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1927 Morris Cowley Flatnose
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 250

PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2016 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Next I needed to make a puller to remove the clutch hub which was on a really tight taper and it came off (eventually) with a loud "crack".
The hub spline looks quite worn which i think explains why the clutch didnt free off very well in use.

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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 250

PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2016 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This was rather alarming to find.
It is the inverted tooth chain that the starter motor drives the crankshaft with to start the engine.
It revolves at engine speed all the time the engine is running.
It is joined by the little pin in the middle of the picture. The pin is retained with a split pin.
There was no split pin fitted and I didnt find one anywhere.
I have no idea how many miles its been like that and why it has not ever come apart.
I think It would have caused a lot of damage if it had parted while the engine was running.
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1165
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2016 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi.......is this engine a Hotchkiss? Which would explain all the metric threads?
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Penguin45



Joined: 28 Jul 2014
Posts: 316
Location: LBA

PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2016 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Morris bought Hotchkiss engine plant in 1923. Bolts were kept metric, but used Whitworth (from memory) heads.

P45.
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'67 Wolseley MkI 18/85, '70 Austin MkII 1800 The Landcrab Forum.
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 250

PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2016 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Started dismantling the engine today. It took me many hours to remove the cylinder head as it was rusted solid around the studs and completely immovable until I pulled the pistons out and attacked it from underneath, up the cylinder bores. i put some brass pads down the bores and drove it off from below with a long bar with the engine inverted .
It all looked pretty gloopy inside.
Measured the bores which are worn tapered a whopping 0.011" top to bottom.
Pistons are standard and the block has been linered.
Some of the rings were stuck in their grooves.



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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 247
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clutch looks like they couldnt decide whether it would be wet or dry plate. Quite a few cars in that period did use wet metal plate clutches. I would bet you can still get a new chain for the starter - count pitches, measure width, off to Renolds or an agent. I bought a 1933 Rover 12 cam chain off the shelf once, but that was a while ago. Rover v8 cam chains were similar inverted tooth type.
My 26 Rover 9 has it dynamo driven by chain like your starter, but my starter is a common Bendix drive type.
Best penetrating lube I have found is 1:1 acetone and ATF.
keep the pictures coming please!

Nice Micrometer!

jp 26 Rover 9
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bjacko



Joined: 28 Oct 2013
Posts: 118
Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2017 3:31 am    Post subject: Morris Threads Reply with quote

All Morris built engines had metric threads with whit/BSF heads and nuts right up to 1948 when the Minor and MO Oxford came out. This is as stated above because Morris bought the Hotchkiss factory which had moved to UK during WW1. To keep costs down Morris elected to keep the tooling hence metric threads. Note engines manufactured in other factories and fitted to Morris/MG cars had British threads e.g. Overhead cam Morris Minor of early thirties.
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 250

PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2017 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been collecting the new parts for the rebuild.
As JP928 says, the inverted tooth starter chain is available. I was able to purchase one from the owners club. It was the last one they had available . A bit pricey at 100.
I have managed to source everything else I need, new.
I was getting ready to send it all away to have the rods and mains re-metalled when I noticed that I have a cracked centre main bearing cap.
Its still in one peice but I can flex it and could easily snap it in 2.
So I have to find a new one before I can proceed.
So if anyone has one spare please let me know.

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jp928



Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 247
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 12:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I suspect its not unusual for centre mains (in 3 main shaft bearing engines) are problematic - my Rover is a 2 main engine. When Austin put a centre main in the 7s the people who raced them said they wouldnt go as hard as the 2 main roller bearing engines. They must have underestimated the bending in the centre!
jp 26 Rover 9
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 250

PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My thoughts were that on these old engines you can take up wear by removing shims from the split joint in both the mains and big ends. So it seemed likely to me that at some point someone has done it up with an uneven amount of shims on one side.
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 250

PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jp928 wrote:

keep the pictures coming please!


I wasn't sure that anyone was interested but as you have asked , here are some more pics of what Ive been doing the last few weeks.
As I mentioned, a lot of the screws and bolts on these cars are metric threads with whit heads. Mine are a mixture of old rusty chewed up originals and modern metric head items.
I decided to remake all these that go in the sump, bell housing and other ancillary parts in the original style.
Purists wont like the fact that I made them from stainless steel.

A new exhaust flange


Engine mounts in 1/2" BSF. If I make a long bolt I cant resist wasting the shank to save a bit of weight.




The holes in the handbrake trigger were worn so I made a new one.





Here are the new clutch components . I didnt make these. Laser cut. Nice.




Last edited by Miken on Fri Jan 27, 2017 11:25 pm; edited 4 times in total
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 250

PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some more parts I have made.
The original cast iron water inlet stub is quite corroded.
I decided to make a new one (and a spare) from alloy.
Then I worried that alloy and iron might encourage electrolytic corrosion so I had them hard anodised black.
Thinking more about it, It probably wont be an issue as they are insulated from everything else by the rubber rad hose at one end and a gasket at the other.



The brass magneto securing strap had a stripped thread in the steel insert.
I made a new insert from a tough bronze. The rivetting is deliberately
rough, like the originals. Thats my excuse and im sticking to it.



Here is the gearbox universal joint. Theer was a bit of play but I was able to reclaim it by flatting a small amount off the joint faces and reassembling after a bit of scraping-in of the bearings.
Then assembled with new HT bolts and nyloc nuts

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bjacko



Joined: 28 Oct 2013
Posts: 118
Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2017 4:46 am    Post subject: 1927 Cowley Reply with quote

Won't the water outlet attachment bolts make positive electrical contact? Nyloc nuts on a 1927 Morris??? One is not even in safety!
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 250

PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2017 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello bjacko,
To answer your questions:
The anodised coating is not conductive so im not anticipating a problem. I suppose I could have made a pattern and head a new one cast in iron. This was a quick solution that cost me nuppence.
Yes the Nyloc nuts are completely anachronistic (as are the HT socket head screws) but the entire universal joint and propshaft assembly runs inside the large ball and socket joint of the torque tube. No one will ever know. Originally it had single plain nuts. The nylocs are just to make double sure.
The Loctite thread-lock i used on them is also not of its time but it makes trippley sure (I may have just made that word up) . I really dont want it coming apart.
You make a good point about the short screw. I have no excuse and will change it.
Cheers,Mike
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Richard H



Joined: 03 Apr 2009
Posts: 2142
Location: Suffolk

PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2017 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice fabrication skills!
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1935 Standard Twelve
1953 Austin A40 Somerset
1958 Austin A55 Cambridge
1959 Austin A35
1980 Vauxhall Royale 2.8 auto
1987 Austin Maestro 1.3 L
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