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1926 Rover 9 Roadster
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 12:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sadly I have to report there will be a bit of hiatus in work here. Had a cataract op 10 days ago - remove old lens in eye, insert new artificial one - and had terrific results for 5 days, and then a bug got inside the eye and caused an infection. Result - seems like a thick black stocking is over the lens! Back home after 4 days in Eye&ear hospital, antibiotic injection INSIDE eye (think knives and needles!), waiting to see how well it clears now the infection is stopped - probably take weeks. Very scary at first, as the specialists were saying 'Get into E&E Emergency NOW so we can save your eye!' . Wife had both her eyes done early in the year, inside 10 days, and has had terrific results. Trust me to bugger it up.
Will keep on with small jobs, measuring and planning, but without decent depth perception some jobs are not on - have difficulty pouring a cuppa at the moment.

jp
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colwyn500



Joined: 21 Oct 2012
Posts: 1745
Location: Nairn, Scotland

PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm really sorry to hear that. Take time and let yourself make a proper recovery. You have plenty of opportunity now to think about car issues and work out the plan of attack for when you're back in action again.
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kevin2306



Joined: 01 Jul 2013
Posts: 1359
Location: nr Llangollen, north wales

PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2016 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take care JP, we take our eyesight for granted so rest them eyes, the car will be there when you recover.
Ive taken to wearing some protective glasses when working on the vehicles now, sick of having small bits of debris dropping into my eyes when least expected.

Kev
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norustplease



Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 779
Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2016 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I agree, I had my cataracts done last year fortunately without complications, but it has made me more aware of eye sensitivities (even though my wife, an optometrist, has always preached eye safety to the family).
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1953 Citroen Traction
1964 Volvo PV544
1957 Austin A55 Mk 1
Boring Tucson SUV


Last edited by norustplease on Thu Sep 22, 2016 10:44 am; edited 1 time in total
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2016 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eyesight is improving daily, but still fuzzy. Can do close stuff as I dont need to judge distances.
Fixed the funny bolt issue. As I said recently, I got a piece of threaded round bar from a clubby man that fits . Got an M24 nut, machined the thread and a bit more out until the round was a slip fit, mate welded the round to the nut, and after tidying up the weld dags, and boring out a washer to fit, it all now works, nearly as good as a bought one- cosmetic issue only.
Got a bunch of 6V ~5W LED BA15s bulbs off ebay so I can now populate the side and turn lights with them. Still working out how I am going to run the wiring.

Its easy to connect the advance/retard to the maggy, but how is the hand throttle linkage done so you can lift the idle with it , but using the foot throttle doesnt feedback to the hand lever? Have none of this mechanism, or a picture/diagram of the linkage.

jp


Last edited by jp928 on Wed Oct 05, 2016 12:17 pm; edited 1 time in total
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2016 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jp928 wrote:
but how is the hand throttle linkage done so you can lift the idle with it , but using the foot throttle doesnt feedback to the hand lever? Have none of this mechanism, or a picture/diagram of the linkage.

jp


You need a collar that is fixed to the throttle shaft and then you need a lever that sits next to the collar and has a projection that bears on a similar projection on the collar. The lever is free to rotate on the shaft and can only rotate it by pushing with its projection so there is nothing to stop the normal throttle pedal from rotating the shaft further but the hand throttle determines the minimum throttle opening.

Peter
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2016 5:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally got some motivation back, along with enough sight to go driving again!
Found some odd tongue&groove timber (to match what was there already) to finish the toe board. Along the way I needed to find the angle of the side ramps that support the toe board, so I thought Here's another tool I can buy! Thought some more....I have a smart phone, lets see whats available - sure enough there is an angle finder app for free. Be aware that my garage floor is at ~2d from flat so water will run out the door, and when I manoeuvred the car in, I just jacked up each end in turn and put it on stands. So I start the angle finder, on the car floor - 0 deg, both along and across the car! Now the firewall - 90deg ! Hard to believe. Toe board at 50deg, can cut the wood properly.
Anyway, now have the top 2 planks of the toe board fitted and screwed down. Can now move on to......more wiring - front lighting I think is next.

jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 4:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Front lights are now all installed and wired:-


Side lights are LED, headlights are normal incandescent -


Might have to put ordinary bulbs in the side lights so they dont look SO BRIGHT! Ammeter shows correct drain for 2x24W bulbs = 8A total. Initially the headlights didnt come on, and I was thinking something worn on the switch contacts, but with the cover off it was obvious - I hadnt secured the headlight lead properly, and it had come adrift. Wish all problems were that easily solved!
jp


Last edited by jp928 on Sat Feb 18, 2017 1:39 am; edited 1 time in total
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roverdriver



Joined: 18 Oct 2008
Posts: 1210
Location: 100 miles from Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JP, that is shaping up to be a magnificent car. I hope that I can get an opportunity to see it in the flesh when it is completed.
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Dane! Anytime yopu are going to be in Melbourne you could come and see it....

jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2016 11:41 pm    Post subject: Turn indicators Reply with quote

Despite not being legally required, I decided to fit flashing turn indicators in the interest of safety. I found some motorcycle type lights, 1.25" dia, with wiring through a hollow mounting bolt. I didnt want to drill any more holes to fit them, so there werent many options. The tops of the front guards are bolted to the support arm with two 5/16 coach bolts through a reinforcing plate, either side of the mounting hole for the side lights. The turn indicators used 3/8" hollow bolts. So I drilled the outer 5/16 holes out to 3/8" (actually 10mm) and got some 3/8 coach bolts to suit, and drilled a 6mm hole down the length on the lathe. The light bodies needed some hand filing to get the square shank of the bolt to fit through from the inside(lost my square 3/8 drill bit).
They fit very close to the side light bodies, but I think they will do the job without being too obtrusive.


jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2016 1:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

More progress. Got my refurbed oil pressure gauge and speedo cable back from the instrument people. Cable will now connect to speedo properly. I believe that the speedo wont read correctly, but I am not going to try to correct that until I see what it reads on the road - still no idea what the diff ratio is = nothing in the paperwork I have in this area. I had a flasher can that was supposed to handle LEDs, but it didnt flash at all, so looking for one that will, again. When I get the front turn indicators wired up that will be the front wiring done.

jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2017 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bit more progress, despite the heat here - bit hard to get motivated lately - kidney stone a couple of weeks ago!
Remounted the speedo drive wheel, mounted the speedo in the dash, connected up the cable, easy stuff. Despite the fact that technically I dont need stop lights, I am going to fit them in the interests of safety for all. There is even a loose washer on the pedal to attach a switch to. I got a pull type mechanical switch, as used by motorcycles, and fabricated a bit of steel strapping to mount it on, using a handy hole in a chassis cross member. Still deciding how I am going to power it, but thats the easy part.
Dug out the little chrome dash light, fitted an LED into it, drilled the dash, mounted that.
Finally got a 6V flasher can that will drive LEDs - out of Sweden! Next job on the list, since the front lights are mounted.

jp
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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 249
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2017 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

More work. The front flashers now work, so all the front lights are going. Junction boxes for the wiring will be held into the chassis rails by magnets, and at the front are ready for connections to the rear to be run. Couldnt find anywhere convenient to mount the horn, so its hanging from the stay rod from the firewall to the top of the radiator. All wired up via a 6v relay, working fine. Cut the final piece of flooring so now thats done, assuming the carpet will hide a multitude of sins in that area.
Lowered the car off the stands and rolled it a couple of feet clear of the rear wall so I can get around the back and fit lights there.
Need help with a taillight cum license plate light . Its like a lucas MT110 I think, but all brass. The central all threaded part is 13/16" OD, and has inside , at BOTH ends, 2 sprung pins for BA15D bulbs. The back end is meant to have a male plug provide power and ground, the other end the bulb. Problem is this part inside is not in good condition - insulation seems to be breaking up. There is some sort of cross pin holding it inside the tube, one end flush with the outside, the other end almost impossible to see. Trying to persuade the pin out is not happening. Not enough to grab with pliers.
Anybody recognize this type of light, and know how it might come apart please?



jp
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mikeC



Joined: 31 Jul 2009
Posts: 1771
Location: Market Warsop, Nottinghamshire

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2017 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your brass rear lamp is the standard Lucas AT201 model used on Austin Sevens and many other cars of the period; it was later given the Lucas part number 582. The double-ended bulb holder is available in single and twin contact versions from Antique Automobilist (and no doubt other traders too):

https://www.completeautomobilist.com/products/253-container-double-end-bulbholder
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in the garage: 1938 Talbot Ten Airline
Recently departed: 1953 Lancia Appia, 1931 Austin Seven, 1967 Singer Chamois, 1914 Saxon, 1930 Morris Cowley, 1936 BSA Scout, 1958 Lancia Appia coupe, 1922 Star 11.9 ... the list goes on!
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