Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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Martin A
Joined: 06 Oct 2014 Posts: 17
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Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 4:55 pm Post subject: |
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Peter, Thank for that information. This brings me round full circle. Can you suggest where I can get suitable gaskets for the inlet manifold, or can you confirm they can be made out of gasket paper?
I have been told that Zephyr inlet manifold gaskets cannot be reused, so I don't want to take the inlet manifold off until I have suitable replacement gaskets in my hand.
I don't have any means for testing the compression. But I see from Ebay that compression testers are not expensive - maybe I should send off for one.
Martin |
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Peter_L
Joined: 10 Apr 2008 Posts: 2680 Location: New Brunswick. Canada.
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Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 5:42 pm Post subject: |
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Martin A wrote: | Peter, Thank for that information. This brings me round full circle. Can you suggest where I can get suitable gaskets for the inlet manifold, or can you confirm they can be made out of gasket paper?
I have been told that Zephyr inlet manifold gaskets cannot be reused, so I don't want to take the inlet manifold off until I have suitable replacement gaskets in my hand.
I don't have any means for testing the compression. But I see from Ebay that compression testers are not expensive - maybe I should send off for one.
Martin |
Hello Martin. I haven't worked on those engines since the 60's and 70's, when gaskets were just a trip to the local store/dealer.
There is link further up this thread that pointed to a gasket supplier that may help.
If you test the compression and it is low, squirt some engine oil into the bore and test again. If the test goes to within acceptable, compression is likely being lost passed the pistons. If it is still low then it is being lost past the valves. |
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Martin A
Joined: 06 Oct 2014 Posts: 17
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Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 7:08 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you Peter for that useful information. I will send off for a compression tester.
It is possible that the problem has been resolved.
Early this evening, I remembered that, with a Zenith VIG carb, the active part, with all the jets, the float, and the accelerator pump, can be removed by simply undoing two bolts. So I realised that, with a second carb available (except for a missing external part) I could swap the active part in a couple of minutes. In effect, a complete carb swap, so far as most of the functions of the carb are concerned.
I did the swap and then took the car for a couple of circuits round a 2-mile country route. Once the engine was warm, and with the choke control pushed all the way in, not a single backfire through the carb. Too early to pronounce the problem definitely solved, but looking quite hopeful.
I won't have the chance to drive the car for a week or so now, but once I have been able to verify whether or not the problem really has been resolved, I'll come back here and post a report.
Martin |
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D4B
Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 2083 Location: Hampshire UK
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Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 8:04 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Martin,
Not sure if this is at all relevant to your problem, but my Land Rover 2.25 petrol with a Zenith 36IV carb would only run half decent with the choke knob pulled out a touch.....
So after reading various threads about this problem, I set about rebuilding the carb, in particular, sanding the carb halves flat on a piece of glass.
Runs lovely now! |
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