Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

zagatoman · Joined: 31 Aug 2010 Posts: 55 Location: Sutton, Surrey

Hi all, sorry to ask such a stupid question. I am new to my M8 series and have discovered my brake lights are not working, I went to see if everything was fine with the switch but I am having trouble locating it. Can anyone please tell me or maybe photograph the position. I would have thought it would be connected to the pedal but cant see it.

Thanks and sorry, Paul
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Rick · Site Admin Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22437 Location: UK

Are the brakes hydraulic? I think they are on the M8, in which case the switch may be similar to my Moggy MM's, with the switch plumbed into the pipework somewhere, rather than being actuated directly from contact with the pedal. The Moggy's is under the bonnet, near a junction in the hydraulics.

RJ
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bjacko · Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 6:19 am Post subject: Morris * Brake Light Switch

The switch is located on the chassis cross member just rear of the master cylinder and is operated by a "Heath Robinson" wire and spring mechanism attached to the brake pedal.

bjacko · Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 6:53 am Post subject: Morris 8 Brake Light Switch

[img]

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This shows Brake light Switch below driver's floorboard. In this case two wires are used in lieu of one wire and a spring.

MVPeters · Joined: 28 Aug 2008 Posts: 822 Location: Northern MA, USA

I do believe that a spring is needed in that connection between the brake pedal & the switch.
The risk is that the wire connection may
restrict the brake pedal travel
or break = no brake lights
or break the switch.
A spring will avoid this.
If you need a replacement switch, very similar ones are used for the Conductor's bell on buses.
Ding ding!
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2002 MINI Cooper 'S'

zagatoman · Joined: 31 Aug 2010 Posts: 55 Location: Sutton, Surrey

Thanks everyone for the info, thanks bjacko for the photo, a great help.

Just had another dig around my M8 and cant find anything to do with the pedal switch, wires or anything, it looks like the car has had no break lights since it was restored 26 years ago. Did all M8 series have brake lights fitted?

I now know what I need and how to fit so thanks again to everyone for the help.

Paul
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Enthusiastic amateur classic car nut.

goneps · Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 11:44 pm Post subject:

zagatoman · Joined: 31 Aug 2010 Posts: 55 Location: Sutton, Surrey

Hi Richard,

I have all the correct rubber case lamps fitted with twin filament bulbs but nothing connecting them up.
I have now ordered all the parts needed and connecting them up is my next job. Very strange.

Paul

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goneps · Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 12:56 am Post subject:

Paul,

In that case, how on earth did it pass the MoT in the previous owner's hands?

Richard

zagatoman · Joined: 31 Aug 2010 Posts: 55 Location: Sutton, Surrey

Your guess is a good as mine Richard, perhaps it was all removed for some reason before I bought the car or the car has never had an MOT. Very strange.

As you have probably seen with my questions on the site the car has had a few niggling problems since I bought her 8 months ago but nothing drastic. It’s been great communicating with you all and getting some great advice, this to me is the best part of classic car ownership, sorting out problems and talking to fellow enthusiasts.

Thanks, Paul
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Enthusiastic amateur classic car nut.

zagatoman · Joined: 31 Aug 2010 Posts: 55 Location: Sutton, Surrey

Hi all, me again.

Sorted out my missing brake light situation today and all is working well. I also fitted LED bulbs to make a bit brighter.

One problem I encounter was the connection of the switch to the brake pedal. Usually you would use a spring and a rod to make the connection but I found this set-up didn't work. When my brake pedal was depressed I didn't seem to have sufficient movement in the brake arm to pull the rod and spring to engage the switch as the small amount of movement just expands the spring. I have got around this problem and just connected the brake arm and the switch with a rod so the small amount of movement on the brake arm engages the switch. I know this is not the correct way and wounded if I am doing something wrong. I have no problems with my brakes, in fact they are very good and stop the car well, it’s just I do not have much movement when the pedal is depressed.

This is the switch I have fitted.

Thanks, Paul
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Enthusiastic amateur classic car nut.

MVPeters · Joined: 28 Aug 2008 Posts: 822 Location: Northern MA, USA

I'll just comment that it looks as though that arrangement should work OK.
But
There are 2 styles of that switch, one spring-loaded open, the other closed - check that you have the right one.
That coil spring appears a bit heavy - something like a throttle return spring should be adequate. You should be able to press the brass switch plunger easily with your finger - the spring needs to be just a little bit heavier than that. If the spring stretches before the switch operates, it's too light, but it doesn't look that way to me.
As I mentioned before, the risk with a rod or heavy spring connection is that the brake pedal will be restricted or made heavier than needed.
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2002 MINI Cooper 'S'

bjacko · Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2016 5:49 am Post subject: Morris 8 Brake light Switch

The main problem seems to be the brake pedal arm has more movement than the switch hence the light spring. I found it easier with my two wires.
It is just a case of fiddling until the switch works at the right time on and off. Make sure the lights don't stay on because the circuit is live all the time and your battery will go flat.