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Hillman Super Minx - My First Classic Car
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CWhaley1



Joined: 13 Jul 2016
Posts: 35
Location: Derbyshire

PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2016 2:41 pm    Post subject: Hillman Super Minx - My First Classic Car Reply with quote

Hello all, first time on here so go easy on me! I've finally bought my first classic - a 1965 Hillman Super Minx 1.6 Saloon.

Mechanically the car is fairly sound - good engine, gearbox is smooth and all features seem to work well given the age.

I want to restore the car and keep original and to do that there's a few jobs I wanted to get an idea of price and availability.

- Needs new rear sills
- New front arches
- Hand/Parking Brake is poor
- Rear brakes are poor
- Car pulls to the left slightly
- Rear passenger door locks, but does not close fully

Anyone know where I should start with this?

Thakn you
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 20269
Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2016 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to the forum!

I assume the car's on the road? if so, just use and enjoy it, do the essential jobs (brakes by the sound of it) and pencil the cosmetics for further down the road - that'd be my suggestion anyway Smile

No doubt Kev (Singer Vogue owner) will be along in a while with advice!

RJ
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Rick (OCC Admin)
Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
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kevin2306



Joined: 01 Jul 2013
Posts: 1331
Location: nr Llangollen, north wales

PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2016 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello

The brakes are an easy system to work on so ring these for some service bits. http://www.powertrackbrakes.co.uk/brakes.html

Brakes on mine are really good but I quite like spending time sorting that sort of stuff out.
These cars are quite rudimentary and solid. You see panels on eBay from time to time so keep and eye out.

A great source of parts are these:

http://www.speedyspares.co.uk/

Where abouts do you live?

Kev
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CWhaley1



Joined: 13 Jul 2016
Posts: 35
Location: Derbyshire

PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2016 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi both thanks for getting back on this.

The car's MOT expired early this month unfortunately Sad to pass again, she'll need new rear sills, new front arches, a fix to the rear brakes and a fix to the parking brake.

I can do the parking brake (seen parts on Speedy Spares) and I'll get in touch with Power Track for parts to do the rear brakes, however the sills and arches will have to be done by someone with experience so I'm taking to a local classic car restorer.

Tracking will need doing as well but not a major job. Other than that, the car just needs a tidy up under the bonnet!

Absolutely love driving it and the looks and conversations you get with people.

I'm in Derby and work over in Nottingham.


Last edited by CWhaley1 on Fri Jul 15, 2016 8:57 am; edited 1 time in total
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CWhaley1



Joined: 13 Jul 2016
Posts: 35
Location: Derbyshire

PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2016 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are some exterior shots of the car.

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CWhaley1



Joined: 13 Jul 2016
Posts: 35
Location: Derbyshire

PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I replaced the sparks, distribution cap, HT leads and ignition coil the other day and can't get her to start.

I've since put the sparks back (as they have the correct gap) and replaced the dizzy, but still no luck. Sounds like she nearly starts (turns over) but just doesn't quite start.

One problem I had was the firing order. I was convinced it was 1342 for these engines, but in a photo I took of the engine before doing the work, it doesn't look like that's right.

Does anyone have any pointers or advice on what could be wrong? So frustrating and she started first time every time before I did this. See picture of the engine bay before I did work (I've turned brightness up to show HT leads).

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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 20269
Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sure 1342 would be right on that engine; once you know the direction the rotor arm under the cap turns in, you should be able to work out whether the leads are on in the correct order, by tracing each one to the relevant spark plug on the engine. Of course if no1 is incorrect, then they'll all be out.

Have you touched the points gap at all - perhaps it has closed up?

RJ
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Rick (OCC Admin)
Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
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Minxy



Joined: 22 Sep 2010
Posts: 218
Location: West Northants

PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes it's 1342. If you align the timing marks up on the front cover then the rotor arm should be pointing at no1 segment of the cap.
You say you changed the coil, was it the correct one? And have you changes it back to be sure. Something else to check, are all the wires associated with the ignition system OK I.e you haven't disturbed a fragile wire while rummaging about.
Other than that see if there's a spark when cranking. The easiest way is to pull the lead off a plug connect one of your spare plugs to the lead and then wedge the spark plug to the engine to earth it then crank the engine on the key and see if there is a spark.
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CWhaley1



Joined: 13 Jul 2016
Posts: 35
Location: Derbyshire

PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks both, I was convinced 1342 is the right order. So next jobs are to check the gap on the points and see how it's looking there, check for sparks on each of the plugs and to give the rotor arm a good clean. All the parts I ordered were from Speedy Spares and all correct for my model and year.

I have noticed that some wires are a little fragile, particularly where they connect to the ignition coil (although they were fragile when I got the car), so I'll check everything out and make sure the connections are clean and everything is secure.

I've dedicated this weekend to getting her started again, then the rest of the mechanical jobs afterwards. Plan to give the engine bay and engine a complete clean as well as new rocker box cover gasket (oil leak unfortunately...)

Just a quick question - where are the timing marks?
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Minxy



Joined: 22 Sep 2010
Posts: 218
Location: West Northants

PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a mark on the front pulley and, normally, a raised pointer on the timing cover - at about ten o'clock if you were looking from the front.
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CWhaley1



Joined: 13 Jul 2016
Posts: 35
Location: Derbyshire

PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for this I know where you mean now. I'll take a look at this and hopefully look at testing each of the spark plugs while cranking the engine this Sunday. Hoping it's as simple as a single faulty spark plug!

When she's running I've got somebody coming over with a timing gun to make sure the timing is spot on too. Next job would be to sort all the wires out in the engine bay and then put new shoes on and adjust the brakes.

Will report back with updates! Very Happy
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CWhaley1



Joined: 13 Jul 2016
Posts: 35
Location: Derbyshire

PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just an update to those interested. I spent Sunday working the Minx and did a few service jobs. I put new plugs on and set the gap on them, set the contact point gap and checked the timing with a timing gun (all seemed well).

With a new coil too, the car definitely runs better (really smooth, clean revving now) however idling is a little rough I think.

What areas can I explore in order to improve engine running? I've still got to change the battery cables and clean the earthing points as well as a rewire of the whole engine bay as there's some really questionable work under there! After this I'll replace some gaskets and start cleaning the engine block and bay.
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 20269
Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could have a further look at the mixture setting on the carb, with a view to improving its idling. What colour were the plugs that you removed? They may give a few clues, so long as they had been used during a decent drive out prior to removal to get everything up to temperature.

RJ
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Rick (OCC Admin)
Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
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CWhaley1



Joined: 13 Jul 2016
Posts: 35
Location: Derbyshire

PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a good point actually - I'll have a look at the mixture as I've not previously altered this. Will make a note of current setting though just in case.

Do you add lead additive to your fuel? I'm in two minds over whether to get some, but as of yet have only covered 10 or so miles.

Only thing I really noticed on the plugs was that they were a little sooty/blackened, but importantly no oil on them. Two of them did smell slightly of petrol but for now I'm not too concerned with this.
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 20269
Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The plugs - after a decent run - will give you a very good idea of whether the mixture's right or not. Ideally you want to see a mid-brown(ish) kind of look to them, once fully warmed up and driven for a while. White = too lean, black/sooty = too rich.

Personally I don't bother with any additives, although if a) I was doing high mileages or b) ran on motorways for extended periods, I might look at them again.

RJ
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Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
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