now I need to work out where to start . It needs complete wiring from scratch, most of the flooring, seats rebuilt, interior trimming, and (eventually) a new hood. The hood bows are there but in poor shape, not sure about the rests for when the hood is down. Windscreen frame is complete, but the glass has a corner broken off. The instruments seem to be in good shape, and the lights. All the brightwork has been replated. Dont see any bumper bars yet, but detailed inventory to be completed. Once I think I know whats not therem or if I cant identify some items I will be asking for advice.
Smiths carb - any documentation available on these please?
One good part is it comes with a 'Use and Maintenance' manual and a parts book!
On this link second through 8th pics are it.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/rccapics/page2/
thanks
jp


Last edited by jp928 on Sat Jul 08, 2017 4:57 am; edited 1 time in total
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Rick
Site Admin


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 18036
Location: S. Cheshire

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great to see it jp! looks like an excellent project, I may have a gearbox for a Rover 9 but posting it to Oz isn't really viable (plus it sounds like you're sorted in that department anyway) Smile

1926 Rover 9_6 by Web Master, on Flickr

RJ
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Rick (Admin. oldclassiccar.co.uk)
Various 1930s-1960s relics - Austin, Morris, Bedford, Dodge etc.
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roverdriver



Joined: 18 Oct 2008
Posts: 974
Location: 100 miles from Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello jp928.
I am pleased that the car is in good hands. I saw it in Inverloch last year and was sorely tempted, but decided that I had enough on my hands with a small collection of P4's.
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Dane- roverdriver but not a Viking.
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 5208
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi jp,

Welcome to the forum.

If the carb is the Smiths 5 jet these were used on the Morris Cowleys and Oxfords of the same era and I think there was a reprint of the little manual available from the Bullnose Morris club.

Peter


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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 161

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 1:44 pm    Post subject: 26 Rover 9 Reply with quote

Thanks guys. The carb above doesnt fit mine - its a plain horizontal venturi with a float bowl off the side. And the big bonus in the box of bits - it came with a standing viking mascot! Spear is missing, but thats easy to replicate. I have a spare engine/gearbox unit, but it looks like the output shaft is welded to the 3 point drive flange. Any idea how the brass Lucas headlights go together ? One is assembled (new reflector) the other in bits, but cant workout how they work. Speedo and clock look like they have been refurbished, like new.

jp


Last edited by jp928 on Wed Jun 08, 2016 10:53 pm; edited 1 time in total
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mikeC



Joined: 31 Jul 2009
Posts: 1110
Location: Market Warsop, Nottinghamshire

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I very much doubt it would have had bumper bars originally, so I wouldn't both looking for any!
Lucas headlamps: I would expect the outer rim to be located by three pins fitting into bayonet slots in the bowl. Just push in and rotate the rim anti-clockwise about ten degrees and the rim should come off in your hands. The reflector is almost certainly retained in the same manner; again, push and twist and they should come out...
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 161

PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2016 7:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bit more exploring.

What do taillights of this era look like? I have side lights and headlights and reflectors, but no taillights. If no bumpers, where/how does the rear number plate fit please? My spare is mounted on driver side running board, so there is no rear spare mounting to put the plate on.

Have 2 original Rover badged open end spanners - 1/2 x 7/16 and 7/16 x 5/16. Have to look for more - guessing the set was bigger.

All the replated brightwork is lovely, but I dont yet know where most of it fits!
BTW - the spare engine has a Zenith carb on it, while car has a Smiths unit.

I have 2 holes in dash for small instruments, of which I have 3 - 2 marked in psi (1-60 and 1-100 scales), and one unmarked units, but scale is 1-60. All marked Rover and Eureka. ???

Anybody suggest a good way to flush debris out of a fuel tank ?

thanks
jp
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mikeC



Joined: 31 Jul 2009
Posts: 1110
Location: Market Warsop, Nottinghamshire

PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2016 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The usual Lucas tail light of the period was the AT 201:



These are readily available - circa 50-60, I think - from Austin Seven suppliers, amongst others.

I'm not familiar with the rear of the Rover, but I would expect the number plate (and rear lamp) to be mounted on a hoop of metal, probably 1" x 3/8" attached to the underside of the body, or possibly on simple brackets again attached to the rear bodywork. Alternatively they might be fixed to a folding luggage rack which would be mounted onto the chassis.
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 161

PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 1:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the taillight, will start building a list of stuff like that to assemble. Better start going to swap meets where stuff like this turns up.

jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 161

PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2016 5:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a view of the rear area, showing floor work to be done.


Most of the mechanical stuff is supposed to be done, but I need to see it for myself. Pulled the right front wheel and brake drum off - took some tapping to get the drum off. Newly bonded linings are good, almost no use on them, but freshly machined drums should not be stored near salt air - cleaned the rust off , and the drum went back on much more easily.



Left front was much the same, although there seems to be some lining contamination from over oiling of the cam at the bottom of the drum. Drums look like 9-3/4" dia. Not sure that the linings were radius ground to suit the drums - feels like some high spots, or the drums are out of round?
Only driving will really tell, so might have to go back in there later.
The brake rods on the right side are not very straight at all - definitely needs some work there. Looking around underneath far too many fixing bolts are ugly metal threads. Will have to see if I can find some more in character bolts.
jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 161

PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The documentation has arrived, and I have scanned some of it into pdf files. The wiring page is small enough to email at 2Mb, but the others are quite a bit larger - 11,32 and 45Mb. These are - newspaper article from the day, Operation and maintenance, and a parts book. If anybody wants a copy, tell me how they can be transferred, and it can happen.

Seems the previous owner bought the car around 1985 from a man who got it in the 1940s - there is a registration transfer from 1942 present. Restoration activity (receipts) started around 1991-2.


jp
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SpiggyTopes



Joined: 17 Jun 2014
Posts: 47
Location: Portugal

PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would love to see more photos!
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 161

PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 2:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are the instruments and mascot:-

The oil can is Rover badged.

Here is the parts book pic of the throttle pedal that I do not have any of - item 56530 :-

I have the rods that go up the column for advance/retard, and the short linkages can be made m but Dont have a choke rod - or air strangler control.

thanks
jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 161

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

More work. A couple of posts elsewhere on this site re specific issues - straightening bent brake rods, issues with dynamo connections etc.
Fuel tank stop cock has a thread I didnt recognize in a poor access location, so have removed tank. Thread is 1/2x24, known as a 5/16 compression fitting, so have ordered the bits for that. Also some 1/8 BSP ->5/16 hose tails to splice a filter/sediment bowl into the carb line. Freed up the stop cock.
Checked gearbox oil level - all good, and clean.
Greased as many nipples as I could find - the grease gun feels like its doing something now that I have refilled it - what PITA job that is!
Pulled the plugs and was able to see nice clean hone marks. Pumped some light oil in, replaced plugs loosely. The front valance needed a bit of adjustment to enable crankhandle to engage easier, and after 4,5 turns got some oil out the line to the pressure gauge - good sign!
There is a thread in Electrical restos about how many wires I need on the dynamo - only have one now. I am told that wiring is all 2 lines to everything, no chassis return, but with only a positive lead out of the dynamo, it seems I need a negative line to the engine body to complete that circuit.

jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 161

PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 6:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pulled the starter again and looked at changing the alignment of the power and ground feeds to look like other examples, rather than one pole very close to the crankcase. Found 4 screws (not very big either!) holding the mounting face onto the body, and on removal it was easy to rotate the plate into the correct place and reattach it. Done!

Pulled the carb and fixed broken choke return spring, and fitted a throttle return spring. Curiously both this Smiths branded carb and the Zenith branded one from the spare engine have "CODE 7854" cast on the main body..? No sign of this on the web.

jp
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